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Is Oil Filter Housing a Fragile Part

26K views 59 replies 24 participants last post by  Sienile 
#1 ·
2011 Town & Country Limited w/keyless ignition
Just wondering how often I can expect this $900 repair. Bought mine used, drove it for one year, changed the oil once at the 6 month interval. It's never used or leaked oil. At one year mark, stupidly in retrospect, took it to a Jiffy Lube, enticed by a coupon. Picked it up all seemed fine until the next day I was on the side of the road with a low oil warning. Dipstick indicated NO oil. Got a few quarts, drove it home and it was near empty again. Discovered heavy leak somewhere underneath. Took it back to Jiffy Lube thinking maybe they didn't tighten something up properly. They refilled it and said "you have an oil leak" No ****, Sherlock I didn't before I brought it in here. They claimed it was nothing due to anything they did. Took it to a shop who said the oil filter housing is leaking and replacement is only remedy. $900.00, this part requires lots of other things be taken off/apart to get to. Rather simple once you get to it. Anyway, some research seems to me failure of this part is rather common and I've seen some comment that it is fragile and could be damaged by oil filter changes if not done with proper care. Others say it is just another poorly designed system/part by Chrysler which of course they won't correct or recall. Jiffy Lube continues to deny any culpability and since I have nothing but circumstatntial evidence, I have not pursued it further with them or legally. I'm afraid to get the oil changed now and its due. Do you think paying the cost at a dealer for an oil change would be worth it and safer? They can be idiots too though.
 
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#2 ·
I have always gone to the dealer, since I saw early on that these housings and the little cage for the return valve break easily. I figure my chance of the tech knowing how to handle the filter change is better than with just any jackleg at a quickchange or general repair shop, but I know chances of a screwup are not zero. Nonetheless, there is still always the possibility that the dealer tech is new or just careless. I've experienced an overtightened drain plug at the dealer, so using them is not a total guarantee things will be done correctly; it only gives much better odds.
One thing to consider besides price is the quality of the oil & filter used. With a dealer you're pretty much guaranteed to get quality products.
 
#3 ·
I have always gone to the dealer, since I saw early on that these housings and the little cage for the return valve break easily. I figure my chance of the tech knowing how to handle the filter change is better than with just any jackleg at a quickchange or general repair shop, but I know chances of a screwup are not zero. Nonetheless, there is still always the possibility that the dealer tech is new or just careless. I've experienced an overtightened drain plug at the dealer, so using them is not a total guarantee things will be done correctly; it only gives much better odds.
One thing to consider besides price is the quality of the oil & filter used. With a dealer you're pretty much guaranteed to get quality products.
Thanks that is good advice and appreciated. If its really that fragile I may just do it myself. I'm really past the point where I want to mess with cars anymore., but it may be best to at least take on this task.
 
#4 ·
I dont think there is that much of a difference in price for the oil change between Jiffy barf and the dealer , you just have schedule an appointment at the dealer though some Chrysler dealers have express lanes now for this so there is no difference . Agree with previous poster , the dealer will change the oil and every chrysler dealer then knows who did the last change and if something is broken like this you have something to stand on . That being said they came out with a whole bunch of these things that were faulty in model year 2014 . I had all changes done at the dealer and this part cracked along with many other people . Luckily it was covered under the 100000 mile engine warranty . I agree with you though this is a crap part though they are far from the only one doing it this way now . these things do not have to be that tight , just tight enough for the o ring to seal not so it is getting ready to crack the plastic .
 
#5 ·
Just wondering how often I can expect this $900 repair. Discovered heavy leak somewhere underneath....Took it to a shop who said the oil filter housing is leaking....$900.00...it is fragile and could be damaged by oil filter changes if not done with proper care. Others say it is just another poorly designed system/part by Chrysler which of course they won't correct or recall.... I'm afraid to get the oil changed now and its due. Do you think paying the cost at a dealer for an oil change would be worth it and safer? They can be idiots too though.
Nor very often. I never had a problem on any of my 5 Gen. Minivans, just do it correctly.

Is not poorly designed, just use proper tools and do not over tight.
 
#6 ·
The part is an issue on early 2014 only due to a design change that year. The failures you read about were probably all on 2024. Failure like you had on a 2011 is very rare.
 
#7 ·
I don't know-- now I'm learning of a "oil filter bypass valve" that is inside the filter cannister and is inside the filter wall- meaning the empty center- that "usually" breaks-- which if broken, prevents oil from circulating through the filter resulting in your oil not being filtered, of course, the dirty oil circulating through the engine. I'd rather it not have the valve and have the engine shut down if the filter were to get clogged- much easier, cheaper, DIY fix to merely change the filter.
 
#8 ·
Saticon, I have heard of that failure with the valve breaking but it isn't common either. It also isn't what happened to yours. The fact is with a new one installed you should not worry about it failing again anytime soon. It just is not a common issue.
 
#11 ·
Every time I change my oil filter I pay strict attention to what I am doing, say a prayer, cross my fingers and hope that the cheap piece of over-engineered plastic doesn't leak when I'm done
So far my prayers and offerings to the gods have been answered.
The 3.6 is a prime example of the need for a simple spin-on filter adapter.
 
#12 ·
Thanks guys, I love this forum and appreciate all the answers and information. I'm taking mine to the dealer as I checked and its only 25 plus the old "shop fee" and of course tax, which makes it close to the discounters anyway. I am going to be the cranky old man customer that asks the tech. beforehand does he know of the issues and to please exercise all due care. Then they'll usher me off to the waiting room and offer me a cup of coffee and say "now, now ole' fella, don't you worry, we'll take good care of you" and proceed to do what they always do.
 
#17 ·
This guy says 18 ft/lb for the filter and 20 ft/lb for the drain plug
 
#19 ·
I tried using a torque wrench, but couldn't. I have 2, one starts at 50 ft-lb (obviously too high) and the other goes up to 250 in-lb (about 21 ft-lb). When you screw on the cap until it stops turning easily, it is already over 21 ft-lbs. Needed a bit more to snug up.

Judging from how hard it was to loosen on the first change, I'd say it was way over 20 ft-lb from the factory. Second change it was easy to loosen. (This was on my Journey 3.6, haven't gone a change yet on my GC)
 
#20 ·
I find when engine is hot (which is ideal to drain oil) the cap is very hard to remove, despite when previously re-installed, was not over tightened. I started doing "cold" oil changes, cap comes off easy, but used oil does not drain as well.
 
#27 ·
Just loosen the 710 cap, then put it back on only hand tight, just enough so that oil does not come out. Run engine to get the oil hot, then drain the hot oil (be careful is will be hot), then change the oil filter.
That way you have removed the oil filter cap when engine is cold, but you have a hot engine to drain the oil, problem solved.
 
#21 ·
One reason I prefer to do my own oil changes, with that plastic housing looking fragile.
I don't know how many cars I've worked on and found overtightened nuts/bolts etc.
I also have a spare bypass valve in case the original breaks, but I think the best way to avoid that happening is by pulling the filter straight up out of the housing. Easier if you get the air intake tube out of the way.
 
#22 ·
2011 T&C touring L 138k miles - Just came on here to do a search on the oil filter housing/oil cooler because my van just overheated last week and left me stranded. First the heater stopped working and a few minutes later there was smoke. I was not happy. This was two weeks after replacing the TIP module for a grand. Now another grand for what by all accounts seems a poor design decision. Very frustrated and hoping this is the last of it. Grease monkey said the design requires minor tweak just about every time you change the filter and thus it's bound to fail at some point. Those who say go back to the dealer for oil changes... well, they've kinda lost my trust after they couldn't identify the TIP module problem, which should have been fairly obvious considering it's been a big issue for Chryslers of that generation.
 
#24 ·
2011 T&C touring L 138k miles ... Grease monkey said the design requires minor tweak just about every time you change the filter and thus it's bound to fail at some point. ...
The early design would leak more than the new design (2014+), so consider upgrading to a newer model. I'm using a 2017 Pacifica's on mine simply because it was the cheapest Mopar unit I could find. Just swap over the sensor that doesn't match because one of them won't connect otherwise. Afterwards, you will use a different filter than the original. All filters 2014+ are the same too.

Usually the cracked case is because of people over-tightening it. No "minor tweak", just seat and stop. Trying to go beyond that is unnecessary and risks either cracking the case or getting the cap stuck to where it will crack getting it off.

I swapped mine out at 103k as a preventative measure, it had no leaks. I did every oil change myself since I bought it at 33k. I replaced it because the old design has issue with leaking between the metal and plastic parts of the cooler that happens usually between 100-120k. Didn't want it to sneak up on me. New design has bolts holding it down along the center, so this is less likely to become an issue - and I haven't seen one yet.
 
#25 ·
I have an early built 2014, whose oil coolers tend to crack. I think I'll change mine out proactively if it lasts until my 1st sparkplug change. 70,000 miles so far.
 
#26 ·
2011 Town & Country Limited w/keyless ignition
Just wondering how often I can expect this $900 repair. Bought mine used, drove it for one year, changed the oil once at the 6 month interval. It's never used or leaked oil. At one year mark, stupidly in retrospect, took it to a Jiffy Lube, enticed by a coupon. Picked it up all seemed fine until the next day I was on the side of the road with a low oil warning. Dipstick indicated NO oil. Got a few quarts, drove it home and it was near empty again. Discovered heavy leak somewhere underneath. Took it back to Jiffy Lube thinking maybe they didn't tighten something up properly. They refilled it and said "you have an oil leak" No ****, Sherlock I didn't before I brought it in here. They claimed it was nothing due to anything they did. Took it to a shop who said the oil filter housing is leaking and replacement is only remedy. $900.00, this part requires lots of other things be taken off/apart to get to. Rather simple once you get to it. Anyway, some research seems to me failure of this part is rather common and I've seen some comment that it is fragile and could be damaged by oil filter changes if not done with proper care. Others say it is just another poorly designed system/part by Chrysler which of course they won't correct or recall. Jiffy Lube continues to deny any culpability and since I have nothing but circumstatntial evidence, I have not pursued it further with them or legally. I'm afraid to get the oil changed now and its due. Do you think paying the cost at a dealer for an oil change would be worth it and safer? They can be idiots too though.
If anybody else has this issue when you get it repaired request that they replace it with a brand called Dorman, they make a all metal replacement that will not crack in the future
 
#29 ·
I find a hot cap is looser than a cool cap. But the plastic is also weaker when hot, so be careful regardless.
 
#31 ·
Changing the oil cooler is a max 1hr job on your driveway and you will use 8mm, 10mm and 13mm sockets and a few extensions and while it looks intimidating its stupid simple. Couple of bolts and the manifold comes off. I would save yourself the 900$ bill and go do it yourself especially if you own some tools and arent scared to wrench on your engine. If not then you have no choice.
 
#33 ·
My instructions also call for an E8 socket to remove the Aluminum oil cooler from the plastic housing. Since I have the Dorman replacement housing, I have to retain the old cooler and install it on the new housing. I also have read that the time to do job so more like 3 hours, and maybe more depending on how much oil cleanup is required.
 
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