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Don't believe that guy.
well, here you go, from dead cold:

(ignore the fact that i'm driving while using my phone for this demonstration ☺)



from 151128 miles to 151178, a 50 mile trip, with an average speed of probably about 45 mph, the engine stayed cool and never reached operating temperature, the hottest it got was halfway to operating temperature

this is very true:
it means the engine won't maintain temp while moving.
it's about 78f degrees outside (25c) right now, in the mornings when it's in the 40s and 50s it won't even climb past the second notch on the gauge after 30+ minutes of driving, meaning i get a little to no heat from the vents, even at halfway to operating temperature the heat isn't great

my mountaineer has a stuck thermostat too and acts the same, and that's a big 302 V8
 

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I would definitely change the plugs and pcv valve. It’s called preventative maintenance. Getting ready to do mine as my van has 92k on it. It’s smart, unlike some people on this board who would rather drive it until the wheels fall off and then scratch their heads like what happen???
 

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well, here you go, from dead cold:

from 151128 miles to 151178, a 50 mile trip, with an average speed of probably about 45 mph, the engine stayed cool and never reached operating temperature, the hottest it got was halfway to operating temperature
How you mange to drive 50 miles and average 45 mph? You drive slower than a slug.

On the second video, your gear and odometer display are acting up, I would not trust your temp. gauge either.
 

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Is it acting up, or just a frame rate/timing sync thing? It may have just lined up better in one video than the other. Kind of like video of helicopters that look like they are flying while their rotors aren't spinning.
 

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Is it acting up, or just a frame rate/timing sync thing? It may have just lined up better in one video than the other. Kind of like video of helicopters that look like they are flying while their rotors aren't spinning.

First video vehicle is not moving, on the second one, the vehicle is moving, very slow but it is moving! 🤣
 

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I would definitely change the plugs and pcv valve. It’s called preventative maintenance. Getting ready to do mine as my van has 92k on it. It’s smart, unlike some people on this board who would rather drive it until the wheels fall off and then scratch their heads like what happen???
Nothing smart about replacing PCV as P.M. On some vehicles you can break something trying to remove it, not worth it.
 

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How you mange to drive 50 miles and average 45 mph? You drive slower than a slug.

On the second video, your gear and odometer display are acting up, I would not trust your temp. gauge either.
it's the refresh rate of the camera, it happens in almost every video, and in still pictures too

happens in this person's video too, even worse than mine


it's not my fault the roads are mostly 35 on my route ☺
 

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it's the refresh rate of the camera, it happens in almost every video, and in still pictures too

happens in this person's video too, even worse than mine


it's not my fault the roads are mostly 35 on my route
Then you are breaking the law!
 

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I would definitely change the plugs and pcv valve. It’s called preventative maintenance. Getting ready to do mine as my van has 92k on it. It’s smart, unlike some people on this board who would rather drive it until the wheels fall off and then scratch their heads like what happen???

A pcv valve will let you know when it's not working properly. Routine cleaning, or replacement, is a good idea for peace of mind. There's not much to them.

For the early 4th Generations, they screwed into the steel valve pan cover, a piece of cake. For the later 4th Generations, with the ABS valve pan covers, they were pushed in, a PITA to remove, often resulting in damage to the valve pan cover. I don't know about the 5th Generations.

Per Owner Manual: Inspect and replace PCV valve if necessary. 100,000 miles or 10 years. Not a high maintenance item for sure, could last a lifetime.
 

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A pcv valve will let you know when it's not working properly. Routine cleaning, or replacement, is a good idea for peace of mind. There's not much to them.

For the early 4th Generations, they screwed into the steel valve pan cover, a piece of cake. For the later 4th Generations, with the ABS valve pan covers, they were pushed in, a PITA to remove, often resulting in damage to the valve pan cover. I don't know about the 5th Generations.y

Per Owner Manual: Inspect and replace PCV valve if necessary. 100,000 miles or 10 years. Not a high maintenance item for sure, could last a lifetime.

On older vehicles, to check a PCV valve you just de-attach it from the valve cover, with the vacuum hose still attached and engine running. You then with your finger plug the hole opposite to the vacuum hose, you should hear a sharp click every time you do this. Play with it several times to make sure it is working fine. If the "clicking" is not very sharp, just clean it with gasoline.

Haven't done on modern vehicles as some times this valve is not readily accessible and to be honest, I never had to replace one.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I'm still planning on doing it, I just haven't gotten to it yet. Between the flu and cold weather, it's been a rough couple of weeks.
 

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I don't know about the 5th Generations [ PCV valve location ].

Per Owner Manual: Inspect and replace PCV valve if necessary. 100,000 miles or 10 years. Not a high maintenance item for sure, could last a lifetime.
For the 2008-2010 it will be in the same place as the 4th Gens.
On the 3.6L if mounts to the side of the rear valve cover, near the heater hoses. It's bolt on and has an oil separator in it. So far I haven't seen a single one go out unless someone pulled the valve cover without removing it first.

Biggest hint that you need a PCV valve is oil in the intake. A very light film is normal, but a thick coat or liquid oil in the intake is a sign of a bad one... or failing piston rings allowing excessive blow-by (which would likely have additional symptoms).
 
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