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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have installed a new battery & alternator & belt & pulleys. it was working fine for about 3 days now the batt light is on .
I have checked the voltage the alternator is putting out, it is put out 14.38 volts at 1000 rpm, but when I take it to 2300 rpm the alternator voltage drops to a battery voltage of 12.4 volts. The voltage returns to 14.38 when RPMs return to 1000.
can anybody help me with this problem?
thanks this is on a 2006 Chrysler town & country 3.3-liter engine
 

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2005 Town & Country 251k miles
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Have both the new alternator and battery tested. They will do this for free at most big chain auto parts stores. I installed a brand new battery in my Town & Country and it turned out to have one bad cell. On a different car, a 2006 Ford Five Hundred, I ended up replacing the alternator 3 times since the first 2 were bad. I exchanged the bad alternators for no charge but it was a hassle. I also suggest cleaning all connections with fine sandpaper including the ground under the battery. In today's world new parts have a high failure rate. Check Car Wizard on YouTube he says the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have both the new alternator and battery tested. They will do this for free at most big chain auto parts stores. I installed a brand new battery in my Town & Country and it turned out to have one bad cell. On a different car, a 2006 Ford Five Hundred, I ended up replacing the alternator 3 times since the first 2 were bad. I exchanged the bad alternators for no charge but it was a hassle. I also suggest cleaning all connections with fine sandpaper including the ground under the battery. In today's world new parts have a high failure rate. Check Car Wizard on YouTube he says the same thing.
I have installed a new battery & alternator & belt & pulleys. it was working fine for about 3 days now the batt light is on .
I have checked the voltage the alternator is putting out, it is put out 14.38 volts at 1000 rpm, but when I take it to 2300 rpm the alternator voltage drops to a battery voltage of 12.4 volts. The voltage returns to 14.38 when RPMs return to 1000.
can anybody help me with this problem?
thanks this is on a 2006 Chrysler town & country 3.3-liter engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just had the battery & alternator tested they tested a-ok after having a load test put the battery the alternator did not
drop voltage at 2300 as it did before. but the battery light is still on in the dash. what can be the cause of this?
any help, please thanks
 

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Did you check for codes? Sometimes pending codes are set, which don't cause the CEL to light up.

The symptoms that you reported are unusual, particularly after replacing all the stuff you've already done. Here's a test that you might try - I've never actually done it myself and it's also not a typical/conventional test, but the fact that the alternator voltage suddenly drops way down at 2.3K RPM suggests that it might possibly provide some useful information.

You'll need to keep away from the rad fan and fan belt loop when doing this test, and you'll need a helper behind the wheel to push the gas pedal as you monitor. Disconnect the 2-wire alternator connector and start the van. When the van is at idle-1K RPM, check the voltage at alt connector pin slot #2. Then have the helper push the pedal to push it up toward 2K, and see what happens to the voltage as the revs go up.

Never having run this test, I can't tell you exactly what results to expect. However, if the pin #2 drops to zero or close, that MIGHT be an indicator that the PCM field driver circuitry (which produces that output at pin #2) is faulty. But if the voltage either goes up, or at least doesn't drop, then IMO that would suggest that the PCM field driver circuitry is probably ok, and the real issue is some wierd draw as the revs go up. This is all gut feel, and I can't tell you with certainty that what I'm saying is accurate, so you can take it FWIW. And if I had access to my daughter's van, I would have tried it myself before suggesting it to you.

A better flavor of this test might be to measure the current at pin #2 instead of the voltage. However, doing a current test would require putting your meter in series with pin #2 and the alt, which might blow your meter if it's not capable of higher draw or protected against it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you check for codes? Sometimes pending codes are set, which don't cause the CEL to light up.

The symptoms that you reported are unusual, particularly after replacing all the stuff you've already done. Here's a test that you might try - I've never actually done it myself and it's also not a typical/conventional test, but the fact that the alternator voltage suddenly drops way down at 2.3K RPM suggests that it might possibly provide some useful information.

You'll need to keep away from the rad fan and fan belt loop when doing this test, and you'll need a helper behind the wheel to push the gas pedal as you monitor. Disconnect the 2-wire alternator connector and start the van. When the van is at idle-1K RPM, check the voltage at alt connector pin slot #2. Then have the helper push the pedal to push it up toward 2K, and see what happens to the voltage as the revs go up.

Never having run this test, I can't tell you exactly what results to expect. However, if the pin #2 drops to zero or close, that MIGHT be an indicator that the PCM field driver circuitry (which produces that output at pin #2) is faulty. But if the voltage either goes up, or at least doesn't drop, then IMO that would suggest that the PCM field driver circuitry is probably ok, and the real issue is some wierd draw as the revs go up. This is all gut feel, and I can't tell you with certainty that what I'm saying is accurate, so you can take it FWIW. And if I had access to my daughter's van, I would have tried it myself before suggesting it to you.

A better flavor of this test might be to measure the current at pin #2 instead of the voltage. However, doing a current test would require putting your meter in series with pin #2 and the alt, which might blow your meter if it's not capable of higher draw or protected against it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think I will try that later on when I get help. I had the battery & alternator tested at two different places today.
they said the battery & alternator were working a-ok. the weird thing is that after having a load put on the battery the alternator did not drop out at 2300 rpm.
but the battery light is still on. I did check for codes found none to clear
I reply back with my finding
thanks for your help
 

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Drivin' Maniac
2002 Grand Caravan ES 3.8L
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Is the little 'exciter' connection on the alternator secure?

We had an intermittent BAT light when the wire harness (directly below the alternator) rubbed on the sub frame. Insulated it with a rubber hose, no issues since.

EDIT: Disconnecting the battery SHOULD set a Code P1684 for while...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is the little 'exciter' connection on the alternator secure?

We had an intermittent BAT light when the wire harness (directly below the alternator) rubbed on the sub frame. Insulated it with a rubber hose, no issues since.

EDIT: Disconnecting the battery SHOULD set a Code P1684 for while...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will check that out. gave for today better things to do. tackle it tomorrow
thanks, I will post what I find
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
just to keep you all up to date the car is on the road won't get back until tomorrow sometime so there goes the weekend
I will check out all the things that you great people have suggested
thanks for all of the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
just to keep you all up to date the car is on the road won't get back until tomorrow sometime so there goes the weekend
I will check out all the things that you great people have suggested
thanks for all of the help
just to keep you all up to date the car is on the road won't get back until tomorrow sometime so there goes the weekend
I will check out all the things that you great people have suggested
thanks for all of the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think I got the problem solved. I put the old alternator back on and the problem with the battery light coming on went away. This old alternator has bad dados in it but still charges. will have to use it until I get a replacement.
this new alt would drop out of charging intermitting starting at 2300 for about 45 seconds just time to set the battery light
this is strange. I took the car to two places to have the alternator tested both said it was ok. I got the use of a bear arbst
tester over the weekend it solved it in no time. It showed the alternator dropping out coming back in.
thanks for all the help!!!!
this is a great forum for people trying to help people
 

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Drivin' Maniac
2002 Grand Caravan ES 3.8L
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this new alt would drop out of charging intermitting starting at 2300 for about 45 seconds just time to set the battery light
Once again,

This is why I have alternators and starters rebuilt at an auto electric shop.

I've seen/experienced TOO MANY parts store alternators fail soon after installation.
 

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Once again,

This is why I have alternators and starters rebuilt at an auto electric shop.

I've seen/experienced TOO MANY parts store alternators fail soon after installation.
(y)
It might not even be the alternator. He replaced it for this same problem, then failed again but then the old one is working? :oops:

It might just be a connector problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
the old alternator was making noise so I had it checked out it show that had a bad dioid field, so that is why it was replaced. it was still charging. If was not for the noise that it was making I would not notice any trouble with it.
 
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