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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2014 DGC R/T 113,300 miles. I have replaced the Thermostat (the housing was cracked in center). Now it runs hot within 2 miles. It loses coolant when it runs hot. Not leaks visible. Fan I'm not sure if it runs, It seems to be. What can be the cause? I can't find it. Thank you for any help!


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Make sure you check coolant level in the radiator, not in the recovery bottle. Coolant should be up to the radiator neck.

If coolant level is ok, then it has to be your radiator fan.

When engine overheats, fan should be running.

Fan connector often fails, make sure is tight and not burned.
 

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2019 DGCGT flex fuel, 15K miles.
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My 2014 DGC R/T 113,300 miles. I have replaced the Thermostat (the housing was cracked in center). Now it runs hot within 2 miles. It loses coolant when it runs hot. Not leaks visible. Fan I'm not sure if it runs, It seems to be. What can be the cause? I can't find it. Thank you for any help!


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Who replaced the thermostat? Was the correct coolant used?
 

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Did you open the bleeder at the thermostat when you replaced it? Coolant crossover (what the thermostat mounts to) and heater Y pipes are common leak sources. Coolant on the transmission may mean a busted oil cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I replaced it with a OEM part. Because the original housing developed a crack. and yes correct coolant. Dealer replaced oil cooler 3 years ago. The Y hose is not leaking yet.
 

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There's coolant in the cooler. If it breaks, it can leak. When mine broke, it leaked oil, which ended up pooling in a few places, including the trans. Coolant would do the same.
 
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Are you overfilling your reservoir?

By overheating, I assume per temperature gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No overfilling reservoir. Radiator hose not getting hot. And I found radiator cap losing pressure. I did not have the time to look at anything else today.
 

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Top radiator hose is not getting hot ..... but you are losing coolant. Out the reservoir?

Interesting.

Water pump? Bad thermostat? Blockage?

Does anyone have trouble with air in the 3.6L's system. Never was a problem with the 3.3L or 3.8L, in my experience. They bled themselves very well.
 
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Won't a bad radiator cap cause overheating? Never had that issue, but I thought it could be a cause.
 
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Sounds like you have air in system. Must open bleeder to get air out.
My thoughts too. Open it until coolant starts coming out and then plug it back up. Top off and run until it warms up, then top off once it cools.
Won't a bad radiator cap cause overheating? Never had that issue, but I thought it could be a cause.
Yes, this dumps coolant to the reservoir and would let the coolant boil instead of pressurize.
 
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No air needs to be manually purged if coolant level is close to thermostat.

Once thermostat opens, air will be purged automatically.

If only replacing thermostat, no air needs to be purged, period!

No such thing as air in the system if thermostat is opening/closing, not on our systems.
 

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No air needs to be manually purged if coolant level is close to thermostat.

Once thermostat opens, air will be purged automatically.

If only replacing thermostat, no air needs to be purged, period!

No such thing as air in the system if thermostat is opening/closing, not on our systems.
Close to radiator cap?
 

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Despite Levy's repeated insistence that the bleeder screw is not necessary, many of us know better. The bleeder allows the air behind the thermostat to come out so that the coolant actually touches the thermostat and allows it to open. You can run it until it eventually opens, but it will take much longer and could cause heat damage.
 
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