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Interesting,
I understood that it was able to run on the ether starting fluid but not on its own fuel supply.
Running on ether indicated that the ignition was working and pointed to fuel.

Review / inspect the work you did to replace the ignition switch.

RECAP: It is my understanding that the van ran fine until a point where it was run dry of fuel.
Two gallons of fuel was added - failed to start.
Towed home, perhaps swing by gas station and fill the tank - failed to start.
Replaced ignition switch, fuel pump, and filter assembly - failed to start, unable to crank starter from key.
Used remote start button to jumper the starter, sprayed ether and ran for a few seconds
Tested fuel pressure, indicated 60 psig.
Jumpered fuel pump and with ignition on, failed to start. Tested spark to ground, no spark seen.

Try the ether spray again and if it runs, you most definitively have spark.
Continue to troubleshoot the fuel injection by checking injection circuit with noid lights.

Good luck, work carefully and be observant. Something has changed since your ran out of fuel...
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Interesting,
I understood that it was able to run on the ether starting fluid but not on its own fuel supply.
Running on ether indicated that the ignition was working and pointed to fuel.

Review / inspect the work you did to replace the ignition switch.

RECAP: It is my understanding that the van ran fine until a point where it was run dry of fuel.
Two gallons of fuel was added - failed to start.
Towed home, perhaps swing by gas station and fill the tank - failed to start.
Replaced ignition switch, fuel pump, and filter assembly - failed to start, unable to crank starter from key.
Used remote start button to jumper the starter, sprayed ether and ran for a few seconds
Tested fuel pressure, indicated 60 psig.
Jumpered fuel pump and with ignition on, failed to start. Tested spark to ground, no spark seen.

Try the ether spray again and if it runs, you most definitively have spark.
Continue to troubleshoot the fuel injection by checking injection circuit with noid lights.

Good luck, work carefully and be observant. Something has changed since your ran out of fuel...
Update: Thank you sir. A recap, I ran Van out of fuel, gauge showed 1/4 full. The 2 gallon from my son was gasoline, It started and I drove to fill-up at a station. Van did not crank after fill-up, So, I had it towed home. I then replaced fuel pump and filter thinking it was the problem of no crank no start. The Van did start up and ran. I later on I tried to start the Van, it was no crank no start. I hooked up the battery cables to my Ram, it was no crank no start. Battery is less than 6 months. I replaced the ignition switch as was told by an old mechanic friend. The Van did start and ran. I turned key off and restarted several times, I was very happy. After about an hour or so it would not crank & start again, I was very sad. I sprayed starter fluid in intake, it did not start with key on and jumper starter/ pump relay connection, put relays back in. I then tried the key to start it started and ran for about 15 seconds and then it died. I know it will fire and start. I tried again with key and its no crank no start. I replaced relays with others, its still no crank. I removed flex fuel hose and jumper fuel relay, gas was yellow clear in the bottle. I then pressure tested the fuel as was asked by this forum with a fuel pressure kit ($135 rent) from Autozone. I jumper starter relay it cranked. So, I hooked up a push button remote starter, jumper 30 and 87 on fuel relay, turned the key on, pressure showed about 60 psi, then turned the key off. I remove pressure test kit and reattached hose. It did crank strong, I then replaced pump relay and tried with key to start Van, no crank no start. I listen and could not hear/feel injectors firing. I removed #2 plug wire with a screw driver inserted into wire end. Turned the key to on, I placed screw driver about 1/8 inch from plug, there was no spark gap when I crank engine with remote. I have tried to start Van for past 2 days it still won't crank with key. No engine light and no codes on ODB2.
I'm now going to get some noid lights to test injectors as was asked for the next test. I will let you know the results. Thank you so much for your help and guiding me in a direction to solve this no crank problem.

My first car was a 57 Auto push button Coronet, I overhauled the engine myself with my father's help. My first pickup was a 68 D100, was a great truck for many years. I dislike these computer controlled cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Have you tried to crank it in neutral instead of park?
Yes, I tried neutral and all gears, it won't crank.
I also tried a hard reset, disconnected each and placing both battery cables together for minute, reconnect and it won't crank with the key. I know it will start and run but it died and won't crank again. There is something not letting it crank when I engage the key. I can crank it with a remote button starter switch.
Thank you for a reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Yes, I tried neutral and all gears, it won't crank.
I also tried a hard reset, disconnected each and placing both battery cables together for minute, reconnect and it won't crank with the key. I know it will start and run but it died and won't crank again. There is something not letting it crank when I engage the key. I can crank it with a remote button starter switch.
Thank you for a reply.
Interesting,
I understood that it was able to run on the ether starting fluid but not on its own fuel supply.
Running on ether indicated that the ignition was working and pointed to fuel.

Review / inspect the work you did to replace the ignition switch.

RECAP: It is my understanding that the van ran fine until a point where it was run dry of fuel.
Two gallons of fuel was added - failed to start.
Towed home, perhaps swing by gas station and fill the tank - failed to start.
Replaced ignition switch, fuel pump, and filter assembly - failed to start, unable to crank starter from key.
Used remote start button to jumper the starter, sprayed ether and ran for a few seconds
Tested fuel pressure, indicated 60 psig.
Jumpered fuel pump and with ignition on, failed to start. Tested spark to ground, no spark seen.

Try the ether spray again and if it runs, you most definitively have spark.
Continue to troubleshoot the fuel injection by checking injection circuit with noid lights.

Good luck, work carefully and be observant. Something has changed since your ran out of fuel...
I rented the noid lights. I hooked a noid light on #6 injector connector. I turned the key on and cranked engine with remote starter and it was flashing every time it should. I took the noid light off and put the harness connector back on the injector. I went to turn the key off but decided to see if it would crank. The engine started up. Wow, I let it run a few minutes and shut off the engine. I restarted and I shut it off several times. The engine was running smooth as it has been. I shut it off and decided not to test the other injectors. I came back about 2 hours later to check if it would start. It would not crank again. I went and hooked up the noid light again, turn the key on and it flashed in time correctly with remote starter. I went to try the key again to start engine. No crank. I'm getting upset why it won't crank. Thank you all for your help and reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I hooked a led test light wire clamp to the battery ground and the probe to #86 of starter relay terminal. Turn the key to engage the starter and the probe lights up. Thank you for a reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Hello cvguy, thank you for your reply.
How do I test the pin #85?
With a test light or a voltmeter? How is it connected for a test?
Thank you for a reply.
 

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Hello cvguy, thank you for your reply.
How do I test the pin #85?
With a test light or a voltmeter? How is it connected for a test?
Thank you for a reply.
With the meter set to voltage, connect one meter lead to battery +, and the other to probe pin #85. Without the key turned, there should be no reading on the meter. Have a helper turn the key to start and, if the PCM is supplying ground to the relay, you would see the voltage reading on the meter at that point. If no voltage shows up, then the PCM is not supplying ground to the relay.
 

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recap for clarity.

Everything was running fine until it ran dry of fuel.
Then, you put fuel and it would not start, and then you filled the tank and it still will not start.

Next the fuel pump and filter were changed, status the same

Then an ignition switch change out.

If the starting fluid get it to run momentarily, then lets suspect fuel delivery.
I'd test the fuel pressure at the injector rail next.
You could also listen to hear if your fuel injectors are clicking. Use a long screw driver held to an injector and listen while cranking with the ignition on.
Just a wild guess here that may help to clarify all of this. I'm thinking that the car really didn't run out of fuel. The gauge may have shown it out of fuel or maybe low (they are considered approximate by some manufacturers) and it may have been close to running out but it didn't. Whatever malady the car is experiencing is the cause and nothing to do with running out of fuel originally.
 

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Hello PCM ground fault or bad PCM UNIT. Hope you find this helpful not sure why it seems so difficult for others to read what is written and prevent prematurely replied misconceptions of the properly formatted question but if the problem of not enjoying the comfort of having your engine start and run or even try after having the truly awkward experience of your decent means of" motorvation" just go kaput and coast your caravan to a mood deadening hault then the most technological reasoning is being displayed in the form of no crank no start so either the signal from cps ( crankshaft position sensor)or the signal to the cps is interrupted usually faulted ground and in that the fuel supply signal is also dead no ground no circuit so to speak So let me know if this reply finds you smiling in route to your desired destinations
 

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Hello PCM ground fault or bad PCM UNIT. Hope you find this helpful not sure why it seems so difficult for others to read what is written and prevent prematurely replied misconceptions of the properly formatted question but if the problem of not enjoying the comfort of having your engine start and run or even try after having the truly awkward experience of your decent means of" motorvation" just go kaput and coast your caravan to a mood deadening hault then the most technological reasoning is being displayed in the form of no crank no start so either the signal from cps ( crankshaft position sensor)or the signal to the cps is interrupted usually faulted ground and in that the fuel supply signal is also dead no ground no circuit so to speak So let me know if this reply finds you smiling in route to your desired destinations
What?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
With the meter set to voltage, connect one meter lead to battery +, and the other to probe pin #85. Without the key turned, there should be no reading on the meter. Have a helper turn the key to start and, if the PCM is supplying ground to the relay, you would see the voltage reading on the meter at that point. If no voltage shows up, then the PCM is not supplying ground to the relay.
I pulled the starter relay. I set the multi meter to voltage and connected one meter lead to battery +, and the other probe to pin #85 in the relay box. Without the key turned, there was 10.6 voltage reading on the meter. I had a helper turn the key to start the engine and the voltage did not change. No crank no start. I thinking the PCM is bad. Thank you for your reply.
 

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I had an Aerostar that didn't start very often because of a bad neutral start switch. I had to hold the key in the start position and quickly move the shifter from park to drive and back again over and over to trip that neutral start switch. When I heard the engine split second attempt at starting, then I could start it in N or P. Hold your foot on the brake and try holding the key on start while running through the gears. Check the transmission range sensor for any loose or corroded connections.
 

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I pulled the starter relay. I set the multi meter to voltage and connected one meter lead to battery +, and the other probe to pin #85 in the relay box. Without the key turned, there was 10.6 voltage reading on the meter.....
I don't understand what's going on there with a constant ground reading, but to cross check you could try the more standard and typical test. Carefully wrap a jumper wire around relay pin #85 (making certain it only contacts that pin), and push the relay back in place in the box. Ground the other end of the wire and try to start the van. If it cranks with the jumper in place, that would confirm no ground being sent from the PCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I don't understand what's going on there with a constant ground reading, but to cross check you could try the more standard and typical test. Carefully wrap a jumper wire around relay pin #85 (making certain it only contacts that pin), and push the relay back in place in the box. Ground the other end of the wire and try to start the van. If it cranks with the jumper in place, that would confirm no ground being sent from the PCM.
Hello, thank you for your reply.
I pulled the starter relay and wrapped a jump wire end around the relay leg of #85 and ran the other end to the ground on battery. I pushed the relay back in its place the box and turned the key to engage the starter and the engine began cranking but It did not start up the engine. Thank you for a reply.
 

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... I pushed the relay back in its place the box and turned the key to engage the starter and the engine began cranking but It did not start up the engine. ...
Although there is more than one possible suspect for the symptoms you're seeing, I would start by taking a look at the inside of the IPM. You would need to remove that battery and then open up the IPM and examine it to see if there is any evidence of corrosion inside. All connectors should be removed, and checked for anything that might be causing connectivity issues. Clean anything that looks questionable, put it all back together, and see if anything good has come from doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Although there is more than one possible suspect for the symptoms you're seeing, I would start by taking a look at the inside of the IPM. You would need to remove that battery and then open up the IPM and examine it to see if there is any evidence of corrosion inside. All connectors should be removed, and checked for anything that might be causing connectivity issues. Clean anything that looks questionable, put it all back together, and see if anything good has come from doing that.
Hello, thank you for your reply.
I would like to know if there is any cleaner for cleaning the connections I should use?
I'm going to disconnect all the connectors, I will put the IPM back together and try cranking the engine.
Again, thank you for helping me on this no crank issue.
 

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Although there is more than one possible suspect for the symptoms you're seeing, I would start by taking a look at the inside of the IPM. You would need to remove that battery and then open up the IPM and examine it to see if there is any evidence of corrosion inside. All connectors should be removed, and checked for anything that might be causing connectivity issues. Clean anything that looks questionable, put it all back together, and see if anything good has come from doing that.
Hi I'm having a similar issue I started my own post see "2002 T & C Lxi no start intermittent" but I believe this could help me too before spending more $$$. I see the recomended WD-40 cleaner but my question is when you refer the the IPM you say you need to remove the battery. Is this the same as the TIPM? Because TIPM is next to the battery I can access it without removing the battery. Maybe there is another unit "IPM" under the battery you are talking about? Or maybe you just meant to disconnect the battery before cleaning the connections? Thanks for your reply.

OP I will be following as my issue is very similar to yours, thanks.
 
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