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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2008 Town & Country has been intermittently in limp mode since I had my radiator and transmission pan replaced at my local dealer in July. They’ve had the van for a total of 6 weeks this summer, and claim they can’t repair what’s causing limp mode because there’s no code. Help! Wondering if limp mode has anything to do with repairs (engine light came on right after transmission and radiator repair-dealer claims it’s an emissions code-?). Taking it to a different mechanic tomorrow-what do I tell them that might help them diagnose and repair this?
 

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that sucks..

Myself been a technician (electronics) like to get all the information possible before I start and t most of it away - because half of what I get told about what has been done is not quiet right so find it much more effective to start from scratch.
The most important thing I like is a detailed description of the symptoms. With out the “I think it’s related to ….” Stick to what you know.

is it realy going into limp mode or just running badly. When does is happen?
How often?
If it’s something that happens only when idling for a while or driving on the free way.

It’s really tempting to give an analysis but sometimes the customer might be right but more often in general their assessment is wrong.

If monkeys have already looked at it knowing what they have touched is important. not so the new guy can eliminate issues but because they probably caused more issues. If parts have been replaced (obviously unnecessarily because the problem is not fixed) haveing the old parts is sometimes handy because they may offer clues to what the real problem is.



Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that sucks..

Myself been a technician (electronics) like to get all the information possible before I start and t most of it away - because half of what I get told about what has been done is not quiet right so find it much more effective to start from scratch.
The most important thing I like is a detailed description of the symptoms. With out the “I think it’s related to ….” Stick to what you know.

is it realy going into limp mode or just running badly. When does is happen?
How often?
If it’s something that happens only when idling for a while or driving on the free way.

It’s really tempting to give an analysis but sometimes the customer might be right but more often in general their assessment is wrong.

If monkeys have already looked at it knowing what they have touched is important. not so the new guy can eliminate issues but because they probably caused more issues. If parts have been replaced (obviously unnecessarily because the problem is not fixed) haveing the old parts is sometimes handy because they may offer clues to what the real problem is.



Good luck
that sucks..

Myself been a technician (electronics) like to get all the information possible before I start and t most of it away - because half of what I get told about what has been done is not quiet right so find it much more effective to start from scratch.
The most important thing I like is a detailed description of the symptoms. With out the “I think it’s related to ….” Stick to what you know.

is it realy going into limp mode or just running badly. When does is happen?
How often?
If it’s something that happens only when idling for a while or driving on the free way.

It’s really tempting to give an analysis but sometimes the customer might be right but more often in general their assessment is wrong.

If monkeys have already looked at it knowing what they have touched is important. not so the new guy can eliminate issues but because they probably caused more issues. If parts have been replaced (obviously unnecessarily because the problem is not fixed) haveing the old parts is sometimes handy because they may offer clues to what the real problem is.



Good luck
Many thanks for your reply. I’m going to take the service report from the dealership. They’re the ones who called it limp mode. All I know is that when it happened (I had driven one hour highway, all was fine, then got back into it an hour later to head home), the motor sounded loud, like it was racing, and at 38 mph, my tachometer was reading 5. The only time the tach would go down was when I took my foot off the gas. It was slow going getting home. The next day, I drove it (no highway) to the shop, and it was fine (gears shifted, tach at 1.5 or so). Dealership said they checked the transmission fluid and it was full. No transmission codes. They’ve driven it trying to replicate it or get a code, and nothing.
 

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Limp mode and no codes stored. Interesting. Doesn't sound right. Sounds like it may be going into neutral. Limp mode should be keeping the transmission in a lower gear so you can mousy along. It a "safe" mode for the transmission to operate under.

Your speedometer is working okay when this happens. Anything going on with the gauges when this happens, other than the high rpm?

Which transmission do you have? 41TE or 62TE? Why the transmission pan replacement? Did they replace the transmission cooler with the radiator replacement? Something about that work caused your problem, apparently.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Limp mode and no codes stored. Interesting. Doesn't sound right. Sounds like it may be going into neutral. Limp mode should be keeping the transmission in a lower gear so you can mousy along. It a "safe" mode for the transmission to operate under.

Your speedometer is working okay when this happens. Anything going on with the gauges when this happens, other than the high rpm?

Which transmission do you have? 41TE or 62TE? Why the transmission pan replacement? Did they replace the transmission cooler with the radiator replacement? Something about that work caused your problem, apparently.
Thank you for your reply. Yes, the speedometer and other gauges were working fine. The AC even stayed on during what the dealer called ‘limp mode’. I have seriously wondered if the work they did replacing the transmission pan (they said was rusted, and needed replaced) and radiator caused this issue. The engine light came on shortly after that (they claim is due to an unrelated emissions issue), and has stayed on. All they’ve done to fix the problem in two-and-a-half weeks is drive it 70-80 miles (trying to replicate limp mode), check the transmission fluid (they claimed there wasn’t a leak), and put the code reader in (they claimed there’s no transmission code). Sigh… I asked them to check the line from radiator to transmission to see if it was crimped or contaminated, and told them how, based on a mechanic friend’s suggestion, and all they did was drive it another 30 miles, saying if that was the problem, it would’ve thrown the car in limp mode again. It didn’t. So… no warranty repair, and on to a new mechanic - new diagnosis fees, repair fees, etc. Never going back to that dealership again (took 4 weeks earlier this summer to diagnose and work on my van, another 2.5 weeks to now tell me since they can’t replicate limp mode or get a code, they can’t fix it, won’t look into whether earlier repair could be the cause…argh!). So frustrated, I called Chrysler customer service line yesterday - man I talked with agreed this is unacceptable, and said he noted that on dealer’s ‘file’, but that’s all he can do. Any recourse or reimbursement I might seek from the work earlier this summer will have to be taken up with the dealership itself, said there’s nothing he can do. SO frustrating.
 

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Did they change the filter when they changed the pan? do a flush?

The transmission will go into limp mode to protect itself. What is it protecting itself from is the question.

A bad speed sensor can cause limp mode as well, but yours appears to be working okay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did they change the filter when they changed the pan? do a flush?

The transmission will go into limp mode to protect itself. What is it protecting itself from is the question.

A bad speed sensor can cause limp mode as well, but yours appears to be working okay.
The man at the dealership said they did replace the filter and flush the transmission. I was told several years ago at a Tireman (had it in for different service) that I have at least one bad speed sensor. But I was told it wasn’t a necessary repair. At that time, I didn’t have the extra money to spend to have them check all four sensors, etc. I’m now wondering if that’s what’s causing this - perhaps more sensors have gone out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The man at the dealership said they did replace the filter and flush the transmission. I was told several years ago at a Tireman (had it in for different service) that I have at least one bad speed sensor. But I was told it wasn’t a necessary repair. At that time, I didn’t have the extra money to spend to have them check all four sensors, etc. I’m now wondering if that’s what’s causing this - perhaps more sensors have gone out?
The speed sensor(s) I was told were bad were located on the wheels, from what I remember.
 

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The speed sensor(s) I was told were bad were located on the wheels, from what I remember.
Speed sensors on the wheels are for abs and such, they’re called wheel speed sensors and don’t have an effect on limp mode. I believe the speed sensors that are being referenced by Jeepman are in the transmission and they can cause issues with limp mode.
 

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Speed sensors on the wheels are for abs and such, they’re called wheel speed sensors and don’t have an effect on limp mode. I believe the speed sensors that are being referenced by Jeepman are in the transmission and they can cause issues with limp mode.
Yes, you are correct. Thanks.

To the OP:
They did a transmission "flush"? They charged you for it? I don't believe that's a Chrysler recommended procedure. Only mention of "flush" in your Owner's Manual Maintenance Section is for coolant, nothing else. In fact, Chrysler has warned their Dealerships against doing flushes and the chemicals used in flushes via a Service Bulletin. Replacing the pan should just be a pan drop and a fluid/filter change with a new pan installed. Too bad the new Mopar pan doesn't have a drain plug though.

I doubt that Chrysler would have authorized that flush or that the equipment used was Chrysler approved.

This may or may not have anything to do with your problem which started after they did maintenance/repair work on your vehicle, but is worth mentioning to Chrysler in any discussions you have with them.

They worked on your transmission, which was working fine before, but now isn't. Sounds related to me.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Speed sensors on the wheels are for abs and such, they’re called wheel speed sensors and don’t have an effect on limp mode. I believe the speed sensors that are being referenced by Jeepman are in the transmission and they can cause issues with limp mode.
Thank you - learning as I go!
 

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Did they put the correct trans fluid type back in it? Does a trans relearn need to happen?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No way to know that. New mechanic said the same thing as the dealership - no transmission code, no repair. Apparently he’s not going to look for a reason limp mode, or whatever it was, happened. I asked him to try and get the engine light off (fix emissions issue) because I don’t feel comfortable driving around with the light on, not knowing if there’s a real problem or not. Really not sure what to do next - keep driving, and hope it doesn’t happen again, take it to yet another shop, sell it.
 

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Do you have a code reader to find out what the actual code is? Emissions issues most likely can cause limp mode but knowing the code itself will help a lot. If you don’t have a code reader, you can get the codes to show in the screen near the speedometer and tachometer. I don’t know how but there’s videos on it and it’s been talked about on the forum. The check engine light and limp mode are very likely to be linked. If there’s an issue with the engine that’s causing the light, the car will want to protect itself and limit the power.

I suggest going to a better mechanic. This is hard to do since you don’t know who’s good or bad but reviews and word of mouth should help with finding someone reliable. Selling the car should be a last resort, especially considering the insane car market right now. If I were you I would try to get the problem fixed if it isn’t a major job but you know the history and the value of your van so this decision is yours.

Without any other information it’s very difficult to formulate an answer about potential cause for the limp mode condition.
 

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I just read over this whole discussion again to get a better understanding of what’s going on.

In an earlier post you mentioned that while going 38 mph, the tach was at 5k. Letting off the gas allowed the revs to come down. This DOES NOT sound like limp mode, if it is that it doesn’t make sense to me. Limp mode would likely limit the the speed and revs. Revs would likely max out at around 3k. Limp mode would mean that the computer is trying to CUT power, it wouldn’t allow you to push the vehicle all the way to 5k.

This is just an educated guess but I think your trans might be slipping, or something else is wrong with the transmission causing it to not “go.” Reason 1: the dealership performed a flush - which is not recommended for this transmission. Reason 2: the engine revs high when on the gas but drops when letting go.

Jeepman’s post about the car potentially going into neutral has got me thinking about this and his theory makes sense, the car revs up like it’s in neutral and doesn’t go.

The flush may or may not be linked to this but maybe the flush has damaged the transmission by moving around all the fluid and crud which could have been what’s keeping the transmission from doing this before.

Would it be possible for you to get this on video? Maybe have a passenger start filming when this happens and show the gauges and the sounds the car is making, plus letting off the gas which allows the revs to drop.

I would advise you to start looking for a pattern, if there is any. What do you do or can you do to make the car go into “limp mode.” What speed are you going when this happens? What’s the engine temperature (check the gauge). Are you on the highway or in the city? Are you accelerating hard or normally? If you can find out what’s causing limp mode then you’ll be able to recreate it for a mechanic.

When my lock actuator was going out it made a loud buzz and for the first day I had no clue what the noise was or where it was from. Paying attention to detail, I realized that pressing the lock button caused the buzzing to occur. Finding the pattern will allow for a fix to be found.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Do you have a code reader to find out what the actual code is? Emissions issues most likely can cause limp mode but knowing the code itself will help a lot. If you don’t have a code reader, you can get the codes to show in the screen near the speedometer and tachometer. I don’t know how but there’s videos on it and it’s been talked about on the forum. The check engine light and limp mode are very likely to be linked. If there’s an issue with the engine that’s causing the light, the car will want to protect itself and limit the power.

I suggest going to a better mechanic. This is hard to do since you don’t know who’s good or bad but reviews and word of mouth should help with finding someone reliable. Selling the car should be a last resort, especially considering the insane car market right now. If I were you I would try to get the problem fixed if it isn’t a major job but you know the history and the value of your van so this decision is yours.

Without any other information it’s very difficult to formulate an answer about potential cause for the limp mode condition.
Thank you SO MUCH! I don’t have a code reader, but I requested the dealership give me a list of codes- there are 7 of them, 1 active, and the rest stored. I have that list, along with the service history, which I gave to the new mechanic this morning. He said the dealership cleared all the codes but emissions. None of the codes are transmission codes. The codes are:

HVAC B102E - rear blend request input circuit low (active)
ABS - C2205 - steering angle sensor, internal (stored)
PCM - PO456 - evap system small leak (stored)
PCM - PO455 - evap system leak detected - large leak (stored)
SAS - C1241 - steering angle sensor velocity performance (stored)
TIPMCGW - B1640 - front right turn lamp control circuit high (stored)
DMFL - B2578 - driver window not calibrated/lost calibration

I have had the ABS and traction control lights come on for many years - a bell used to also come on, usually as I went through a roundabout, or make any kind of turn while the car is moving (rather than a stop and turn). I’ve also had an intermittent grinding sound when turning left, and sometimes it’s like something’s grabbing the wheel. This has been scary, and I took it to AAA last year for that problem. They said I needed left rear bearing - that did not take care of the problem, and in fact, the dealership noted in their paperwork that they heard noise coming from that bearing when they drove my van trying to replicate limp mode.

The mechanic I took it to this morning had wonderful reviews online. One of my brothers had very positive experiences with another location of this same company. So, I was very hopeful, and part of me is still hopeful, he’ll fix the emissions issue, and through that, there will be no more limp mode.

I really appreciate all your comments - many good ideas. I just have to find a mechanic willing to put those ideas into practice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just read over this whole discussion again to get a better understanding of what’s going on.

In an earlier post you mentioned that while going 38 mph, the tach was at 5k. Letting off the gas allowed the revs to come down. This DOES NOT sound like limp mode, if it is that it doesn’t make sense to me. Limp mode would likely limit the the speed and revs. Revs would likely max out at around 3k. Limp mode would mean that the computer is trying to CUT power, it wouldn’t allow you to push the vehicle all the way to 5k.

This is just an educated guess but I think your trans might be slipping, or something else is wrong with the transmission causing it to not “go.” Reason 1: the dealership performed a flush - which is not recommended for this transmission. Reason 2: the engine revs high when on the gas but drops when letting go.

Jeepman’s post about the car potentially going into neutral has got me thinking about this and his theory makes sense, the car revs up like it’s in neutral and doesn’t go.

The flush may or may not be linked to this but maybe the flush has damaged the transmission by moving around all the fluid and crud which could have been what’s keeping the transmission from doing this before.

Would it be possible for you to get this on video? Maybe have a passenger start filming when this happens and show the gauges and the sounds the car is making, plus letting off the gas which allows the revs to drop.

I would advise you to start looking for a pattern, if there is any. What do you do or can you do to make the car go into “limp mode.” What speed are you going when this happens? What’s the engine temperature (check the gauge). Are you on the highway or in the city? Are you accelerating hard or normally? If you can find out what’s causing limp mode then you’ll be able to recreate it for a mechanic.

When my lock actuator was going out it made a loud buzz and for the first day I had no clue what the noise was or where it was from. Paying attention to detail, I realized that pressing the lock button caused the buzzing to occur. Finding the pattern will allow for a fix to be found.

Good luck
Many thanks! I don’t normally have any passengers, but I will record on my phone next time (if there is a next time) this happens.
 
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