The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

What are these little parts?

5K views 41 replies 8 participants last post by  Sienile 
#1 ·
I got a 2007 dodge grand caravan SXT, we just replaced the hub bearing assembly on the rear passenger side tire, and after all was said and done, we found these little pieces on the floor! What are they and how screwed am I that we did not put them back in? So far the van is driving just fine...
57740
 
See less See more
1
#4 ·
These parts are the hold down pins and clips that secure the brake shoes to the backing plate. Please do not drive this van until the brakes are correctly reassembled. This is a critical safety issue as it involves the braking system. Do not drive this van until it is properly repaired!!!
 
#5 ·
Brake parts left over = bad sign.

I figure you have rear disk brakes and these are the retainer pins for the "drum in hat" small brake shoes. (parking brake). You must be hearing some scraping sounds when driving.

Question: Were you doing this work during a snow storm? Something is amiss here. I'm guessing the holes in the backing plate for the pins to grab, are now rusted or too large to hold the pins, hence the reason they weren't put back. There are ways around that..
 
#6 ·
Yep, he's probably going to need the dust shield (#14 in above diagram) too. If those things fell out it's because they got twisted out or the holes in the dust shield are too big.

Given that OP's shirt says Rochester (most likely NY), there's a good chance his van is rusting to bits and all the associated brake parts are being held on by a few flakes of rust.
 
#7 ·
Given that OP's shirt says Rochester (most likely NY), there's a good chance his van is rusting to bits and all the associated brake parts are being held on by a few flakes of rust.
Yes, slight chances he is from Rochester but....


Do you know tourists buy souvenirs (including shirts) from places they visit?

Do you also know people rarely buy shirst that name the city where they live?

But then, I see snow on his profile pic.

I also see a lucky guy with toilet paper.
 
#8 ·
A quick glance through his profile says he lives in PA and works in NJ... Still the rust belt. Still very close to Rochester, NY.

You're trolling over some really insignificant stuff these days. Shouldn't you be attending one of those Coronavirus parties? Seems up your alley.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for all the input!

I think I'll try and just replace the whole part rather then put those rusty little screws back, I just need to replace the dust cover?

Yup, I'm in PA but Rochester is not far at all, same weather still, so yes theres a lot of rust I gotta deal with hah!
 
#12 ·
Thanks for all the input!

I think I'll try and just replace the whole part rather then put those rusty little screws back, I just need to replace the dust cover?

Yup, I'm in PA but Rochester is not far at all, same weather still, so yes theres a lot of rust I gotta deal with hah!
Those parts doesn't look that bad, but don't know about everything else.

Make sure those parts are not something P.O. left behind after replacement.
 
#11 ·
Those "rusty little screws" look ok and will still work, I would say. Will they hold in the holes they came out of, is the question. What condition is the backing plate in? You may have to beat around the holes a bit to close them up some, if not rusted too bad.

Did you pull those pins (screws) out with rotor removal, or twist them to remove them? If twisted, you should be ok.

The backing plate isn't cheap. It's more than a dust shield as it contains the caliper bracket on top and fits between the wheel hub and the axle. Yep, the hub has to come off to replace the backing plate.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sienile
#15 ·
One hole, each side, near hub, half way down. Hole in shoe will line up with the hole in the backing plate. Have to insert and then twist 90 degrees. Spring stays out and compresses.
 
#18 ·
Nope, they don't go behind the dust shield (aka caliper adapter plate).

You take a Philips screwdriver and insert the T shaped end into the hole in the shoes, line up with backing plate and once you've pushed it through the hole in the backing plate twist the screwdriver 90*...

If the shoes came off while pulling the hub, those are not 'extras from prior job' - they likely fell out when someone pried the shoes apart.
The retainers in pic don't look all that rusty, in our 'woods' surface rust doesn't count. Hopefully the backing plate is in OK shape. If not, one can make a washer to hold those hold down retainers in place.
If all else fails, the good news is that the new hub hasn't had the time to rust in place (don't wait too long) and should come out easily.

If you need a set of new springs and retainers, there are inexpensive aftermarket sets readily available...
 
#27 ·
I think I did it, hows it look?
Looks like someone had a bit of extra time or was following instructions in the service manual - there's no need to take the hub off or mess with parking brake cables.
You only needed to take the wheel, caliper and rotor off that would give you enough access to work on the parking brake hardware.

That rust doesn't look bad for a 17 y/o van from North East (even Mid Atlantic)...
 
#22 ·
You did well. (y)

The backing plate looks to be in good shape, not rusted badly at all..

Front shoe looks to be worn at the bottom.

Only one retainer spring at the top? Shouldn't there be a parallel one mounted to the backside?

The pin at the top (lever to pin interface), deserves a liberal application of high temperature anti seize as it tends to corrode and seize up at that location.

The adjuster at the bottom needs lubricant as well for sliding and turning. HT anti seize can be used there.

Shoe to backing plate contact points need lubricant. HT anti seize again.

I would brush some Fluid Film on the surfaces to slow down rusting.

Why did you remove the hub again? if you did?
 
#24 ·
Ha, ha LEVY, you don't know what rust is. When rusted badly the top edges would be frayed and gone. Those look sharp, as they should. Either that vehicle hasn't been driven in much salt or that backing plate has been replaced.
 
#26 ·
That's just some discoloration, Fluid Film to the rescue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LEVY
#28 ·
After doing this, it is WAY easier to remove the hub to install parts. Almost impossible to remove a seized bellcrank if you don't. I know he only needed to put in the shoe retainers, so no disassembly needed. Maybe he wanted to make sure everything was loose and lube it up so it stays working?

Some pics of parts from my rear passenger side of my AWD, since my brakes were rusting up.

57793


57794
 
#29 ·
Great pictures. How much exposed thread on your adjusters. 3/8" (10mm) worked for me. You're showing the passenger's side. The adjuster goes in the opposite direction on the driver's side.
 
#30 ·
Yup, passenger side. Just mirror image it for the driver's side (LHD).

The old set on the left shows the old adjustment. I used semi-new rotors with good drums inside, and adjusted them for slight contact, but still freely turn. Probably ended up close to what the old ones were, minus for the new friction material.
 
#32 ·
Correct, no adjusters and only enough top springs for one side (missing two). I kept clean-looking ones from the junkyard and wire brushed/coated with antisieze to rehab them.

I could get the upper springs off, but no way to get the backside one on again. I was surprised the hub wasn't rusted on tighter than it was! A couple of side wacks with a hammer (bolts removed) and then prying against the upper caliper bracket back and forth loosened it right up.
 
#33 ·
Correct, no adjusters and only enough top springs for one side (missing two). I kept clean-looking ones from the junkyard and wire brushed/coated with antisieze to rehab them.

I could get the upper springs off, but no way to get the backside one on again. I was surprised the hub wasn't rusted on tighter than it was! A couple of side wacks with a hammer (bolts removed) and then prying against the upper caliper bracket back and forth loosened it right up.
Needle nose vice grips for the springs.
 
#36 ·
Y'all are magicians or something, because there was no way to hold the end of the spring with a needle-nose pliers and bend it around the corner to the backside. I had to use the flat blade of a screwdriver on the hook of the spring to get it close, and finally when I got it in position and pushed onto the shoe, it barely caught the edge of the metal hole. That was scary. Then I had to find something to pry it forward to hook it properly to the shoe. That was the first side I did, even with the hub loosened for a little room. Removing the hub on the other side made it so much easier. The bolts weren't hard to get at with the sensor removed, and rotating the CV shaft for clearance. I used an 18mm impact socket, short extension and a breaker bar, all 1/2" drive. Different strokes for different folks.

A needle nose pliers with a 30* sideways bend in the jaws might have made it possible for me, but I don't have one of those.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jeepman
#37 ·
Y'all are magicians or something, because there was no way to hold the end of the spring with a needle-nose pliers and bend it around the corner to the backside.
Yes, it is possible, Jeepman suggested Needle nose "vice grips", not regular needle nose pliers.

Needle nose vice grips for the springs.
Then atoman added something:
Needle nose pliers for me, along with a loop of wire "tool" (to guide the spring in place and keep them from falling out)
 
#38 ·
I could hold it fine with the needle nose pliers, but no way to bend it towards the hole in the shoe; could only hold it back next to the backing plate. I can see how a wire bent around it to pull it through would help, but the hole in the shoe is kinda small. It was dark and getting cold, so I just did whatever worked and luckily got it. Hopefully never have to do it again.

Love the masked avatar Levy. Had a good chuckle the first time I saw it! :LOL:
 
  • Like
Reactions: LEVY
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top