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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings,

We are nearing 100k on our 2016 T&C and I'm looking into what services I want to do.

I'm thinking of swapping out the front shocks and struts, rear shocks, and a transmission service. My wife normally drives it but I have noticed that the RPMs have begun to surge a couple hundred just before it shifts, and I've never noticed this before. I checked the fluid. The fluid itself looks okay but I can't check the temperature so I'm not 100% sure on the level (why can't they just give us a dipstick with the correct hot and cold levels?)

I RPM surging doesn't seem to be causing any noticeable problems but it was enough to catch my attention the last time I road with her. We live in a rural area so it's not often the van doesn't completely warm up whenever it's going somewhere, and has never towed anything. Does this raise any red flags to anyone?
 

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Don't mess with shocks and struts unless they are giving you trouble. The struts especially typically hold up MUCH longer than 100K. Shocks sometimes get noisy, but if they're quiet and not leaking I'd leave them alone as well. I wouldn't worry about the shifting, as it's probably happened much longer than you have noticed, possibly since new.

The services you DO need are the spark plugs, and you could do the transmission fluid... it isn't "due" until 120K but still might be a good idea.
 

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I wouldn't even bother with spark plugs for another 50K. I changed mine at 103,000 and noticed absolutely no difference in mileage or performance. The electrode gap was almost unchanged from new, and the plugs looked good.
 

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Changing out struts and shocks to what ........ something that is less suitable and less durable than what you have now? Struts should be good for another 100,000 miles plus, the same for the shocks unless the dust shields are rusted out. The 50,000 mile interval ,or 100,000 mile interval, was invented by the shock/strut manufacturers so that they could sell more parts, then guarantee them for life via limited lifetime warranty, all in the interest of sales, not enhanced durability, using parts of a more universal nature, not specific to the vehicle. (n) for changing the struts or shocks. My 2002 GC had the original struts on it when sold back in 2018 @370,000 km.

Transmission service = what, not a flush I hope? Chrysler warns against flushes. Chrysler has issued various Service Bulletins over the years regarding the danger of flushes. Here's one such Bulletin:

If the shifting is a bit strange around 45 miles an hour, that's understandable as the torque converter and engine rpm control at 1,000 rpm come into play there. Sometimes the engine will lug at that speed, sometimes the transmission shifts down. Not using econ mode may smooth the shifting out some.

Should take the van on a 30 - 60 minute road trip every so often, like every couple of weeks, to give things a workout and to get rid of condensation in the oil.

Follow your Owner Manual for your maintenance work, not the Dealership's wish list.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So... maybe I'll put off everything but the transmission service. I know the manual says 120k but I figure it wouldn't hurt to swap the filter and partial fluid change after 100k.

The shocks on my old truck were changed at 120k and they were completely shot when I changed them. I figured the T&C would be close to the same.
 

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I wouldn't even bother with spark plugs for another 50K. I changed mine at 103,000 and noticed absolutely no difference in mileage or performance. The electrode gap was almost unchanged from new, and the plugs looked good.
I would still change the plugs. When I pulled them on my old van at 101K, they were still OK but did have a larger gap than spec by a significant amount.
 

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So... maybe I'll put off everything but the transmission service. I know the manual says 120k but I figure it wouldn't hurt to swap the filter and partial fluid change after 100k.

The shocks on my old truck were changed at 120k and they were completely shot when I changed them. I figured the T&C would be close to the same.
I wouldn't bother with transmission either.

Scratch front struts for sure. Rear shocks only if noisy.

Coils on those vehicles are strong enough to gap the plugs twice as much as recommended. So, I wouldn't bother with plugs either.

What services?

Check fluids (except transmission) and tire pressure.

If you don't see a transmission (ATF) leak, then ATF level should be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I tried driving with the Econ mode off tonight and the shifting was a bit smoother. I also took some video to see if it looks normal to you guys. I will upload in a bit. I don't remember ever turning Econ mode off before.
 

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Messing with the rear shocks has been bittersweet for me. I couldn't get the S that I wanted when we bought our '14 since we needed the roof rack. I also wanted load-assist, but didn't need the whole towing package. So first I tried the Monroe load-assist shocks shortly after buying the van. They squeaked. Warranty replacements knocked. I put originals back on. They knocked. New Mopar S trim shocks... one is now knocking after 1.5 years. Maybe the original touring shocks would still be fine if I hadn't fiddled, but that's not my nature I guess.

Side note, rear shocks have recently gotten a revised part number. I have a new one on the way to replace the knocking one. I hope to report improvements in the top mount bushing that knocks.

With plugs, unless it's running rough or MPG is suffering, you can leave them alone. Though 100k is a pretty standard preventative replacement schedule. Doing as I do, I replaced them around 50k. Smoothed out the idle a little (the reason I replaced them), but otherwise didn't notice any improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
We're over 100k now so I ordered new plugs and a PCV valve since those are what's called for in the manual.
 

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What spark plugs are you getting? OE?

Good luck with your project.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OE plugs according to Rock Auto. I was getting some conflicting information depending on the source.
 

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You should to do a transmission service. That hesitation in shifting is from a clogged filter. You'll be amazed by the difference. Mine had a barely noticeable delay like what you described before I did mine at 67k. The improvement in shifting was incredible.
 

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That's good to know, that was something I had planned on doing once it warmed up. Maybe I need to get on it sooner.
 

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That's good to know, that was something I had planned on doing once it warmed up. Maybe I need to get on it sooner.
Doubt you'll feel any noticeable change after you change ATF and filter.

At nearly 100,000 miles, your filter shouldn't be clogged or near to be. Yes, it is time to change ATF (according to manufacturer).

I have never seen a transmission problem due to a clogged filter. A clogged filter is the results of something else wrong in the transmission.

If you change ATF at this time, start saving for a new transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Do you think there's actually a problem with the shifting from the videos? Or is it just different from what I'm used to in my truck (wife drives the van most of the time)
 

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Honestly, I don't see a problem. Your rpm's stay pretty much under 2000 rpm's while your transmission is changing gears. I'll consider normal to change gears at around 2100 rpm's.

If your wife usually drives and accelerate very gently, then the transmission was programmed to her driving habits.

I wouldn't worry about it.

I never ever change ATF on any of my vehicles, I drive a lot, most of the times heavily loaded and pulling a trailer.

I'm not asking you to do the same, but just letting you know your ATF and filter shouldn't be a problem at this time.

People often gets all wired up and swears your ATF and filter must be replaced quickly when you reach 100,000 miles.

Good luck.
 
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