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Discussion Starter #1
Not much info available on the AWD. Some say you have to remove the transfer/PTO but we didn't. Cost us a lot of time figuring it out. Here is how we did it.
Additional steps for AWD model...
Basically the PTO stub shaft (rear drive) interference requires lowering the engine/transmission down and disconnecting a fitting on the rack to gain clearance so the steering rack can clear the cradle.

Disconnect the left sway bar link and lower control arm pivots (not ball joint) (long pivot bolt barely clears engine) and rotate control arm away so the left tie rod can drop down and clear sway bar and control arm..
Disconnect crossover flare fitting on the right (passenger side) end of the steering rack (loop in pipe won't clear the engine cradle).
To drop engine down for clearance, pull back plastic Splash wheel well shield and remove long pivot Bolt from driver side (left) motor mount.
Remove the rear mount heat shield, pivot bolt and back out the three bolts that attach the mount to the engine (difficult). It helps to drop the front end of the rear drive shaft to give yourself elbow room.
Note: Although we did the rear motor mount all from underneath if you remove the cowl plenum / windshield wiper unit access to the rear motor mount might be easier.
Then you can wiggle the steering gear out through the left, driver side.
 

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Voted most useless member
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It's a PAIN. And I have to tell ya, I keep my engine hoist around simply cuz its faster to just take the whole engine out when you have to do something like that.

I wish it was a joke, but I can pull and engine in an hour, have all the new parts I need, bolt them on and take care of whatever else needs to be done and then get it all buttoned up in 12 hours or less while getting anything I need to get done.

I figured I might as well go balls out. I'm not getting rid of my van ever.
 

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Stuck with a 3rd Gen
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It's a PAIN. And I have to tell ya, I keep my engine hoist around simply cuz its faster to just take the whole engine out when you have to do something like that.

I wish it was a joke, but I can pull and engine in an hour, have all the new parts I need, bolt them on and take care of whatever else needs to be done and then get it all buttoned up in 12 hours or less while getting anything I need to get done.

I figured I might as well go balls out. I'm not getting rid of my van ever.
Don't mean to butt in, imickey! What's the size of your engine hoist, 1 ton, 2 ton or other sizes?

I have a Harbor Freight 1 ton hoist. Bought it for my now junked Dodge Neon. It was OK for that. Guess too lightweight for the Chrysler minivan motor and tranny?

Also, do you need to remove the radiator and other stuff to pull the motor and tranny out?

I know you need to remove the cowl and wiper tray. :)
 

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I can understand. Our 2002 has AWD. I replaced the high-pressure power steering line and it took a few hours to figure how to work it past the narrow passage to the steering rack and get wrenches in their, while routing it over the rear drive-shaft correctly. Without AWD, it would have been a 10 min job. I hate thinking of removing the power steering rack. Might be a job to take to a shop and hope they estimate it for a 2WD van and are then committed to that. Of course I also removed the wiper cowl, since about the only way to get at the p.s. pump.
 
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