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How to remove name badging on hatch?

3K views 12 replies 13 participants last post by  LEVY 
#1 ·
Hi.

I've got a 98 T&C, with a 97 GC hatch.
I'd just assume not have Dodge written on the back, and Chrysler on the sides and front, so I'd like to pull off the name badging on the hatch.

Any recommendations on solvents or methods to remove? The new hatch is in great shape, so I won't be painting or touching it up unless I goof up here.
Similar question for a bumper sticker on the metal hatch (original dealer sticker, I think, but it's blank white now, so I'm not sure)

Any and all tips are encouraged! Let me know what you've tried.
 
#3 ·
Dental floss and a hair dryer.
Heat the badging up with the hair dryer (or just wait for a hot sunny day) then take the dental floss and wrap it around it and start "slicing" it off. once the plastic is off, use some adhesive remover to get the rest of the goo off, then wax over the spot.
They also make plastic razor blades for scraping this stuff off.
 
#4 ·
I pulled mine off slowly by hand so I wouldn't break the badges as i'm keeping them and left the adhesive on since I couldn't care less what my van looks like.
 
#6 ·
When I de-badges my Monte Carlo years ago, I used a heat gun to soften the adhesive and there was very little residue left. I also removed the pinstripe with one of those rubber wheels you stick on a drill, so I used that to romove the residue, waxed and I was done. You will more than likely have to go to a body shop supply store to get one of theose wheels, so it may be worth it to use some GooGone or naptha instead.
 
#8 ·
Since I wasn't trying to save the badges, suffering from typical 'Chrysler Dechromatis Plasticus', I just used a pocketknife to get a corner up by poking into the raised surface and lifting away, then get a grip and rip. Once all the pieces are off, Goo Gone is my friend, and wipe with water when done. Within a matter of days, the exposed areas are blended to the rest of the tailgate. A car wash helps with the blending too.
 
#10 ·
A real heat gun with a temperature dial in the back works better than a hair dryer at removing anything like decals, stickers, appliques, and even the paint itself if you turn it up too high.
:lol:

Start at a medium-low setting (like 3 or 4-ish on a 0-9 scale at the back of a heat gun) and give it a try. I like to use a plastic scraper like those that they sell for doing bondo or the cheap plastic putty knives they sell at the discount hardware dollar store. These will give you a little bit of pry power without damaging the paint like a metal scaper or razor blade can. When using a heat gun the paint can get pretty soft so no metal scraper is a good idea at this point, and will only just conduct the heat to the paint. Factory automotive paint is really tough stuff and will usually take a fairly high setting on the heat gun although the clear coat is more easily damaged so never use more heat than just the bare minimum to take off whatever tacky sticker/decal/applique/pin-striping the factory or some misguided prior-owner schlepped all over a perfectly good paint job.

I've used a heat gun to remove this stuff from cars, trucks, bicycles, computer cases, you name it. Heat is the easiest way to do this as you just need to use enough to get the adhesive soft and it'll come right off. I've removed all sorts of things that were supposed to be impossible to remove without destroying the sticker like security/ID stickers, parking stickers, license plate month/year tags, and even Microsoft license stickers on computer cases. Heat is the answer. It'll remove anything, even the paint if you turn it up too high so only use enough to get the job done and no more. Don't get impatient and turn it right to 11! But once you get the right heat you'll know it. The stuff will come right up. Then you can hit the glue itself again if it is not cooperating until it dries up or balls up and can be simply removed by wiping it off with a rag and some goo-gone. Test the paint before using anything, especially where you have used the heat gun as it will be a little soft for a while sometimes after being heated up. It'll harden back up over time and be fine.

I hate stickers on cars/autos/bikes and the first thing I do is de-badge everything I drive. Tacky pinstripes, flames, lettering, you name it -it's all the same to me. Yuck. I get it off as soon as I can, especially dealership ads they schlep onto the back of all cars they sell. If they want to have me drive around a billboard advertisement then they better be paying me a monthly check...

I debadged my '97 T&C AWD LX the first week I had it. It's all gone, all the LX appliques, the AWD All Wheel Drive on the middle of the liftgate, the Town & Country and Chrysler Applique lettering at the bottom too. The only badgeing left on my van is the tiny front grille emblem (I might even remove that eventually but is not as ugly as the huge wings on later years -ick!) and where it says Chrysler molded into the body valence panel at the front of both doors. But you can hardly read those anymore under the bedliner armor coating. I really should have filled that with bondo before rolling the bedliner over it. I still need to hit the pin-striping and get rid of that around the windows. So tacky when you get up close enough to see it. That'll be a project for next summer when it gets warmer.
 
#13 ·
After 11 years, I doubt he's still looking for an answer.

He got his answer 11 years ago:

Dental floss and a hair dryer.
Heat the badging up with the hair dryer (or just wait for a hot sunny day) then take the dental floss and wrap it around it and start "slicing" it off. once the plastic is off, use some adhesive remover to get the rest of the goo off, then wax over the spot.
They also make plastic razor blades for scraping this stuff off.
 
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