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Discussion Starter #21
Ok then Jeepman thanks a bunch for seeing me through this .Here is the summary
Drain coolant from system through bottom hose section clamped to pipe going to water pump. Then refill with water (about 2 gallons demineralized if I can locate locally or distilled). .Warm engine up with heater turn heater on. Turn engine off. let cool down and then drain what ever comes out of the same hose above.
Refill with water, heat engine up, heater on. Drain water same hose above after engine cools down (don't want to get burned).
Do same procedure for third time (drains are over, engine flushed)
Fill with 100% coolant, 2 gallons, with engine running to warm up temperature so coolant can be taken in pass thermostat, ensuring bubbling to a minimum in neck of radiator, so no air in the system. Squeeze upper radiator hose if bubbles persist, helps remove air. It may help to remove air in the system if needed.
Then top off with water. Let engine cool.
Fill reservoir to correct level, 50/50 coolant.
 

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Why don't you just do a complete flush and get rid of all impurities for good?

I can give you step by step instructions if you want. You don't even need to buy the flush kit, but you need to remove the therrmostat and the upper radiator hose (not the lower).

Can't describe the feeling of seeing clear water flushing out of the system.

It is completely up to you.
 

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Ok then Jeepman thanks a bunch for seeing me through this .Here is the summary
Drain coolant from system through bottom hose section clamped to pipe going to water pump. Then refill with water (about 2 gallons demineralized if I can locate locally or distilled). .Warm engine up with heater turn heater on. Turn engine off. let cool down and then drain what ever comes out of the same hose above.
Refill with water, heat engine up, heater on. Drain water same hose above after engine cools down (don't want to get burned).
Do same procedure for third time (drains are over, engine flushed)
Fill with 100% coolant, 2 gallons, with engine running to warm up temperature so coolant can be taken in pass thermostat, ensuring bubbling to a minimum in neck of radiator, so no air in the system. Squeeze upper radiator hose if bubbles persist, helps remove air. It may help to remove air in the system if needed.
Then top off with water. Let engine cool.
Fill reservoir to correct level, 50/50 coolant.
Sounds good, you can check coolant strength (hydrometer) before final top off. You may need no water, just the 100% coolant, with possibly a little 100% coolant left over.

Note: Once you do the three flushes, there will be the equivalent of about a quart of the old antifeeze (100% coolant) left in the mix that remains.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Before I did a flush on the van I went and bought a prestone hydrometer at walma. the needled registered 265 degree protection and -44 degrees.

I put a gallon of 50/50 back in march 2016 after putting radiator in. Prior to that for Two weeks while waiting to find the leak I was having I also put a gallon of 5o/50 little bit at a time to make up for the leaks of was having over a couple week period of time. that was two gallons put in.

So can I get away with just making one drain from van and putting one concentrated gallon in with a gall. of diluted water for the sake of getting those good anti rust agents that prevent gasket deteriation.

ps--I went to my profile at the forum and tried to find my conversations I started and could only find those in 2018 I started. I still has this post in my email. I started this about 7 or 8 days ago. maybe that's why I can't find this one in my profile under "conversations.
 

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Replies to Topics are not 'conversations'. Conversations used to be called "PMs" (Personal messages)

To search for a post you made, click on the three dots (menu) to the right of your Avatar, then Advanced Search. You can then search for topics or posts by username.
 

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Before I did a flush on the van I went and bought a prestone hydrometer at walma. the needled registered 265 degree protection and -44 degrees.

I put a gallon of 50/50 back in march 2016 after putting radiator in. Prior to that for Two weeks while waiting to find the leak I was having I also put a gallon of 5o/50 little bit at a time to make up for the leaks of was having over a couple week period of time. that was two gallons put in.

So can I get away with just making one drain from van and putting one concentrated gallon in with a gall. of diluted water for the sake of getting those good anti rust agents that prevent gasket deteriation.

ps--I went to my profile at the forum and tried to find my conversations I started and could only find those in 2018 I started. I still has this post in my email. I started this about 7 or 8 days ago. maybe that's why I can't find this one in my profile under "conversations.
How about doing one good drain, via lower radiator hose, and replace with 50/50 premixed G-05 coolant? That should be good for another 2.5 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
ok that is what I will do. thanks for recommendation. thanks. I took hydrometer again and checked radiator fluid. the temperature was luke warm if that is significant, easy to touch with the finger.
hydrometer registered above the 265 and below --40 degrees.

I did peck at the hydrometer to ensure there was no bubbles pushing up the pointer in the hydrometer.
I did use multimeter, it was .40 few days ago now registers .60. Do think there valid??. but I see different things. like anything above .05 and then I see another video saying .50

I read a really good article that said meters are not accurate method, explanation was given. sounded pretty scientific for me to grip. I did see those ph strips but not going to spend the cash for it.
 

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The antifreeze takes care of the ph in the system. Your hydrometer reading of -40 sounds fine. Fahrenheit and Celsius are the same temperature at -40.
Here’s the pitch: water has a pH of 7.0 and antifreeze has a pH of 10.5, so a 50-50 mix has a pH of 8.75, and that’s too acidic to protect the cooling system, so the pH must be modified to something around 10 to protect the dissimilar metals in the modern cooling system. And, further, antifreeze must be frequently replaced to ensure proper pH.
Look closely, though, and you’ll notice that the typical pitch for replacing antifreeze (because it has the wrong pH) simply equates the pH of water to the pH of conventional green ethylene glycol antifreeze at a 50-50 mix, and then claims that the resulting number is too acidic.
That comparison ignores the corrosion resistant formulations built into modern antifreezes, especially the Dex-Cool and G-05 long-life formulations. These antifreezes are designed to have a lower pH than conventional ethylene glycol antifreezes; 8.3 compared with 10.
Test strips that can be dipped into the antifreeze to determine the pH level are available at auto parts stores, if you want to check your antifreeze’s pH level.
https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/antifreeze
 

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Discussion Starter #29
thanks for responses, and the "teacher" type learning you provide for so many of us on the forum.

I tested coolant with hydrometer twice since my last reading, cool engine, pecked the hydrometer to removed bubbles. still reads above the top range for temperature of 268 degrees. I guess that means to much antifreeze/water ratio but that's ok only about +10 plug degrees. maybe g 05 coolant is higher level. so i'm happy with that.

tested with three different multi meters for ph. two of the of the three says .28v and the other meter .31v.
the guy in the video below says he confirmed with three manufactures and says .3 and not .03 (which others on internet say) as the cut off for ph balance.

Therefore if you concur then I will only drain once the two gallons from the bottom hose, (although I prefer less mess through. but maybe the plug would break if turned on radiator) you said two gallons comes out from bottom hose. will replace with 50/50 two gallons.

oh, does the coolant in the overflow count as part of the two gallons?

I will then drain two gallons and add a 50/50 mix hoping that I will also get a lower ph reading. going to get a jug off 100% coolant and mix with 1 gall. of distilled. hopefully the reservoir counts as part of the 2 gall so no need to buy an extra gallon.

do you think this is a good plan? ok then.
 

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I would forget about resistance and ph readings and make sure my coolant was good for around 40 below, maybe a couple degrees warmer. Here's the ZEREX G-05 Product Information showing what it does and the mixture %s versus freezing: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/f93a8057-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/c264d227-0dbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

The two gallons is a rough figure and the drain can include the coolant in the reservoir if radiator cap is kept closed when draining. Any additional coolant can be in the form of water, say for a half quart or so. You should be okay as you want to reduce your strength a little, even though you don't need to. -34F is your target. I predict you will have some coolant left over.

You are good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
sounds really good. the documentation you sent made me feel confident. thanks a million or two (since inflation).
 
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