Without taking off the lower crossmember, it is possible to remove the cover but placing it back on will be difficult due to limited clearance. If you decide to try it, plan on spending a lot of time doing it...
Also, take a very close look at the cover - they are known to rust trough and leak (more common than factory silicone leak)
Thank you, from what I could see the cover looks to be in good shape, Im wondering if there would be enough clearance to remove the cover completely so I could clean it or if it only moves back with not enough clearance to remove completely
Are the cover bolts loose? Mine used to loosen up and seep/leak on my 2000.
I finally fixed my diff cover on my 2000 (3rd gen) a couple of years ago. I was able to get the cover off and on by removing the thru bolt of the front motor mount and jacking up the front of the engine to "roll" the engine/transmission back (at the top) to give more room between the cover and the aluminum cradle. I had also dropped my pan and filter first to get rid of any fluid that would keep spilling into the diff area.
I cleaned all the old silicone from the case and the cover, degreased and all. I used ultra black rtv silicone to seal it on. I washed all the bolts in gasoline, dried them/let air dry and wrapped each one 1 1/2 times with white teflon tape to act as thread locker. Put it all together and snugged the bolts down, and let it sit overnight. Did the same with the trans pan the next day, but I used the rubber gasket and adhesive instead of silicone. Refilled with new ATF+4 and it hasn't leaked a drop ever since.
I know the 4th gen van has emissions stuff down in that area, so that will likely get in the way. Hopefully my setup technique still gives you some room to work with. I used a 10mm combination wrench, and 1/4" drive sockets and ratchet. Best of luck!
I wish it was that simple for me, I have a messed up landlord that keeps telling me about the 3 inch spot that my van makes every night, you see he just black topped the parking lot and now hes threatning to have me park 3 blocks away from were I live cause of the spot on his prescious parking lot, So im in a position were I have to not have a single drop coming from the van, Normally I would do the same as you and just add alittle ATF 4 and forget it, I only have to add about 1/2 quart every 3 to 4 weeks or so.
from SD Truck Springs, and now my headlights are too low when on.The owners manual shows how to remove the headlight assembly and the bulbs, but I haven't found how to adjust the beams. The three screws used to hold the assemblies are a given, and that just leaves the little screw/bolt in the...
I have a question I have a 2007 T&C LX and I changed the plugs wires and changed the coil pack twice The #1 coil pack has no fire someone told me that the pcm or ecm is bad and needs to be changed As soon as I get to 3k rpm it bucks and shakes I thought it might be a crank sensor Any ideas or help
I just bought the Haynes manual, and the Chilton. Which have the same pictures, and are nearly identical. I had to return the Chilton because it was used near perfume or cologne, and I couldn't breathe near it. I'll be buying a new copy if I can find one.
Anyhow! I'm also looking...
My 2007 T/ C 3.3 Litre original engine and transmission keeps going strong at 235,000 miles. The only I have done is use Shell Rotella synthetic oil and keep dropping the tranny pan and changing fluid. Plugs and wires a few times. Ruining great!
I am having a very strange problem with my 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan power outlet. The output voltage on the power outlet with no load is about 12.4 volts, and the radio works fine (the radio is tied to that line).
Here is the problem: When I connect my GPS to the 12 volt outlet (the one that...