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Discussion Starter #362
The $4.50 cent BARGAIN NAPA FILTER!

I got a Frantz for my VOLVO 240...SOMEWHERE... Ready to be installed. Yes TP! When you run out of Kleenex, TOILET PAPER DELIVERS! & will always be there for you :thumb:

THis is the part I got. it is close to a G15 FRAM that has been sold for over 60 years.

NAPA part # 23097.


s-l300.jpg

I will be installing this on the Power steering and Transmission temporarily till i get a Spin on style filter adaptor.
Something like this:
oil_filter_relocated.jpg
THey are CHEAP. You can get filters for them ANYWHERE. And they have no problem with high pressures or oil. I just can't think of paying $20-40 bucks for an inline filter when I can get something like this that I can even install one of these kinds of filters by Amsoil. And I think WIX or another brand makes one that does the same thing.
amsoil-bmk21-single-remote-bypass-kit.jpg
so that when I do get ready for rebuild time for the transmission, I have the BEST filtration possible of small Aluminum fragments etc. Pretty common with some of the shoddy workmanship coming out of parts Manufacturers machining these days.


I have NEVER been a BIG fan of the OEM transmission filters I have been able to source. This is what we have in our Transmissions. And ALL of the aftermarket ones all seem to be crap
tf242_6.jpg
The reason became VERY clear to me back in 2013 when I went to the Mt. Hood. The amount of Clutch material floating in the fluid not being filtered was Crazy! IT took DAYS for it to clean it out. And even after that? there was still some crud floating around in there. That was ANOTHER.. $80 bucks in fluid to do a change and a new filter.

Either they just don't filter very well, or everyone who makes these kinds of filters just don't do a good job of catching all the contaminants in the fluid. Even if its large particles that you can see like crap from the clutch.

And there was NO WAY I was going to use a PLASTIC Magnefine filter. I heard WAY TO MANY stories of them failing by cracking , bursting or the area where the clamps go cracks.. THen you have Plastic in your Transmission. NOPE. NOPE NOPE.

So metal it is.

I looked and took apart the filters and studied the media. As well as going over other DATA to see Burst PSI and Filter construction. THe MEDIA is almost all the same minus the ones that have Mesh Metal style filters. So this is Large enough, has plenty of flow, and has no problem with the fluid I am going to be running through it. AND. It's not $25 dollars of plastic.


EBAY AMAZON are fine for crap stuff. But when it comes to under hood items like your $3,000 transmission? I am going to go with a real PARTS house.

I need to clean the Sensors tonight on the transmission, and it should be working just like it should. The part about the T41 really wanting to be clean is no joke.
Just cleaning the sensors makes the car drive better. TOnight since I don't have work tomorrow I will knock out the flush of the Power steering (AGAIN) and install the filter after the fluid looks good and CLEAN.

I Already cleaned out my Power steering reservoir so that you could eat out of the inside of it. No more crud in there. Nice...


So.. I better get started. Its night time again.. So.. :)

Oh and BTW.

OVEN CLEANER from the DOLLAR TREE IS THE WAY TO GO TO CLEAN OIL OFF YOUR DRIVEWAY! Dude THAT STUFF WORKS!
I wanted to paint the Bumper today? But I guess I will wait on that till tomorrow if the weather hold out. I need to buy a rubber sanding block. And I am using Duplicolor color match paint. I picked up the filler primer already and the rear bumper should look great.

Lets see how much I can get done tonight!
 

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Discussion Starter #363
The $4.50 cent BARGAIN NAPA FILTER!

I got a Frantz for my VOLVO 240...SOMEWHERE... Ready to be installed. Yes TP! When you run out of Kleenex, TOILET PAPER DELIVERS! & will always be there for you :thumb:

THis is the part I got. it is close to a G15 FRAM that has been sold for over 60 years.

NAPA part # 23097.


View attachment 52705

I will be installing this on the Power steering and Transmission temporarily till i get a Spin on style filter adaptor.
Something like this:
View attachment 52707
THey are CHEAP. You can get filters for them ANYWHERE. And they have no problem with high pressures or oil. I just can't think of paying $20-40 bucks for an inline filter when I can get something like this that I can even install one of these kinds of filters by Amsoil. And I think WIX or another brand makes one that does the same thing.
View attachment 52709
so that when I do get ready for rebuild time for the transmission, I have the BEST filtration possible of small Aluminum fragments etc. Pretty common with some of the shoddy workmanship coming out of parts Manufacturers machining these days.


I have NEVER been a BIG fan of the OEM transmission filters I have been able to source. This is what we have in our Transmissions. And ALL of the aftermarket ones all seem to be crap
View attachment 52711
The reason became VERY clear to me back in 2013 when I went to the Mt. Hood. The amount of Clutch material floating in the fluid not being filtered was Crazy! IT took DAYS for it to clean it out. And even after that? there was still some crud floating around in there. That was ANOTHER.. $80 bucks in fluid to do a change and a new filter.

Either they just don't filter very well, or everyone who makes these kinds of filters just don't do a good job of catching all the contaminants in the fluid. Even if its large particles that you can see like crap from the clutch.

And there was NO WAY I was going to use a PLASTIC Magnefine filter. I heard WAY TO MANY stories of them failing by cracking , bursting or the area where the clamps go cracks.. THen you have Plastic in your Transmission. NOPE. NOPE NOPE.

So metal it is.

I looked and took apart the filters and studied the media. As well as going over other DATA to see Burst PSI and Filter construction. THe MEDIA is almost all the same minus the ones that have Mesh Metal style filters. So this is Large enough, has plenty of flow, and has no problem with the fluid I am going to be running through it. AND. It's not $25 dollars of plastic.


EBAY AMAZON are fine for crap stuff. But when it comes to under hood items like your $3,000 transmission? I am going to go with a real PARTS house.


 

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Don't let the raccoons get into your paint or you may have a "designer" driveway. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #365
THERE SHE BLOWS! Hose Failure.

Well freinds. I.. Did not get to do anything else but.. Return the system BACK to where it was. Why?

The HOSE that connects to the transmision outlet BLEW. And I mean IT Sprayed like a skunk all over the engine bay. I actually had a Small SLIT open up in the hose. And it was at the bottom of it where I could not see the hose. I should have Inspected it. But good thing it happened close to home instead of out on the road or going to work. It did not seem like it was a problem with flow with the filter. But a weakness in the hose itself. All other clamps and fitting were leak free and worked just fine.

So this is what I did to make sure the FIlter FITS the hose PERFECTLY!

The Napa FIlter :
I was able to use the barbs from a fram I had laying around to make a tight leak free fit. I compressed this on to the barb. I used a grinder to shorten the length of the nipples.









The completed filter after grinding down one side. THe Plastic ends came from a FRAM that had blown. Used my grinder and a drill bit to make them fit SNUG as a RUG on the metal of the Napa filter. ZERO LEAKS! WORKED PERFECT!











This is basically what happened to the house. But Width wise across the hose like a SMALL slit or cut was in the hose. More then likely, this was from me NOT cutting off the old stressed portion of the 3 year old hose. Should have done that.





So while at 7 eleven, I was able to fix it and get home. TO CLEAN THE ENGINE BAY AGAIN.... :angrya:

I took the filter off for the time being until I have ALL brand new hoses. Really, the hose is Just fine. But I did not want to take the chance of something like this happening again.

WIth the extra pressure having the Filter in there, I think the weak point of the hose just let go. And it is a place where the hose does see quite a bit of movement, so it broke RIGHT before the Nipple and hose clamps in a clean slit. I could not even SEE it until I took the hose of and inspected it. Love to show you the failure mode, but.. I was Arm deep in a greasy engine bay at that point at the 7 eleven.


So I did a Macgyver. I had a KNIFE on me. Like the ones that People in the UK can not have anymore.. I made a Nice clean cut, and reinstalled it. No problems. Even tested it in the driveway going through the gears, and put as MUCH hot fluid pressure on it as I could. So the FILTER was a success! But I took it off until I get all new hoses just for Safety reasons. Besides, the filter did its job, and the Fluid has already been flushed in a way... :biggrin:

I reinstalled the Hose with the Brass hose piece, and cleaned up the engine bay again.


I put it in drive and parked on a hill for about 20 minutes while I cleaned up the engine bay. No leaks, and No problems with it on, but took it off for safety till I get Brand New Transmission line Rated duty hose. No goodyear. I want GATES or the REAL hydraulic hose that they use on Commercial grade hydraulic machinery. Reason being that this hose let go due to the hose being weakened by movement and that was the flex point of the molded hose. And it would be the point of failure or the weakest part. It was just RIGHT after the outlet from the transmission.

It took a bit to see it leak, but BOY did she GO when it got going. 42 seconds in you can HEAR it spray.

Well. I got it home. But I had to use whatever 7 eleven had on the shelf. 3 quarts of 10-40 and one of Marvel Mystery oil, and I got home. Filled it with Gear oil, and now.. I have to flush that stuff out.. And put in some atf4.. Ouch.. Well. I'm dropping the pan soon anyways. So it will be fine till then. And yet another trip to Walmart for MORE fluid. And CAT LITTER.

So. Lesson learned kids. USE ALL brand new hoses if you are going to do this. These hoses do get weak with the engine moving around back and forth. So its a good idea to replace them before you add any extra stress to them. Say.. A FIlter..

Since I am not using ATF4 anymore, And I have thicker fluid in there now.. Not a good idea to keep the filter in line either. SO took it out for the time being. But before I did I ran the engine a LONG time even in Drive up a hill to make sure while HOT and warm, the filter cleaned out any gunk or crap out of the transmission.

The oil, though darker does not have any "BLACK to it". Neither does it have ANYthing floating in it. It really is clean as can be.


I just did not get around to cleaning the Sensors since I need a 1 inch Deep socket and could not find mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #366
SInce I was in the neighborhood.. I found some Problems..

1. THe Zip tie holding up some of the wire, has worn through the OEM sheathing. I saw TINY bits of copper through the wires. I use some Liquid electrical tape and sealed those wires up.

2. Used Tape to fix the OEM nylon tape.

3. Has Some Aluminum tape so I wrapped the Engine harness connector over the exhaust and also he wires by the transmission close to the exhaust heat. RE hung the wire looms, and all is good there.

4. My Passenger side LED running lights stopped working. Dratz.. Wonder why? WIll check this out today.
 

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Well freinds. I.. Did not get to do anything else but.. Return the system BACK to where it was. Why?

The HOSE that connects to the transmision outlet BLEW. And I mean IT Sprayed like a skunk all over the engine bay. I actually had a Small SLIT open up in the hose. And it was at the bottom of it where I could not see the hose. I should have Inspected it. But good thing it happened close to home instead of out on the road or going to work. It did not seem like it was a problem with flow with the filter. But a weakness in the hose itself. All other clamps and fitting were leak free and worked just fine.

So this is what I did to make sure the FIlter FITS the hose PERFECTLY!

The Napa FIlter :
I was able to use the barbs from a fram I had laying around to make a tight leak free fit. I compressed this on to the barb. I used a grinder to shorten the length of the nipples.









The completed filter after grinding down one side. THe Plastic ends came from a FRAM that had blown. Used my grinder and a drill bit to make them fit SNUG as a RUG on the metal of the Napa filter. ZERO LEAKS! WORKED PERFECT!











This is basically what happened to the house. But Width wise across the hose like a SMALL slit or cut was in the hose. More then likely, this was from me NOT cutting off the old stressed portion of the 3 year old hose. Should have done that.





So while at 7 eleven, I was able to fix it and get home. TO CLEAN THE ENGINE BAY AGAIN.... :angrya:

I took the filter off for the time being until I have ALL brand new hoses. Really, the hose is Just fine. But I did not want to take the chance of something like this happening again.

WIth the extra pressure having the Filter in there, I think the weak point of the hose just let go. And it is a place where the hose does see quite a bit of movement, so it broke RIGHT before the Nipple and hose clamps in a clean slit. I could not even SEE it until I took the hose of and inspected it. Love to show you the failure mode, but.. I was Arm deep in a greasy engine bay at that point at the 7 eleven.


So I did a Macgyver. I had a KNIFE on me. Like the ones that People in the UK can not have anymore.. I made a Nice clean cut, and reinstalled it. No problems. Even tested it in the driveway going through the gears, and put as MUCH hot fluid pressure on it as I could. So the FILTER was a success! But I took it off until I get all new hoses just for Safety reasons. Besides, the filter did its job, and the Fluid has already been flushed in a way... :biggrin:

I reinstalled the Hose with the Brass hose piece, and cleaned up the engine bay again.


I put it in drive and parked on a hill for about 20 minutes while I cleaned up the engine bay. No leaks, and No problems with it on, but took it off for safety till I get Brand New Transmission line Rated duty hose. No goodyear. I want GATES or the REAL hydraulic hose that they use on Commercial grade hydraulic machinery. Reason being that this hose let go due to the hose being weakened by movement and that was the flex point of the molded hose. And it would be the point of failure or the weakest part. It was just RIGHT after the outlet from the transmission.

It took a bit to see it leak, but BOY did she GO when it got going. 42 seconds in you can HEAR it spray.

Well. I got it home. But I had to use whatever 7 eleven had on the shelf. 3 quarts of 10-40 and one of Marvel Mystery oil, and I got home. Filled it with Gear oil, and now.. I have to flush that stuff out.. And put in some atf4.. Ouch.. Well. I'm dropping the pan soon anyways. So it will be fine till then. And yet another trip to Walmart for MORE fluid. And CAT LITTER.

So. Lesson learned kids. USE ALL brand new hoses if you are going to do this. These hoses do get weak with the engine moving around back and forth. So its a good idea to replace them before you add any extra stress to them. Say.. A FIlter..

Since I am not using ATF4 anymore, And I have thicker fluid in there now.. Not a good idea to keep the filter in line either. SO took it out for the time being. But before I did I ran the engine a LONG time even in Drive up a hill to make sure while HOT and warm, the filter cleaned out any gunk or crap out of the transmission.

The oil, though darker does not have any "BLACK to it". Neither does it have ANYthing floating in it. It really is clean as can be.


I just did not get around to cleaning the Sensors since I need a 1 inch Deep socket and could not find mine.
Vice grips, to loosen or tighten, work fin. It won't be stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #368
Transmission shifts like a DREAM now. NO KIDDING. CLEAN YOUR SENSORS! TASK-1

How to Bring back those SMOOTH shifts in your transmission? CLEAN YOUR SENSORS!


I know a lot of you got out of your way to fix these problems. But sometimes the solution is SIMPLE. Clean the GUNK on your sensors. Being that they are Operated as a Hall effect device, ANY AMOUNT OF METAL contamination is going to screw with the readings.

The old adage that this Transmission LOVES to be clean is an UNDERSTATEMENT! Hence why I have been changing out my fluid at least once a year. (Sometimes, Involuntarily :biggrin: )
But the real rub here is that YOU NEED TO CLEAN OFF THE SENSORS! Some people may have more metal in theirs then others, but I have about 3 Neodymium Hard drive magnets on the transmission pan picking up the Ferrous particles. And by next month or so, I should have the Full Monty Spin on FIlter for the transmission. Of course with ALL NEW LINES.



To speak about the longevity of the lines, MINE were replaced less then 3 years ago. And LOOK at what happned! You have to take GOOD care of your Rubber lines that are under pressure. And for the record, I HATE the WORM DRIVE hose clamps. THe better quality ones are the OEM type that are clip on. THOSE ARE THE WAY TO GO if you want your HOSE to LAST since they provide EVEN pressure all around and are WAY more gentle to the hose as well.

In fact, the best thing you can do is put some Silicone lubricant on the hose clamp, and then tighten them down. But overtime the hose end still gets chowder.

So the Transmission as of now shifts like a dream. Still the wrong fluid in there, but that will change in time. One thing at a time of course.

BEFORE attempting ANY WORK on your transmission, CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN the front of it. I MEAN SPOTLESS! You don't want ANYTHING going into those large holes. I even use compressed air as I back them out to make sure no grit or grime gets into the threads as I loosen them. I know overkill. But Remember all those people with ALL THOSE transmission problems? THis one is in its SECOND van.. Think about that! And IT STILL Lights up all 4 tires like it did today. (did a Fast and the Furious pulling out into traffic in the rain today!)


I still have to fill and check the other 2 Gear oils in the driveline that will be this weekend. Its starting to rain.. SO NATURALLY I PICK NOW TO WORK ON MY Van? :nut:


So after getting that all taken care of. And Taking it for a test drive. Using WD 40 and compressed air to clean the connectors, and Wiping off ALL of the metal on the sensors, VAN DRIVES AMAZING BALLS!

PICS and VIDEO:








THIS BELOW is one of the NUMBER ONE REASONS why these sensors FAIL!
Take a look at the CRACK! Sooner or later, Dirty fluid is going to get inside here. AND YOU are going to have a BAD DAY! Maybe stuck in second gear for months!







SO... ON to the POWER steering flush.
 

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Discussion Starter #369
Trans sensors... HEHE.. And the NASTY power steering fluid.




And THanks to Hazard Fraught for the sockets! WHOO HOO!.

And YUP got them for 19.99!
200_ITEM_13_PIECE_1_2__DRIVE_DEEP_WALL_IMPACT_SOCKET_SETS_1442194380.8537.jpg

Also picked up a Flat Rubber sander for the Bumper.




Dratz RAIN today so did not get any work there done on the bumper. Oh well.




I bought THIS hose from LOWES. Again made for AIR hose.
091712013402.jpg
[SUP]$[/SUP]6.99

And this guy.
042805445976.jpg


[SUP]$[/SUP]2.39

And I have ALL 10 feet of it under the car right now ready for the next flush of power steering fluid. THIS TIME... I am doing a LIVE flush. **** I am about to use DIESEL since its CHEAPER then flushing with Power steering fluid. Walmart OIL is looking REALLY good right about now. But I am using SUPERTECH Walmart Brand Power steering fluid to make the flush again. No reason to waste ATF4 to clean out the system.






The hose is securely zip tied under the car with Black CLASP Zip ties that are removable . LOVE THESE THINGS!
green-gardner-bender-cable-ties-45-12beadgn-64_1000.jpg
$3400/case (or like $5 bucks a wack)



 

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Discussion Starter #370
VIdeos only one allowed per post.


Close up of sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #371
CLose up of sensors 2?

So on to the Power steering.
 

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Discussion Starter #372
New Problem. THe EL Inverter on the front has Overheated?

DARN! So this is the little puppy right here.
s-l640.jpg

See the thing is, your best off just buying it with wire.. ITS CHEAPER. So.. did a bid on 4 more of them. WON THEM for under a BUCK! WHOO HOO!!!

Also, they come with a 3 year warranty.. SO. Time to make a warranty claim. Im not sure if it was heat. But these things are REALLY sensitive to heat. SO this time. I'm going to mount it behind the headlights where there is PLENTY of cool air and NO hot air from the engine. Really it was MY fault.. So.. na.. Ill take the hit as a lesson learned. Besides, I got them for nothing. And Fast shipping. And I already ordered 4 more. So I am good!

The ones on the outside of the car mounted in back are doing great. All 3 of them. KEEPING THESE THINGS COOL IS KEY!

Anything in the engine bay from CHINA is going to fail. Its one of the reason why I don't have COld Cathodes under the hood anymore.

However those CHEAP dollar LED's I bout from Outrageous Audio are STILL GOING STRONG for like 4 years! WOW! They were made for License plate lights. But They work GREAT under the hood.


So now. I got some GREASY clothes to wash... Tomorrow. I am going to do the last flush and put on the filter.

However. You know what I found when I pulled the power steering low pressure side hose? YOU GUESSED IT! The DAMN 3 years old now rubber at the end has went to POOP!

So. CUt off the end, and right now using the Barb fitting on that end to feed into the Air Hose and go through it and back to the pump. Yup, its a LONG run. But it was all to make flushing the system easy for the time being. There still is plenty of hose on the rubber OEM stuff to put it on the power steering pump. SO that's good. But I want to eventually put in a permanent filter in there. (the one I bought is only for TEMP USE to clean the crud out. I am going to use it one last time, and then is going into the bin. REplaced with a NEW filter and all should be well at that point. I'm going to strap on some Neodymium magnets to it, and it will sit there for about a week till I get the system ALL cleaned as much as I can. After that. THe filter is going to be full of crap. I don't want it to backflow into the system, so it's going to be replaced. I suspect that my pump may last longer than I will.

After the last flush I am going to put my Shop vac on the pump reservoir and put a vacuum on it to suck out any air in the system after I get it all patched up again. I am going to place the van at an angle in my driveway and it should get all the air bubbles out of the system.


One thing to note. IT TAKES TIME for the fluid to reach the pump and naturally settle down there with gravity. So when you do your flush Make sure you wait about an hour or so and turn the steering wheel manual while tires are up in the air to prime the system and get rid of any Air bubbles before starting the Van.

After ALL is said and done.. A COMPLETE WASH DOWN of the undercarriage is going to take place. THere is still tons of Oil much down there I want to clean. Again. I hate working on a dirty Van.

I have a pressure washer. But unless you have HOT HOT water, its really not going to make much of a difference.

So where do you get HOT WATER? From your Hot water Heater of course!

You have a Lower spigot on most hot water heaters. You can use this in order to get hot water. THe water at my home is only about 130' F out of the tap. So this will not hurt the pump on the electric pressure washer. Mix that in with some DAWN. And use some oven cleaner to PRE soak the area, and ALL should be cleaned up. Its not the OIL i am so worried about. its the crap that it traps from the road that I don't want sticking to the underside of the VAn.

With the leaks prior, I have a LOT of mess down there. And working on my rig sucks right now. SO off to the dollar tree for MORE OVEN CLEANER! THAT STUFF WORKS! THen some FLuid FILM to protect whats under the van, Then off to filling and topping off the Driveline Gear oils.
 

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.....But I want to eventually put in a permanent filter in there. (the one I bought is only for TEMP USE to clean the crud out. I am going to use it one last time, and then is going into the bin. REplaced with a NEW filter and all should be well at that point. I'm going to strap on some Neodymium magnets to it, and it will sit there for about a week till I get the system ALL cleaned as much as I can. After that. THe filter is going to be full of crap. I don't want it to backflow into the system, so it's going to be replaced. I suspect that my pump may last longer than I will.

.....I have a pressure washer. But unless you have HOT HOT water, its really not going to make much of a difference.

So where do you get HOT WATER? From your Hot water Heater of course!

You have a Lower spigot on most hot water heaters. You can use this in order to get hot water.
.....
Just to let you know, you don't get hot water out of that "spigot", cold water mix with hot water in the lower part of your water heater, so you only get warm water at the most.

Word of caution: A filter on the low pressure line may restrict flow, causing cavitation which eventually may destroy your pump. There is a reason manufacturers doesn't include a filter.

Good luck.
 

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I have a pressure washer. But unless you have HOT HOT water, its really not going to make much of a difference.
Be sure to check the max recommended water temperature for your pressure washer beforehand. I've blown up a pretty expensive Kärcher by connecting it to hot water tap. It's around 140°F in most pressure washers and I only exceeded it by about 20-25°F for a quarter of an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter #375
As ALways Thank you for the Insight and knowledge.

I learned the hard way of why you don't put hot water in a commercial Pressure washer pump head.

Back in the day in the good old days when the NAVY just could not STOP giving you tools to break... :cool: We were told to use hot water to clean the Stairs on the BEQ housing for us Submarine Jocks.

Well. Hot water being Pressurised has this FUNNY problem that Levey mentioned. And its Pump Cavitation.

Unlike your home water heater that may run out of steam. THESE Large Building GAS Unit THINGS put out 190-200 degree water ALL DAY LONG. And the Thermostats are a little slow.. So. If it senses ANY cold water, the thing goes to 11. That's when you really get some hot water.. It almost comes out boiling.

Was great for the Hick hot tub that we did in the back of a Pick up Truck. (Seriously the ONLY reason why I want a Pick up truck, is so that I can route all the HEAT from the engine to the Bed and use it to heat the water. Obviously, a DIESEL engine would do a GREAT job! Hence, why I want an old 12v Cummins Dodge Truck. But really, any dodge truck with a economical diesel engine will do. Oh the OLD DAYS...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_RSkVDR1vQ
Oh Stephanie.. 7 MORE things of Sausage..

But anyways. WE BLEW the PUMP HEAD CLEAR OFF THE Pressure washer. I think It landed someplace on the roof next door.

OH those were the days.
 

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Discussion Starter #376
As ALways Thank you for the Insight and knowledge.

I learned the hard way of why you don't put hot water in a commercial Pressure washer pump head.

Back in the day in the good old days when the NAVY just could not STOP giving you tools to break... :cool: We were told to use hot water to clean the Stairs on the BEQ housing for us Submarine Jocks.

Well. Hot water being Pressurised has this FUNNY problem that Levey mentioned. And its Pump Cavitation.

Unlike your home water heater that may run out of steam. THESE Large Building GAS Unit THINGS put out 190-200 degree water ALL DAY LONG. And the Thermostats are a little slow.. So. If it senses ANY cold water, the thing goes to 11. That's when you really get some hot water.. It almost comes out boiling.

Was great for the Hick hot tub that we did in the back of a Pick up Truck. (Seriously the ONLY reason why I want a Pick up truck, is so that I can route all the HEAT from the engine to the Bed and use it to heat the water. Obviously, a DIESEL engine would do a GREAT job! Hence, why I want an old 12v Cummins Dodge Truck. But really, any dodge truck with a economical diesel engine will do. Oh the OLD DAYS...
<br>[video] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_RSkVDR1vQ[/video]
Oh Stephanie.. 7 MORE things of Sausage..

But anyways. WE BLEW the PUMP HEAD CLEAR OFF THE Pressure washer. I think It landed someplace on the roof next door.

OH those were the days.
 

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Discussion Starter #377

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Discussion Starter #378
OKAY second time. See if I get the address right.



After this I give up.
 

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Discussion Starter #379
Pump fluid is almost CLEAN as can be. Doing last flush this next week.

With the advice of Levy, I am forgetting about the pump filter. I wanted to set up a jig to measure just how much resistance to flow it would have, and after shooting some air from my air compressor through it. LEVY was RIGHT.

No wonder the hose blew. So. Screw the filter. With about now about 4 oil changes in the pump. Its no longer milky. Time for the ATF4 this next week and call it done.

Right now, just cleaning up the driveway. CAT LITTER and LOTS of Walking over it with and crushing it down to clean up any oil from the power steering in the driveway.

ALSO. I am ONE LUCKY SOB! I forgot to connect the HOT 4-AWG wire to the Front fuse block. IT WAS JUST HANGING THERE.. OMG. yea its fused by a 200 AMP fuse..But I have grounded it before.. And.. I could WELD WITH IT. OOOPS. Glad it did not ground out. That would have REALLY sucked.

Also left a Paper towel under there. Yea.. IT was CRISPY. Woops.

So. Right now taking care of those issues while I have daylight then going to start flushing the heat core. I think I have the right locations of the lines. One on the transmision side, and the other one is connected right where the thermostat is.

The Fluid is not really bad. But I bet you its dirty. Also, I put in some Prestone FLuid flush. So it's time to change out the system. Also, when I blew my Radiator, I used some of that stop leak stuff. NEVER AGAIN. NEVER AGAIN. I got to get that crud out of my System. its still in there. I have to finish cleaning up the driveway, and then I will get around to doing the coolant flush.

THEN. I WILL WASH MY CLOTHES. Anyone got any idea on the best detergent to get OIL out of your clothes? Or just use that Purple Power in the wash?

Pics will be up soon.
 

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But anyways. WE BLEW the PUMP HEAD CLEAR OFF THE Pressure washer. I think It landed someplace on the roof next door.
:blink:

One option is (to rent) an actual hot water pressure washer, they have a built-in burner that heats the pressurized water and go up to 300°F+, effectively operating as high pressure steam washers. Add a sandblasting nozzle, feed it glass media and it'll even strip rustproofing undercoat to bare metal.

Decent ones start at around $4k so renting is a realistic way to go.
 
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imickey503
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