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Well lubricated

5K views 46 replies 16 participants last post by  IAfarmer 
#1 ·
I have not had my '16 long. A couple of auto industry people have warned me to be careful not to go long between oil changes if I expect the vehicle to last.
I got 263,000 out of a Ford Fusion with NO issues. I am anal about oil changes anyway.
My question is if I am running full synthetic oil how frequently should I change oil? With the Ford I changed every 3000 on conventional oil. If I run full synthetic would it be wise to stretch it out to changing faithfully every 5000 miles?
 
#2 ·
5k on synthetic, along with changing the filter with your 5k changes will be great.

Synthetic oils can run well beyond 5k exchanges. People will send samples to a lab like Blackstone to have it scientifically analyzed.

The Blackstone reports will often advise the car owner to extend their oil changes in excess of 7k miles.

Clean, modern oil, with a new filter won’t ever hurt your engine.
 
#6 ·
So, you actually have Mobil 1 unextended performance oil. :)
 
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#7 ·
I target 10,000 km / 6,200 miles using Valvoline Daily Protection conventional oil*,. changing the FRAM TG 11665 filter (rated at 24,000 km/15,000 miles), every other oil change.

*Valvoline Daily Protection contains some synthetic per: US_Val_DailyProtection_MO_EN.pdf - DocuSign CLM

62187
 
#8 ·
i saw a video talking about modern engine design and oil sludging; modern engines have such tight tolerances and low capacity to deal with varnish buildup that full synthetic on frequent change schedule is required.

made sense, in particular to modern low tension, low friction oil rings he was using as an example. that oil varnish causing binding in the rings results in oil burning.
 
#12 ·
i saw a video talking about modern engine design and oil sludging; modern engines have such tight tolerances and low capacity to deal with varnish buildup that full synthetic on frequent change schedule is required.

made sense, in particular to modern low tension, low friction oil rings he was using as an example. that oil varnish causing binding in the rings results in oil burning.
Every engine, starting out cold and for about 5 minutes thereafter, on a winter's day, has sluggish oil in comparison to when it has warmed up. So sluggish that the oil filter is in bypass mode. That's one consideration.

Another consideration is that as the thinner, less robust motor oils are becoming specified more often (think CAFE), it's the additive package that has to be redesigned (a challenge) to pick up the slack. Conventional, or synthetic base oils, are just carriers of the additive package. The additive package is the big performance component of the oil.
A well-formulated conventional engine oil can outperform a poorly formulated “synthetic” engine oil.
That's an interesting quote coming from Royal Purple.

Synthetics have their benefits, even though the hype is marketing overload. In fact, they aren't truly "synthetic" but highly refined petroleum products. True synthetics, using Group IV base oils, are out there and some manufacturers specify those. Check out their Pour Points and see the difference for cold weather operation.

Are all Synthetic Oil Groups the Same? Group III vs IV vs V
The point is, a motor oil can’t be judged solely by its base oils – you need to take the entire formulation into account.
So, look to the additive package to keep the engine from sludging up.
 
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#10 ·
I let my 2016 go until the light came on once, at around 15,300 km, changed it at 15,467 km.. Average km per hour for that oil change was 62.6 with about 50% of the time on the highway, the rest being secondary roads and some city driving.

Actually had 5W-30 Pennzoil synthetic oil in it for that test. I normally use Valvoline Conventional at 10,000 km.
 
#16 ·
Give it a treat and use 5W-30. Your engine will love you for it. :)
 
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#18 ·
My next oil change will happen this Fall. Costco 5-30 full synthetic oil ($71 for 20 quarts, delivered).
Membership NOT required!


 
#21 ·
5W-30. Good choice.

Many consumers don't trust the Manufacturers' oil change interval, and go shorter, even if they use synthetic, so why do they trust 5W-20 oil, out of a barrel, when 5W-30 is also acceptable plus more robust (think engine longevity).
 
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#19 ·
The Costco oil is $30 for 2x5 quart bottles and $55 for 4x5 quart bottles at the store, with a membership... I spend enough that I get refunded my whole exec membership cost each year. I probably save the whole annual membership cost on gasoline alone.
 
#22 ·
I worked part time at a truck dealership and the chase vehicle was usually an 8-10 year old minivan. They changed oil maybe twice a year with conventional motor oil and drove those vehicles over 300,000 miles.
My conclusion is that if you like using premium synthetic oil in your car..Enjoy!
 
#23 ·
I worked part time at a truck dealership and the chase vehicle was usually an 8-10 year old minivan. They changed oil maybe twice a year with conventional motor oil and drove those vehicles over 300,000 miles.
My conclusion is that if you like using premium synthetic oil in your car..Enjoy!
Conventional oil is fading out quickly as if I am correct only 10w is conventional and 5w is a blend.
 
#29 ·
Ha, I've a pal who utters the name 'Valvoline" with the feel of an incantation.

6-7,000 miles has consistently left my vehicles some reserve oil life (syn. or conv.)
RockAuto's $11 kits are what I used for data.

I'll never play the 20,000 mile OCI game because costs for analysis along the way would be too high.
What happens to my super oil when, at 15,000 miles, I resume city driving? 18,000 when Winter sets in?
Up with with conserving resources but our "engine rinse water" is recycled . Wash with clean water, no?
Ridding an engine of smelly, revolting, schmutzy, blackened lube is prudent in my opinion.
You're circulating saturated, aging dirt in your super oil for over 20K ?
 
#31 ·
I'll never play the 20,000 mile OCI game because costs for analysis along the way would be too high.
What happens to my super oil when, at 15,000 miles, I resume city driving? 18,000 when Winter sets in?

Up with with conserving resources but our "engine rinse water" is recycled . Wash with clean water, no?
Ridding an engine of smelly, revolting, schmutzy, blackened lube is prudent in my opinion.
You're circulating saturated, aging dirt in your super oil for over 20K ?
I don't buy the 20,000 miles oil to save money, as a matter of fact I change it between 3,000 and 5,000 miles.

I buy it for peace of mind.

People might see it as a waste of money, not me, I use it because I can't afford an engine break down on not so friendly territory.
 
#32 ·
"peace of mind" might result if you, just once, did a used oil analysis. Modern oils can easily last 5-10,000 miles and provide more protection than brand new oils from the 1960's. Do you change spark plugs every 10k like we used to do?

I spent years on a Ford Truck forum when I had my E150, and there was a guy who ran a small fleet of Ford E vans; he had 4 vans over 1.3 million miles (on EACH van) at one time (with 5.4 or 4.6 engines which have long cam chains and plastic tensioners like the Pentastar), never had been inside the engines. He had his drivers try to get oil changed every 10k miles but admitted that sometimes they didn't get around to it until 20k miles. Used a mechanic down the street to change oil and didn't even know what brand they were using. (And he showed some photos of spark plugs that he ran out to 300k miles...and still ran the engines without problems.)

It's not motor oil that will cause your car to break down in a bad neighborhood; it is a bad tire, a dead battery, a broken suspension part, an electrical or fuel system problem, or an accident. I live in the Detroit area and my wife and I both worked in the city, with my wife working late hours at a TV station. I always made sure she had good tires, changed out her batteries after 5-6 years as a pre-emptive move, etc.
 
#33 ·
"peace of mind" might result if you, just once, did a used oil analysis. Modern oils can easily last 5-10,000 miles and provide more protection than brand new oils from the 1960's. Do you change spark plugs every 10k like we used to do?

It's not motor oil that will cause your car to break down in a bad neighborhood; it is a bad tire, a dead battery, a broken suspension part, an electrical or fuel system problem, or an accident. I live in the Detroit area and my wife and I both worked in the city, with my wife working late hours at a TV station. I always made sure she had good tires, changed out her batteries after 5-6 years as a pre-emptive move, etc.
You are 100% wrong.

First, I use 20,000 miles oil, but change it every 3-4 K miles, why? Because I can.

Your oil analysis is worthless for the average person, other than bragging on forums, it is completely worthless. If I want an oil analysis, then I go straight to the source.

A bad battery will not let me stranded on a not so friendly "territory". I never mentioned a bad neighborhood.

A bad suspension part will not let me stranded either.

I now change tires at least every six months regarding the thread wear. I also change windshield at least twice a year.

Detroit area is very safe compared to the places I drive.

I never, ever change battery as preventive measure, that's just a waste of resources.

That guy who supposedly ran millions of miles on each vehicle can't compare to my needs.

Now, I can change oil as often as I want, it is my money, my safety and thankfully I can.
 
#34 · (Edited)
You can't drive a vehicle after a ball joint separates or a tie rod breaks. You might want to get more familiar with suspension and steering systems.

If I plan to own a car for ~10 years and 150k miles I assume that I will need to replace the battery at least once, so if I change it out at 6 years, I don't see where I am wasting resources over the lifetime of the car.

On that topic, I am very confused about why throwing away good motor oil at 3k miles is not a waste of resources.

And I do not understand what you are saying about "my" oil analysis or "your source". I don't do oil analysis, but if I was spending money changing expensive synthetic oil at 3k miles, it would be interesting to see how that oil looks in a full analysis.

Absolutely do whatever you want with your vans but I think your singular focus on oil is not well founded given the quality of today's motor oils and the quality of modern engine construction and design. Earlier in this thread I posted a link to a Ram Promaster with 626k miles on a Pentastar with 8k mile oil changes.
 
#35 ·
Others might undersrand my point.

I will never get a broken tie rod much less a ball joint. My vehicles are all well maintained (including not changing ATF, ever).

Oil analysis is worthless unless you do it at least once between every oil change.

150,000 miles is the equivalent to one year to me, not 10 years.

I'm not throwing away good oil, I'm using it.

I recently installed a whole house (and then more) water purification system (around $40,000.00 USD system). It uses two-three gallons of water per each gallon of purified water it produces.

Some say it is a lot of wasted water. Is not wasted water, it is "used" water.

Same with my oil, I use six quarts of oil every month or so to keep my engine in top condition.
 
#39 ·
I called out ExxonMobil on there 20k oil through an email. I asked if I put it in my van would they warranty any oil related issues. Their comment was only if manufacturer recommended specs were on oil and intervals was in manual. In other words no (they will stand behind 20k oil changes). Oil might have enough additives to make it but my driving is different than most.
 
#40 ·
You don't need to call Mobil, everything is in black and white:

Protects for up to 20,000 miles between oil changes*

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 advanced full synthetic motor oil is designed to deliver outstanding engine protection and protect critical engine parts for up to 20,000 miles between oil changes.*

Nothing outperforms Mobil 1 in overall performance, a motor oil which comes as standard equipment in many different vehicle models, including select high-performance vehicles.
Mobil 1™ Extended Performance Motor Oil Limited 20,000-Mile or One-Year Warranty
What the Warranty Covers
ExxonMobil Fuels and Lubricants Company, a division of Exxon Mobil Corporation (“ExxonMobil”), provides this limited warranty to the purchasers who use Mobil 1 Extended Performance lubricant in their vehicles. This limited warranty covers the lubricant and critical engine parts lubricated by the lubricant. ExxonMobil warrants its lubricants to be free from defects and that the lubricant you purchased will protect your vehicle’s critical engine parts from oil-related failure.
Be advised that if your vehicle is covered by a warranty, you should follow the vehicle’s oil life sensor or the oil change interval recommended in your owner’s manual to avoid a disruption in your vehicle warranty. Follow your owner’s manual if the vehicle is operated in any of the following severe services: racing or commercial applications including taxis, limousines, etc.; frequent towing or hauling; extremely dusty or dirty conditions; or under excessive idling conditions.
What the Warranty Does Not Cover
This Limited Warranty excludes:
  • Mobil lubricants used in mechanically deficient equipment as a result of abnormal operation; negligence; abuse; damage from casualty, shipment or accident; or equipment modification done without written authorization from the original equipment manufacturer (“OEM”).
  • Situations where the OEM-required lubricant standards do not match those stated by ExxonMobil without written approval from ExxonMobil.
  • Mobil lubricants that have been used in conjunction with any other product or additive that has not been authorized for use by ExxonMobil.
  • Failure of equipment due to a pre-existing condition that is unrelated to the use of Mobil lubricants.
  • Repair or replacement of equipment due to normal wear.
What the period of coverage is
The Mobil 1 Extended Performance limited warranty is valid for 20,000 miles or your vehicle’s OEM recommended oil change interval, whichever is longer.

Additional requirements for Mobil 1 Extended Performance include: 1) Oils must be put in service not later than five (5) years from the date of purchase; and 2) an oil change must be completed every twelve (12) months.
What we will do to correct problems
ExxonMobil will replace any lubricant that is defective. In addition, if there is equipment failure due to the lubricant you purchased, and the engine was serviceable at the time the oil was installed, ExxonMobil will repair any equipment damage directly caused by a defect or malfunction of the lubricant, at no cost to you, provided that the lubricant was selected and maintained in accordance with specifications of the OEM or the written instructions (which includes product packaging) of ExxonMobil.

 
#41 ·
Good luck with oil company warranties, there's too many ways to weasel out. Hear of anyone getting compensated by an oil company for engine failure recently? ever?

I think I remember a story, a long time ago, .................. :)
 
#42 ·
Good luck with oil company warranties, there's too many ways to weasel out. Hear of anyone getting compensated by an oil company for engine failure recently? ever?

I think I remember a story, a long time ago, .................. :)
Yes, back on 1992 engine on my 1992 camaro failed due to Castrol oil failure.

Few days after an oil change, engine failed, started making noise. It was weird because at that time I changed oil every 2500 miles.

I was using Quaker State oil, but this time I used Castrol. Luckily I still had the empty oil cans. I was living in a ranch at that time, trash needed to be burned.

I checked inside and I saw a lot of sediment in each can.

Called Castrol and was told that it was not sediment but additives, that I was supposed to shake each can before open it.

What? 🤪

Well, after some talking, I was asked to take my car to a Chevy dealer, I did.

Chevy negotiate with Castrol and a couple of days later a brand new engine was installed, free of charge.

Castrol pay for it (and probably for a few more).

Needless to say, no more Castrol for me, ever.
 
#44 ·
The oil filter cap for my 2016 torques up just fine. The torque is actually on the cap - 25 Nm (18.4 ft.lb), not much to worry about. The weaker setup on some previous years may have had a problem.

Once contact is made, 8 ft.lb (96 in. lb.) of torque would likely do, just considering the "O' rings sealing on their own. They call for 10+ more for some unexplained reason. They should know best.

If I were changing oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles, I would leave a 15,000 mile rated filter on for 4 oil changes so as not to mess around torqueing up by guess. :)
 
#45 ·
The oil filter cap for my 2016 torques up just fine. The torque is actually on the cap - 25 Nm (18.4 ft.lb), not much to worry about. The weaker setup on some previous years may have had a problem.

Once contact is made, 8 ft.lb (96 in. lb.) of torque would likely do, just considering the "O' rings sealing on their own. They call for 10+ more for some unexplained reason. They should know best.

If I were changing oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles, I would leave a 15,000 mile rated filter on for 4 oil changes so as not to mess around torqueing up by guess. :)
For now.

I never torque the filter cap, as soon as it touches I stop turning. Always lubricate the thread and the o-ring, never gets loose or leaks (never breaks either).

I always use high quality new oil to lubricate the threads and o-ring, unlike some who recommends to use used oil. 😁
 
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