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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
No idea what caused the damage. I would have to guess manufacturing defect or bad design.

I didn't take a lot of pictures. The main steps were pulling the side cover, valve body, drive gear, and pull the underdrive. It just took time working in the tight space.
I matched the size and curve of the teeth to the parts diagram and the low drum is the only one that looked to match. In the rebuild guide it has a chart of when each gear is engaged, and it supported the underdrive theory.

I just repeatedly searched online for pictures and info on the 62TE until I found some useful ones.

Here is link to my Google drive folder with the pictures and rebuild guide.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BxgZSMkcysSkUjFxX2ZxeGp5Nzg?usp=sharing
There was a better YouTube video, but it was deleted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jz6zlTmeQm0
 

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I removed mine not too long ago.

It is about 2 hrs. job to remove it if you know what you are doing and have your vehicle on jack stands already. Another hour or so to get your tools ready.

Another two hours to install + 1 more hour to clean and put up your tools.

Not funny at all.

Hi I am handy and only have jack stands. You say the time that it took you to remove the tranny is about 2 hours. Is that a super rush job on a lift or are you somewhat relaxed and taking your time? Also did you have any problems get it out from underneath the vehicle using only jack stands as some people told me I will have to list the engine a few inches?

My last question is that the 62te 6 speed is supposed to be the same tranny in a promaster van but on the internet they say it does not fit however one person told me that the only difference is the bell housing thickness?
meaning I have 2017 promaster in bad physical shape used in construction short trips pulling a heavy trailer and I dont mind if it moves a little bit slower as I would be willing to change it every year if need be.
Do you think this will fit??
 

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Anyone replace their 62TE themselves?

I found a handful of gear teeth and a lot of shavings in the transmission pan when I changed the fluid and filter.
When I back up over the one inch concrete lip to my garage I get a shudder and it feels like the transmission is slipping. Forward seems fine but slow to get "in gear" when shifting between park, fwd, and reverse.

New to me (last December) 2011 GC 3.6, 75,000 miles. The fluid had a burnt color and smell.
Transmission shop quoted $4138 for reman or $2877 for used, installed including taxes and warranty.
I find it hard to justify $4138 in a van worth $9500.
Local used transmission is around $650.

Any personal experiences with this would be helpful.
Not on 62TE but have yanked and replaced a 41TE. It took me forever, but I guess I'm just slow - it was a bit of a learning curve for me. I have a ceiling anchored frame to connect my ratchet hoist to take the transmission weight while unbolting the trans, then I slid the trans out through the driver's side fender on the floor, after removing the inner plastic fender shield and strut. I just did not have a way to lift the vehicle high enough to take it out underneath but that would have been more straight forward (easier?). I don't know.
This was on a Gen 3, but I don't see a Gen 5 being that much different.
Some observations come to mind - that thing sure is heavy - there sure are a lot of bolts - I also had good access to replace my rusty power steering pump with the trans out.
What I'd recommend, and I did, was replace the crank rear oil seal while I had access. Also if you are getting a used trans it is a good opportunity to replace both axle output seals and the main transmission output shaft seal.
 

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Not on 62TE but have yanked and replaced a 41TE. It took me forever, but I guess I'm just slow - it was a bit of a learning curve for me. I have a ceiling anchored frame to connect my ratchet hoist to take the transmission weight while unbolting the trans, then I slid the trans out through the driver's side fender on the floor, after removing the inner plastic fender shield and strut. I just did not have a way to lift the vehicle high enough to take it out underneath but that would have been more straight forward (easier?). I don't know.
This was on a Gen 3, but I don't see a Gen 5 being that much different.
Some observations come to mind - that thing sure is heavy - there sure are a lot of bolts - I also had good access to replace my rusty power steering pump with the trans out.
What I'd recommend, and I did, was replace the crank rear oil seal while I had access. Also if you are getting a used trans it is a good opportunity to replace both axle output seals and the main transmission input shaft seal.
Said output seal but meant input shaft seal (the one where the torque converter goes into). These have been known to fail and most trans shops replace them as a matter of course.
Replaced engine rear main seal just because I'm fussy, and have had these fail in the past - ( saves separating the trans in the future again to replace).
 
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