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Discussion Starter #321
And lets not forget... You get the DIESELS. AND THIS lovely device here.




And some people think I have bad taste.... GEBUZ I found this Zombie Monster.



Model with the washers on the headlights.


And it took me a while, but look. Washers for your headlights..


Darn can't find a good image of the stock side marker. But at least it does not have heated windshield washer jets.
 

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Your Headlights are made of.. GLASS? After spending about an hour looking, this is the BEST pic I could find:

And just so that others know, THESE are there Tail lights. They have DEDICATED Amber. Its not bad looking, but.. Its just not as appealing to me as the US ones.

this one has The side turn signals. German I think.

from what it looks like, the glass does not seem to live an easy life i theUK]
Don't get excited about the "glass" part. They're still crap. Reasonably adequate when they're brand new but the reflector oxidizes in a few years and the glass develops temperature change -induced hairline cracks in no time so no matter what you do, they'll be useless in 2-3 years tops. Taillights are basically a variation of the US unit, personally I rather have black/smoke LED or "Altezza" -style lamps than either of them, but that's just a matter of personal preference.

Custom is the only real way to go. High beams are easy to improve with auxiliary lights or a LED light bar, but low beams are a major pain unless you're willing to open up the housings and change pretty much all the internals. There used to be an aftermarket, dual 90mm module headlight unit available at an absurd price of several hundreds of €. It was sold through official dealerships as an upgrade, too. I've been keeping an eye out for a pair, they show up at the wreckers' every now and then but I don't seem to be the only one who wants them.

They are a bolt-on platform for Hella off the shelf HID/LED/halogen high beam / low beam / combo modules, complete with E-markings, so no wonder they're sought after. And they look pretty badass too.

Hmm. They seem to be still available... sticker shock warning: https://www.4x4styling.com/Doppelscheinwerfer-Set-mit-DE-Lichttechnik-Chrysler-Voyager-Grand-Voyager-GS-96-01
 

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Discussion Starter #323

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Discussion Starter #324
Don't get excited about the "glass" part. They're still crap. Reasonably adequate when they're brand new but the reflector oxidizes in a few years and the glass develops temperature change -induced hairline cracks in no time so no matter what you do, they'll be useless in 2-3 years tops. Taillights are basically a variation of the US unit, personally I rather have black/smoke LED or "Altezza" -style lamps than either of them, but that's just a matter of personal preference.

Custom is the only real way to go. High beams are easy to improve with auxiliary lights or a LED light bar, but low beams are a major pain unless you're willing to open up the housings and change pretty much all the internals. There used to be an aftermarket, dual 90mm module headlight unit available at an absurd price of several hundreds of €. It was sold through official dealerships as an upgrade, too. I've been keeping an eye out for a pair, they show up at the wreckers' every now and then but I don't seem to be the only one who wants them.

They are a bolt-on platform for Hella off the shelf HID/LED/halogen high beam / low beam / combo modules, complete with E-markings, so no wonder they're sought after. And they look pretty badass too.

Hmm. They seem to be still available... sticker shock warning: https://www.4x4styling.com/Doppelscheinwerfer-Set-mit-DE-Lichttechnik-Chrysler-Voyager-Grand-Voyager-GS-96-01

If its better then this? I doubt it. Its not that I would not spend the money. I just don't think I can see the difference in a rolex vs a Citizen timepiece. But there are the few that enjoy having the best. $800 bucks.. And maybe almost a THOUSAND after taxes?

Its not that much more off from a quality HID build. $250 for the sonars. Another $350 for bulbs, ballasts. $200 in hardware. I guess we ust need to make more cash.
 

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If its better then this? I doubt it. Its not that I would not spend the money. I just don't think I can see the difference in a rolex vs a Citizen timepiece. But there are the few that enjoy having the best. $800 bucks.. And maybe almost a THOUSAND after taxes?

Its not that much more off from a quality HID build. $250 for the sonars. Another $350 for bulbs, ballasts. $200 in hardware. I guess we ust need to make more cash.
The beauty of it is that it can accommodate any 90mm round modules. Take a look at this and follow the links on the right: http://www.myhellalights.com/index.php/products/auxiliary-lamps/modules/ , bixenon, biled, etc. I'm not sure which modules it comes with but anything you can find on the catalog link, goes. OTOH car lights on average have lost quite a bit of power as LEDs have become mainstream, a local car mag published an extensive article about the subject and concluded that average 35W OEM HID bixenon lights wipe the floor with 99% of all OEM LED lights, both in sheer light output and physiological visibility.

For the price, though, I'll pass unless I find a pair dirt cheap at a wrecker's. They're rare but out there.

A good retrofit HID build is objectively the best bang for the buck at the moment. IMO it's not just saving some cash but solving a problem by using quality components, adapting them into an application that has no off the shelf solution and the resulting warm and fuzzy feeling. The "built, not bought" -mentality, which I happen to (selectively) like.
 

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Discussion Starter #326 (Edited)
AWD CV AXLE INFO!​

NOTE. If you have an AWD VAN.

THESE are the PARTS NUMBERS you NEED to have for your CV axles to fit your van.


The AWD REAR's are one of a kind as far as I know. So you won't get those mixed up.

DRIVERS SIDE
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle/duralast-gold-cv-axle/831929_0_0_78655

Part Number: 8259N
Alternate Part Number: 8259N


Passenger side.
https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle/duralast-gold-cv-axle/402656_0_0_78656
Part Number: B10122N
Alternate Part Number: 10122N




Specifications:

IBJ Splines: 150mm
OAL mm: 538
OBJ Splines: 33




----------------------------------------
--------------------------------------

DB electrical
CV Axle for Chrysler Town ! Country 1996-2004 All Front Passenger Side
Item Number: CH-8-22-215A Brand: DB Electrical
https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/cv-axle-for-chrysler-town-country-1996-2004-all-front-passenger-side.html


CARDONE: Cardone: 603251 ? (But don't quote me on it MAKE SURE AND CHECK FIRST)


THey should look like this:




So... I guess I can either reuse my old one. Try to use an older one.. (one vibrates, the other... seems to have the bearing pack coming out of the inner side. )

Crap. Have to be at work at 7, and I still have my power steering to do.. Looks like I am doing my alternator another day. And doing CV axles again ANOTHER DAY. DAMN.
 

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Discussion Starter #327
EL Lighting DONE RIGHT.


Yes its a video. DEAL WITH IT.



Just don't open the SLIDING DOORS. :)

But this is just a quick test of what I will be doing later this week. I have to find a way to make it look SEAMLESS. I need to put one of those 12V contacts so that I can run EL wire on the sliding doors. This would be SO MUCH Easier on the 3th gen with power sliding doors. I wish I could get that Cable track they use. I might look into seeing if I can retrofit, OR.. Just ad the contacts just like the ones that run the Door locks.
 

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Discussion Starter #328

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Discussion Starter #329
THread update.

Power Steering Installed, and Overdrive pulley on Alternator INSTALLED. WHOO HOO!

Full thread post on this soon.

Also engine bay clean with Dollar tree oven cleaner ,and Cleaning my DAMN windows. I caught Levy smoking in my car again. :cool:

Also, LED light reviews of h1, h3 and h11 bulbs. EL light panel Inverter replacement and install. Also a Box to make it silent but still get some cooling and curcuit board modifications.

Installation of LED bulbs in the TUrn signal locations, and Wiper tray Maintenance, and Spin on Oil filter for the transmision. Flushing of the coolant and HVAC system. AND. Heated washer fluid and Spray Nozzles if I can find them.

Cooling duct for the stock Denso and Fab of the alatneror bottom bracket H mount. (still waiting to hear back from any alternator shop that wants to sell me the Plug and play connector for the 4 pin AD-244. And get the AD-244 alternator tested at a shop.

Also Seat bracket fix, Hybrid car battery Install, extra ground cable to alt install, and How I made a Custom Spacer for the Denso alt since I found mine in a fish tank. . Long story.

Almost forgot. My side panels are worn on my doors. Forgot what they were called. Going to be refinishing those today for installation of "limo lights" or THeater lights whatever they are called. Using a COB LED panel and some other stuff to make it flush mount and see if I can find some kind of trim or molding that makes it look factory. THe Clear coat is gone so Going to fix that.

Also License plate light bulb is out. so .. yea. LED time. FIx the front headlight, and I have a bad ground on the passenger side.

Got a way to retap the screws for the tranny pan, and Replace my cup holder. with a NICE modded unit.

The Light switch is starting to show some wear, so I will be ordering a new part for that sooon.

And installation of Fiber Optics on the tailgate with laser emitter and Some cool other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #330
Oh the work days are long and I hate shipping things with UPS. Not USPS. UPS.

So, I wanted to be able to do what I originally planned with the top rood rack. The Photos just will not come out unless I Open the exposure to about Infinity and set up my tripod. But I was able to make the EL WIRE CAR WASH PROOF! NO KIDDING!

USed hot glue in some weak areas, but the seam just fit right in like it was stock.

I was thinking about getting the FLAT el Wire.. But I could not find a way to adhere it in a way that would make it weather proof, and car wash proof. ANd OH BOY does it look GREAT! I got just the lines and the look I wanted and it is PERFECT!

Its not very often I really just go WOW! But today. OH YEA BABY!

I only got one really good pic with an almost 1.5 second exposure.

 

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Discussion Starter #331

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Discussion Starter #333
Less then I have spent on being Divorced raped and the cost is cheaper then what women did to my life. BY FAR. **** even spent less time too.
 

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Discussion Starter #334
THank you Advance Auto Parts! Getting my CV axle in today. NO more Space Dildo. (Is shakes like on when I drive. My sister came up with the name. )

Pics of the install so far. Video goes over some other stuff. I should have pics tonight of how the EL wires look on the back tail gate. Still waiting for parts from CHINA.

SO far, Got all 4 of the back up lights working. 2 at 130W and 2 at 100w. I am going to need a Boost converter to get these up to 16v so I get a real 12000 LUMENS back up

I REALLY wanted to put the HID's back there or the LED h3 I got. But I could just not get them to fit where the small Halogen bulbs fit best. Boosting the supply voltage to 18v should give me 14.4- 15 volts on the bulbs. They wll run as high as 16v. That should in theory get the bulbs to actually do their rated output and then some.

It took me all night to get these in there safely and securely and mount them properly. And Aim them. Still its better, but Like I said. You need about 25,000 Lumens to see back through the TInted window. I have pretty much reached the limit of the STOCK omicron mini relays that I used. Once it is on a Boost convertor its not going to be a problem. I will get a full 18-19 volts of output so that the bulbs get 14.5-16 volts DC. I did the wires so that I could Isolate the fogs for this very reason. Still. NOT BAD when on start up, and a FULL charged off battery, i can do 14.3 volts at the back of the car . So about 12.5 - 13.1 volts measured at Meter. Draw from each bulbs is about 8 amps-10 amps.

SO here are some photos. Not all but some.













 

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Discussion Starter #335















 

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Discussion Starter #336
 

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Discussion Starter #337
Front grill.

Tried to do this with Fiber Optics. NEVER could get the right look. The even glow of EL wire and the softness and radineness to it just make this perfect.












Now its time to just time to hook them up permanently. I want to install a 12v Day night sensor. That way they don't just stay on all day.

Still waiting for the rest of the stuff to come in from china.
 

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Discussion Starter #338
Well just test drove the new CV axle. Well. Hmm.

I have a few things that bothered me about the new axle. Joint at goes into the transmission was REALLY lose. Like. REALLY REALLY LOOSE. The Wheel side was a bit stiffer.

Well, it said it was new. But. just does not feel right to me being new. It should be tight. This thing wobbles around like Kids on crack.

Still, it works. Vibrations gone, and it goes ALL THE WAY INTO THE TRANSMISION. GOOD!

Now its time to fill all those AWD parts. I think there are about 3 places that need fluid. So going to get those knocked out tonight. Then go on a cruise.

Man, I REALLY want this.




But damn. $300 bucks! WHOA! NOT going to happen. ITS not THAT NICE. I could do better.

How about taking your stock OEM badge and doing this?
Will have a write up on this soon. And MINE is going to LOOK BETTER! (I hope.. )

Next is going to be the Rear Wing. I want one with an LED. I know ONE place that sells these. I might have to save up for that one. OR.. Make my own CUSTOM ONE! :biggrin:

OF course. A RUSky DID HIS FIRST!. DAMN YOU ! I Wanted to be FIRST! :biggrin:



Well, time to start topping off the oil in the driveline. GOt all the stuff from Hazard fraught I needed. Power steering flush and filter will have to wait till tomorrow. And a New filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #339
Oh the RAIN GUARDS! Those are going to be on soon as well. Got them for $14 bucks! And in SUPER GREAT CONDITION!

Got the 3M double sided tape, and will install those this weekend.
 

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You are one busy DIYer. I hope that "cruise" is on a ship to give you a break (not brake). :)
 
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