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Discussion Starter #1
2011 Town & Country Limited w/keyless ignition
Just wondering how often I can expect this $900 repair. Bought mine used, drove it for one year, changed the oil once at the 6 month interval. It's never used or leaked oil. At one year mark, stupidly in retrospect, took it to a Jiffy Lube, enticed by a coupon. Picked it up all seemed fine until the next day I was on the side of the road with a low oil warning. Dipstick indicated NO oil. Got a few quarts, drove it home and it was near empty again. Discovered heavy leak somewhere underneath. Took it back to Jiffy Lube thinking maybe they didn't tighten something up properly. They refilled it and said "you have an oil leak" No shit, Sherlock I didn't before I brought it in here. They claimed it was nothing due to anything they did. Took it to a shop who said the oil filter housing is leaking and replacement is only remedy. $900.00, this part requires lots of other things be taken off/apart to get to. Rather simple once you get to it. Anyway, some research seems to me failure of this part is rather common and I've seen some comment that it is fragile and could be damaged by oil filter changes if not done with proper care. Others say it is just another poorly designed system/part by Chrysler which of course they won't correct or recall. Jiffy Lube continues to deny any culpability and since I have nothing but circumstatntial evidence, I have not pursued it further with them or legally. I'm afraid to get the oil changed now and its due. Do you think paying the cost at a dealer for an oil change would be worth it and safer? They can be idiots too though.
 

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2011 Town & Country Limited w/keyless ignition
Just wondering how often I can expect this $900 repair. Bought mine used, drove it for one year, changed the oil once at the 6 month interval. It's never used or leaked oil. At one year mark, stupidly in retrospect, took it to a Jiffy Lube, enticed by a coupon. Picked it up all seemed fine until the next day I was on the side of the road with a low oil warning. Dipstick indicated NO oil. Got a few quarts, drove it home and it was near empty again. Discovered heavy leak somewhere underneath. Took it back to Jiffy Lube thinking maybe they didn't tighten something up properly. They refilled it and said "you have an oil leak" No shit, Sherlock I didn't before I brought it in here. They claimed it was nothing due to anything they did. Took it to a shop who said the oil filter housing is leaking and replacement is only remedy. $900.00, this part requires lots of other things be taken off/apart to get to. Rather simple once you get to it. Anyway, some research seems to me failure of this part is rather common and I've seen some comment that it is fragile and could be damaged by oil filter changes if not done with proper care. Others say it is just another poorly designed system/part by Chrysler which of course they won't correct or recall. Jiffy Lube continues to deny any culpability and since I have nothing but circumstatntial evidence, I have not pursued it further with them or legally. I'm afraid to get the oil changed now and its due. Do you think paying the cost at a dealer for an oil change would be worth it and safer? They can be idiots too though.
I have always gone to the dealer, since I saw early on that these housings and the little cage for the return valve break easily. I figure my chance of the tech knowing how to handle the filter change is better than with just any jackleg at a quickchange or general repair shop, but I know chances of a screwup are not zero. Nonetheless, there is still always the possibility that the dealer tech is new or just careless. I've experienced an overtightened drain plug at the dealer, so using them is not a total guarantee things will be done correctly; it only gives much better odds.
One thing to consider besides price is the quality of the oil & filter used. With a dealer you're pretty much guaranteed to get quality products.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have always gone to the dealer, since I saw early on that these housings and the little cage for the return valve break easily. I figure my chance of the tech knowing how to handle the filter change is better than with just any jackleg at a quickchange or general repair shop, but I know chances of a screwup are not zero. Nonetheless, there is still always the possibility that the dealer tech is new or just careless. I've experienced an overtightened drain plug at the dealer, so using them is not a total guarantee things will be done correctly; it only gives much better odds.
One thing to consider besides price is the quality of the oil & filter used. With a dealer you're pretty much guaranteed to get quality products.
Thanks that is good advice and appreciated. If its really that fragile I may just do it myself. I'm really past the point where I want to mess with cars anymore., but it may be best to at least take on this task.
 

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I dont think there is that much of a difference in price for the oil change between Jiffy barf and the dealer , you just have schedule an appointment at the dealer though some Chrysler dealers have express lanes now for this so there is no difference . Agree with previous poster , the dealer will change the oil and every chrysler dealer then knows who did the last change and if something is broken like this you have something to stand on . That being said they came out with a whole bunch of these things that were faulty in model year 2014 . I had all changes done at the dealer and this part cracked along with many other people . Luckily it was covered under the 100000 mile engine warranty . I agree with you though this is a crap part though they are far from the only one doing it this way now . these things do not have to be that tight , just tight enough for the o ring to seal not so it is getting ready to crack the plastic .
 

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Just wondering how often I can expect this $900 repair. Discovered heavy leak somewhere underneath....Took it to a shop who said the oil filter housing is leaking....$900.00...it is fragile and could be damaged by oil filter changes if not done with proper care. Others say it is just another poorly designed system/part by Chrysler which of course they won't correct or recall.... I'm afraid to get the oil changed now and its due. Do you think paying the cost at a dealer for an oil change would be worth it and safer? They can be idiots too though.
Nor very often. I never had a problem on any of my 5 Gen. Minivans, just do it correctly.

Is not poorly designed, just use proper tools and do not over tight.
 

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The part is an issue on early 2014 only due to a design change that year. The failures you read about were probably all on 2024. Failure like you had on a 2011 is very rare.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't know-- now I'm learning of a "oil filter bypass valve" that is inside the filter cannister and is inside the filter wall- meaning the empty center- that "usually" breaks-- which if broken, prevents oil from circulating through the filter resulting in your oil not being filtered, of course, the dirty oil circulating through the engine. I'd rather it not have the valve and have the engine shut down if the filter were to get clogged- much easier, cheaper, DIY fix to merely change the filter.
 

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Saticon, I have heard of that failure with the valve breaking but it isn't common either. It also isn't what happened to yours. The fact is with a new one installed you should not worry about it failing again anytime soon. It just is not a common issue.
 

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Should the oil filter housing cap be tightened by hand or wrench? If the cap is tightened by wrench, the crack is inevitable.
 

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Every time I change my oil filter I pay strict attention to what I am doing, say a prayer, cross my fingers and hope that the cheap piece of over-engineered plastic doesn't leak when I'm done
So far my prayers and offerings to the gods have been answered.
The 3.6 is a prime example of the need for a simple spin-on filter adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys, I love this forum and appreciate all the answers and information. I'm taking mine to the dealer as I checked and its only 25 plus the old "shop fee" and of course tax, which makes it close to the discounters anyway. I am going to be the cranky old man customer that asks the tech. beforehand does he know of the issues and to please exercise all due care. Then they'll usher me off to the waiting room and offer me a cup of coffee and say "now, now ole' fella, don't you worry, we'll take good care of you" and proceed to do what they always do.
 

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This guy says 18 ft/lb for the filter and 20 ft/lb for the drain plug
 

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I wouldn't bother to even use a torque wrench. As I said before, that cap have an O-Ring, so just go till it seats and stop turning.

That plastic might get brittle with time.
 

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I tried using a torque wrench, but couldn't. I have 2, one starts at 50 ft-lb (obviously too high) and the other goes up to 250 in-lb (about 21 ft-lb). When you screw on the cap until it stops turning easily, it is already over 21 ft-lbs. Needed a bit more to snug up.

Judging from how hard it was to loosen on the first change, I'd say it was way over 20 ft-lb from the factory. Second change it was easy to loosen. (This was on my Journey 3.6, haven't gone a change yet on my GC)
 

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I find when engine is hot (which is ideal to drain oil) the cap is very hard to remove, despite when previously re-installed, was not over tightened. I started doing "cold" oil changes, cap comes off easy, but used oil does not drain as well.
 
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