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Discussion Starter #1
Dear community,
my name is Falco and I just bought a 2004 Grand Voyager 3.3 with 165.000 km on the clock in New Zealand for travelling the country.
Unfortunately, the previous owner did not tell me about the following issue when I bought the car (unseen and paid in advance):
The car vibrates when shifting in drive at idle revolutions and at slow speeds when accelerating. There are no vibrations in reverse or in neutral or parking. Strangely, when shifting to parking and the car moves a little until the parking brake engages, vibrations start also in parking mode but unly then. If the car does not move in "P", no vobrations are felt.

I read a lot now about engine and transmission mounts (4 pcs) but what do you think? Is it most likely the mounts or the transmission itself?

Looking forward hearing from you.
 

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Drivin' Maniac
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Most likely transmission mounts. Many owners here have replaced them.

Good preventative maintenance: If the van is new to you and you don't have records, drop the trans pan and change the filter within. Refill with ATF+4 synthetic blend, Chrysler-spec fluid. (Hopfully it is available where you are)
 

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mine did this, and i had all 4 mounts replaced

very smooth now

you should try to figure out what's causing the vibration itself from the engine, but if you don't want to spend time troubleshooting the easy solution is there
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Carbuff2 and Baron,
thanks for your valuable answers. They kept me from selling the van again! Yesterday, I started travelling and I have to say that it is a great car! Very comfortable driving. Maybe the previous owner thought he must sell the car bearing in mind it has serious transmission problems. So I bought it for appr. 1500 USD.
I'll try to get the transmission mount first but think this is going to be a hassle here in NZ. This car very rare.

I mentioned that there is too much oil in the transmission: about 0,4 inch above full when hot. A mechanic said that this is no problem. I think it is. What is your opinion?
 

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Drivin' Maniac
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Do you perform your own repairs? If not can your shop obtain parts from out of the country? (I have Australian friends who commonly obtain car parts from Europe or the UK)

A little extra transmission fluid is OK, but first verify that you are measuring it correctly on the dipstick. The engine/trans should be warmed up (10 minutes of driving) and you should check it while idling. If you check it with the engine OFF it will read high, especially if warm. Right, @Jeepman ?
 

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Checking transmission fluid level can be a pain, especially when the fluid is hot (per 15 mile driving requirement). Check your transmission level cold and see what the reading is. Much easier. There should be hot and cold cross hatched areas on the dipstick. What else does your dipstick tell you, both sides?

More on transmission fluid level checking: Quick Fixes The fluid level needs to be within the appropriate cross hatched area, not necessarily to the top of it.

Do you have an Owners Manual? If not, you can download one free from a Chrysler site.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for your very quick reply.

The engine was hot after a 250 mile trip but I measured the oil level with the engine not running, so I'll do it again.
Does anyone have a part no. for the transmission mount?
 

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Thanks for your very quick reply.

The engine was hot after a 250 mile trip but I measured the oil level with the engine not running, so I'll do it again.
Does anyone have a part no. for the transmission mount?

Try rockauto.com for lots of parts and part numbers.
 

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make sure to get MOPAR only for the mounts, aftermarket ones are low quality, may not fit right, and will wear out quickly
 

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3rd gen > all others
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Bad experiences with aftermarket mounts? That's what I plan on getting for my van, since they are a lot cheaper and one has a full rubber option instead of hydraulic. I want to get the Pioneer SOLID rubber front mount, Westar transmission mount, and DEA/Marmon front motor and center transmission mounts through Rock Auto for roughly $65. My donor motor's mounts were all shot, and my van has nearly 200K so the mounts are tired anyway.

Wouldn't be a bad thing to clean the throttle body and idle air passage. I've heard that can lead to rough idling when dirty.
 

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Aftermarket mounts in our case ? Bad idea. A few bucks for DEA/Anchor it's not what you want to put in your car. Trust me, I bought 3 brand new OE Mopar mounts ( rear, trans side and right one - hydro) from all 4 mounts and I had replace them by myself. I'm almost happy with my engine is shaking just enough to feel it.
P.S. I spend less than 300 bucks looking on ebay etc.
 

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3rd gen > all others
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I've used Anchor before with no problems, but if Mopar is only a few bucks more I'll go with that. I'm still set on getting the solid rubber option mount, as I've seen too many hydraulic mounts fail. The only engine shaking I feel now is because of a worn cam lobe/lifter not pumping up completely due to a slipped cam bearing. Because I would have to pull the engine to repair it, I'm just swapping in a known good running one to save time. Changing the mounts because I'll already have the engine out and probably shouldn't trust the original mounts (even though they seem okay). Preventative replacement.
 

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I do the job, because I know that rubber is getting old and even when you look at the mounts from outside, it's look like a new one sometimes, but after taking it out - pcs of junk, rubber is gone. Chrysler has few different rubber types for each mount ( eg. for gasoline engines vs diesels ), but mount shape is still the same. Here in EU we have a colour marks on each OE mount that indicates is it for 3.3/3.8 or 2.5/2.8 CRD or AWD. Unfortunately some of them are not available any more from Chrysler.
 
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