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I have not had my '16 long. A couple of auto industry people have warned me to be careful not to go long between oil changes if I expect the vehicle to last.
I got 263,000 out of a Ford Fusion with NO issues. I am anal about oil changes anyway.
My question is if I am running full synthetic oil how frequently should I change oil? With the Ford I changed every 3000 on conventional oil. If I run full synthetic would it be wise to stretch it out to changing faithfully every 5000 miles?
 

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5k on synthetic, along with changing the filter with your 5k changes will be great.

Synthetic oils can run well beyond 5k exchanges. People will send samples to a lab like Blackstone to have it scientifically analyzed.

The Blackstone reports will often advise the car owner to extend their oil changes in excess of 7k miles.

Clean, modern oil, with a new filter won’t ever hurt your engine.
 

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You'll be fine with regular oil every 5-6k miles.
 

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With Mobil 1 extended performance you could go up to 20,000 miles, but I still go 3,000 miles or less.
 

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I always do 5k for full synthetic, 4k on semi-synthetic, and 3k on conventional.
 

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With Mobil 1 extended performance you could go up to 20,000 miles, but I still go 3,000 miles or less.
So, you actually have Mobil 1 unextended performance oil. :)
 
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I target 10,000 km / 6,200 miles using Valvoline Daily Protection conventional oil*,. changing the FRAM TG 11665 filter (rated at 24,000 km/15,000 miles), every other oil change.

*Valvoline Daily Protection contains some synthetic per: US_Val_DailyProtection_MO_EN.pdf - DocuSign CLM

62187
 

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i saw a video talking about modern engine design and oil sludging; modern engines have such tight tolerances and low capacity to deal with varnish buildup that full synthetic on frequent change schedule is required.

made sense, in particular to modern low tension, low friction oil rings he was using as an example. that oil varnish causing binding in the rings results in oil burning.
 

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I let my 2016 go until the light came on once, at around 15,300 km, changed it at 15,467 km.. Average km per hour for that oil change was 62.6 with about 50% of the time on the highway, the rest being secondary roads and some city driving.

Actually had 5W-30 Pennzoil synthetic oil in it for that test. I normally use Valvoline Conventional at 10,000 km.
 

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2 kinds of customers get engines at my shop. Those that don't pay attention to oil changes and those that let the light tell them when to do it. You've been warned.
 

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i saw a video talking about modern engine design and oil sludging; modern engines have such tight tolerances and low capacity to deal with varnish buildup that full synthetic on frequent change schedule is required.

made sense, in particular to modern low tension, low friction oil rings he was using as an example. that oil varnish causing binding in the rings results in oil burning.
Every engine, starting out cold and for about 5 minutes thereafter, on a winter's day, has sluggish oil in comparison to when it has warmed up. So sluggish that the oil filter is in bypass mode. That's one consideration.

Another consideration is that as the thinner, less robust motor oils are becoming specified more often (think CAFE), it's the additive package that has to be redesigned (a challenge) to pick up the slack. Conventional, or synthetic base oils, are just carriers of the additive package. The additive package is the big performance component of the oil.
A well-formulated conventional engine oil can outperform a poorly formulated “synthetic” engine oil.
That's an interesting quote coming from Royal Purple.

Synthetics have their benefits, even though the hype is marketing overload. In fact, they aren't truly "synthetic" but highly refined petroleum products. True synthetics, using Group IV base oils, are out there and some manufacturers specify those. Check out their Pour Points and see the difference for cold weather operation.

Are all Synthetic Oil Groups the Same? Group III vs IV vs V
The point is, a motor oil can’t be judged solely by its base oils – you need to take the entire formulation into account.
So, look to the additive package to keep the engine from sludging up.
 
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i saw a video talking about modern engine design and oil sludging; modern engines have such tight tolerances and low capacity to deal with varnish buildup that full synthetic on frequent change schedule is required.

made sense, in particular to modern low tension, low friction oil rings he was using as an example. that oil varnish causing binding in the rings results in oil burning.
Not true.

Don't believe everything you see over internet.

Modern engines have so much lubrication capabilities. Most vehicles now have oil pumps that work in stages.

Most modern engines work on low oil pressure (on purpose) at idle, to save gas. As rpm's increase, second stage kicks in to add more oil pressure (and flow) to the equation.
 

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I use Synthetic in my 18. Was doing 6 month since severe but since November I have 2600 miles and 120 hours so I will go yearly unless driving changes. Right now I have Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic 5w20 and this will be my oil going forward.
 

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I use Synthetic in my 18. Was doing 6 month since severe but since November I have 2600 miles and 120 hours so I will go yearly unless driving changes. Right now I have Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic 5w20 and this will be my oil going forward.
Give it a treat and use 5W-30. Your engine will love you for it. :)
 
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My next oil change will happen this Fall. Costco 5-30 full synthetic oil ($71 for 20 quarts, delivered).
Membership NOT required!


 

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The Costco oil is $30 for 2x5 quart bottles and $55 for 4x5 quart bottles at the store, with a membership... I spend enough that I get refunded my whole exec membership cost each year. I probably save the whole annual membership cost on gasoline alone.
 
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