The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

21 - 28 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I was going to boil the thermostat, but somehow it didn't seem necessary!:Wow1:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,028 Posts
My dad's '00 T&C uses the orange coolant. Even has a badge and a sticker stating that on the overflow bottle and by the radiator cap. I wonder if I should switch it with the green one that fits all makes.
Is the orange coolant from the factory or did someone switch to it? I would always stick with the factory recommended type coolants, so if it came orange from the factory, I'd stick with that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
I'm going to replace the radiator in my 96 T&C tomorrow. Here is a list of parts I have. Let me know if there is something else I should replace at the same time.

radiator
radiator cap
thermostat
upper hose
lower hose
new coolant
Consider rad fan unit as well, it comes out as a unit when you remove the rad and as these fans are notorious for eventually seizing up why go to all that work and not replace it? Only about $100 or less from Dorman, pretty cheap for peace of mind. If the fan does seize up you are in for a world of hurt - overheating, possibly blown head gaskets and also it will take out the fan pulse-width controller module which is a very expensive dealer-only part, which requires removing the rad/fan unit again to get at it to replace. Ask me how I know all of this!
 

·
3rd gen > all others
Joined
·
3,408 Posts
^^You're replying to an 11 year old thread. Van has probably been junked by now.

Also, why replace fans that are working? I wouldn't trust Dorman over a good used unit from the junkyard. Plus there are two fans, and I doubt both would burn out at the same time. I had one fan seize up on my 2000, the one closest to the exhaust manifold. It started smelling burnt first, that hot electrical smell. I test spun the blades by hand and could see that one was hard to spin. It finally blew the square 40amp fuse, so I unplugged that motor and drove it on the one working fan to get a used fan unit from the junkyard. I also replaced the fan controller module which was easy to get at, under the driver's headlight. They were moved there in 1999 or 2000. I got a new fan controller at autozone for $54. I also replaced the original copper radiator (rotten fins) with a newer aluminum one from the junkyard, along with different hoses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
^^You're replying to an 11 year old thread. Van has probably been junked by now.

Also, why replace fans that are working? I wouldn't trust Dorman over a good used unit from the junkyard. Plus there are two fans, and I doubt both would burn out at the same time. I had one fan seize up on my 2000, the one closest to the exhaust manifold. It started smelling burnt first, that hot electrical smell. I test spun the blades by hand and could see that one was hard to spin. It finally blew the square 40amp fuse, so I unplugged that motor and drove it on the one working fan to get a used fan unit from the junkyard. I also replaced the fan controller module which was easy to get at, under the driver's headlight. They were moved there in 1999 or 2000. I got a new fan controller at autozone for $54. I also replaced the original copper radiator (rotten fins) with a newer aluminum one from the junkyard, along with different hoses.
^^You're replying to an 11 year old thread. Van has probably been junked by now.

Also, why replace fans that are working? I wouldn't trust Dorman over a good used unit from the junkyard. Plus there are two fans, and I doubt both would burn out at the same time. I had one fan seize up on my 2000, the one closest to the exhaust manifold. It started smelling burnt first, that hot electrical smell. I test spun the blades by hand and could see that one was hard to spi n. It finally blew the square 40amp fuse, so I unplugged that motor and drove it on the one working fan to get a used fan unit from the junkyard. I also replaced the fan controller module which was easy to get at, under the driver's headlight. They were moved there in 1999 or 2000. I got a new fan controller at autozone for
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
FYI - Dorman supplies auto components to many suppliers, for example a couple of little outfits you may have heard about - NAPA & RockAuto.
As far as replacing the fans before they both quit and incurring untold possible damage from overheating, chalk that up to me favouring Proactive Maintenance, as opposed to sitting around and letting the fuse box point out the problem.
 

·
3rd gen > all others
Joined
·
3,408 Posts
Dorman parts are crap - sometimes. If it's a critical part, I no longer trust it. I had a brand new brake master cylinder fail and lock up my front brakes, costing me all new front brakes, hubs, and making my engine run hot and losing a day of work.

I didn't sit around waiting for a problem to show itself. I could smell the hot electrical smell, but couldn't track down what was causing it. Both fans were working at the time. I finally noticed one not working, looked in the fuse box and saw the blown fuse. That's when I spun the fan blades and found the stiff fan that failed. That's when the hot electrical smell thing clicked in my head, when I realized it was a fan motor going bad. I never had one fail before, so it was a learning experience. I noticed the rusty remains of a metal heat shield on the back of the motor, and surmised the exhaust heat in close proximity of the motor helped it to fail. I had a $9/hr job at the time, so a used unit for $30 was better than $150 for a new one (would have been 1/4 of a month's rent!). It's 8 years later and I still have that same fan and radiator in that van, working fine.
 
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
Top