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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
UPDATE JULY 23,
I just removed the intermediate shaft speed sensor after 17 days and there are no metal shavings or fuzz or anything on it ....it looked fine. I also removed the output shaft speed sensor which I never removed before and that looked fine also no metal fuzz on it.
I touched it with my finger and it was like a very slight amount of gray on it which would be metallic maybe a third the size of a pinhead so I'm guessing that my clutches are all right or the other sensor would have had as much metal fuzz on it as the intermediate shaft speed sensor had when I first pulled it out on July 6th , but I still get the check engine light , it stays on for a week or two goes off for a week or 2
So I'm guessing thanks to the video that Mtfix20 gave a link to and I also watched the second part of it, it is something with the apply ring in the compounder, if anyone has a different opinion and knows what it might be please let me know thank you






HiI have a 5th generation 2009 Town and Country Touring 3.8, 62te transmission. I bought it at the end of 2019 with 215,000 miles , it now has 235,000 MI everything works on it .I take care of it.
Last year one time when I was on the highway passing and I took my foot off the gas quick it went into lip mode and I drove home like that and then I researched it and the next time it happened I had to pull over disconnect the battery for a few seconds, then I learned just by pulling over shutting off the ignition for a few seconds and turning it back on resets it so I don't drive it like that anymore and it hasn't happened in a long time except for one time a few months ago.
I have codes p0733-0734-0792 the check engine light comes on for a week or two then it goes back off for a week or two back and forth like this.
I took the intermediate shaft speed sensor out .....it had a little glob of metal filings stuck to it about half the size of a BB I wiped it off cleaned it put it back in the lights are off for about 2 weeks and went back on again for about a week and now it's back off again, and nothing really has changed, the check engine light goes off for 2 weeks then it's back on then it's back off again . I put a new battery in it about a month ago there was nothing wrong with the old battery I just used it to put into a Jeep..... it is very well grounded , there is a ground from the alternator bracket to the battery and the chassis and the engine are well grounded
I drive it normally and I don't abuse it the guy I bought it from said that they had to have a new transmission put in either 100,000 miles before I bought it or at 100,000 miles I don't remember which.
last year I took the pan down when I worked in a transmission shop and flushed seven of the nine quarts of oil out of the transmission and replaced it with atf4 like it's supposed to be there were no metal filings in the pan and the fluid was bright red as it still is .
I put a small external transmission cooler into it last year, so now uses the stock cooler then goes into the aftermarket external cooler and back into the transmission, the fluid level is correct

......does anybody have an idea what is going on ????
I'm not sure if the transmission is messed up or not , it drives fantastic it does not slip even slightly it drives as it should it runs great .

I just bought some Amsoil motor oil for it but I don't know if I want to put it in if the transmission is no good, so if anyone has an idea of something that I can check to know for sure one way of the other what's going on please tell me.
Does anybody know how I can solve this problem?,
Thank you.
 

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Did a quick search on google and found a couple things, I suggest you do the same yourself. I didn’t watch this video but this person has the same codes as you. Check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've done a lot
Did a quick search on google and found a couple things, I suggest you do the same yourself. I didn’t watch this video but this person has the same codes as you. Check it out.
[MEDI
Did a quick search on google and found a couple things, I suggest you do the same yourself. I didn’t watch this video but this person has the same codes as you. Check it out.
I have done a lot of research on it and talk to people like mechanics many people have the same codes but they don't have the same symptoms everyone else who has these codes their van goes into limp mode mine is not going to limp mode anymore unless I would drive it really hard like I described which I do not do it drives fine but the codes keep coming back they will offer a week and now today the check engine light is back on I'll look at the video though
 

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I’ve heard that lots of the earlier years of the 5th gen vans have issues with the compounder or torque converters. I don’t know much about transmissions but seems like you’re one of the many people with this issue. I would take it to a transmission shop and see what they say. Maybe it needs a new trans? Or just the updated internals (I believe Chrysler fixed this problem a few years later)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've been working on car since I was a kid but the real kind not the modern jump they made in the last 40 years and up until recently I worked in a transmission shop and unless you bring it to a dealer with their specialized equipment it's really hard to tell for sure what the problem is that's why I posted the question on here no possible way I can afford to bring it to a transmission shop but thanks for the input
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've been working on car since I was a kid but the real kind not the modern jump they made in the last 40 years and up until recently I worked in a transmission shop and unless you bring it to a dealer with their specialized equipment it's really hard to tell for sure what the problem is that's why I posted the question on here no possible way I can afford to bring it to a transmission shop but thanks for the input
I’ve heard that lots of the earlier years of the 5th gen vans have issues with the compounder or torque converters. I don’t know much about transmissions but seems like you’re one of the many people with this issue. I would take it to a transmission shop and see what they say. Maybe it needs a new trans? Or just the updated internals (I believe Chrysler fixed this problem a few years later)
I watch both parts of the video and perhaps that may be the problem but I'm still not sure
 
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