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Discussion Starter #1
AWD not working. All Wheel Drive
I have Two 2001 Town & Country AWD vans. 177K miles works OK, 144K has problem.
One of the vans seems to be having a problem with the AWD. The one that is working fine never loses footing no matter how slick the road is. The one that has the problem the front wheels seams to lose traction in slick conditions.
One thing I observed is that the one with the problem, if you jack up one of the rear wheels you can spin the tire in either direction. The one that works, if you jack up one of the rear wheels you can turn it in one direction but not in the other.

The rear differential is made up of three components. The overrun clutch the vicious clutch and the differential.

Anyone have an idea of where the problem could be and how difficult it would be to fix.
I tried looking on line for a viscous clutch but can’t find one.

The dealer says the assembly is not serviceable and wants to replace the entire assembly.
 

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Sad thing is that it is probably not serviceable. The parts for the awd vans are scarce but the only other option would be to try looking for one in a junkyard.

Do a search on car-part.com and you may find a junkyard around you that has an awd van to source parts off of.
 

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Had the AWD option been more popular,parts would be more available,maybe some even aftermarket.However,as it is,AWD was an afterthought and a token gesture to be competitive with their marketplace rivals (AWD Astro,AWD Previa...etc).
You stand a better chance getting used AMC Eagle parts than minivan AWD stuff.
 

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Actually you should have no trouble getting the rear diff (new) as it is manufactured by Getrag. They replaced my diff under warranty last year and had no trouble getting it. The only problem with it was the vent corroded and started popping seals. They replaced the seals first and when I went to pick up the van they said they ordered a new diff because they knew the seals would go again. I guess there is a difference between the 96-00 and the 01-04. Getrag manufactures the AWD units for most manufacturers.
 

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The questions are,for how much longer will they be made,and at what cost? Someone here posted the dealer wanted $1100 for a prop shaft.Nobody is going to pay that out on an "old" high mileage vehicle.Heck,you could buy a good Gen2 FWD for that.
 

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fix it if you can
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you can try to check with a good tranny rebuilder, if you have one around, (and i don't mean aamco or the like) if they can overhaul it or replace it with a rebuilt unit.. (but it's not user serviceable)

the main problem with awd on these vans is that many units go unserviced until there's a problem / symptom...
even though not many were manufactured, I'd suspect they use gears and hard parts that are probably available / used in other powertrain applications...
 

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Its funny,but you never hear of problems with the Astro or Previa AWD powertrains
Some of them see 300,000 miles (the Previa not the Astro...lol) with nary an issue.
 

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I love this AWD system. That is why I bought this van. The one problem I had was I found that the rear seals were leaking at 100,000+ kms and it was quickly looked after by the dealer. If they still made it I'd by it. I haven't been on the Toyota forums but I suspect they have occasional problems also. I do know that the Sienna AWD uses run flat tires and no spare and they had several issues involving that.
 

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I would guess that the problem lies in the rear diff, as opposed to the viscous coupling. You stated that you could turn the wheel freely in both directions, even a drained coupling should have some tension to it. I agree that it should be looked at by a "good" transmission shop. The dealer (and I asked my dealer a "just in case" question about it when I purchased the van) will just replace the whole system, if still available. There is no "service schedule" for the AWD system either.
 

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as I see it, AWD system should be serviced at the same time as the ATF oil & filter change.. (but that's just my opinion)
RE: schedule, in non severe schedule it must be done before 5years / 100 Kmi.. (in severe, I think, it's before 3year / 60K)
 

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Get a recommendation for a good/honest trans shop that will give trroubleshoot/diagnose without taking anything apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Determining if the rear differential has a problem

I figured out how to determine if the rear differential has a problem or not.
It you jack up one of the front wheels and one of the rear wheels, put the van in neutral,
If you spin the front wheel the rear wheel will also spin. If it doesn’t check to see if the driveshaft is turning. If the driveshaft is turning and the rear wheel is not there is something wrong with the rear differential.
I will let you know more when I find the cause of the problem.
 

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as I see it, AWD system should be serviced at the same time as the ATF oil & filter change.. (but that's just my opinion)
RE: schedule, in non severe schedule it must be done before 5years / 100 Kmi.. (in severe, I think, it's before 3year / 60K)
Does the rear diff have drain/fill plugs? Does it take regular gear oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Drained AWD Differential

Town and Country 2001 155K miles, AWD not working.
I went to check the fluids in the rear differential. The rear end has two sections the output assembly ”differential” that takes 80/W90 oil and the overrun clutch “front assembly” that takes AFT+4. The drain and fill on the overrun is a 13mm nut and the differential is a 10mm allen. The differential alle aren’t easy to loosen. The filler nut for the overrun hits up against the gas tank, I had to pry between the unit and gas tank to get it out.
Overrun
The stuff that came out of the overrun was completely black, and when it started to end it looked like it was molasses, I don’t know if there was an internal leak between the differential and overrun or if the viscosity clutch was leaking, but whatever came out didn’t look good.
Differential
The stuff that came out of the differential was also black, the drain plug on the differential has a magnet and it looked like it was caked with a clay like substance.
I noticed some play in both output shafts. The correct amount of fluid came out of both assemblies so I don’t think there were any leaks.

Just to recoup I don’t think the AWD was working in this van since 40K miles.

I filled the unit with fresh lubricant but I don’t think I stand a chance.
From now on I think I will change the fluids every 50K miles.

I will keep you posted and let you know what happens next. I purchased a used rear end but it doesn’t look in that good a shape either.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
More Differential questions

Rear Differential Questions
2001 Town and Country
My differential is a
Getrag
6400000600
ALK-00813
1-3.45

Does anyone know where I can get a parts list, and purchase parts to rebuild the differential?
The fluids in the unit I got from the junk yard was pretty dirty is there something I can use to flush out the unit before I refill it, kerosene, break cleaner? The ALK-00813 number is also different “can’t remember what is, but both the numbers and letters are different, Does anyone know what they signify? Both units have the 6400000600 and 1-3.45.

Thanks again for any help
 

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fix it if you can
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I'm not sure this is going to help you.. but take a look at getrag site..
http://getrag.de/en/258

They do have a US subsidiary.. (I doubt they do any direct sales..)
GETRAG Corporation

Address
GETRAG Corporation
GETRAG Engineering Center
36200 Mound Road
Sterling Heights, MI 48310
USA

Fon +1 (0)586.939-7700


* Development and marketing of axles
* Employees: 50


Management
Friedemann Strasser
[CEO]


GETRAG Transmissions Corporation

Adress
GETRAG Transmissions Corporation
35533 Mound Road
Sterling Heights, MI 48310
USA

Fon +1 (0)586.620-1300

* Seat of the management
* Seat of the central departments and the product development for GETRAG Powershift®
* Associates: 100



Management
Tobias Hagenmeyer
[President]
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Fix for AWD Problem

Fix for AWD Problem
I ended up getting a used “carrier assembly” rear differential from the junk yard. I flushed the differential with Kerosene and then sprayed break cleaner in the fill plugs and let it drain out. Refilled the unit with 80W90 and AT+4. I had a friend who had a lift help me swap out the unit. Not too bad a job. Unbolt the right and left shafts unbolt the drive shaft. The axels and drive shaft didn’t need to be removed. Two bolts with bushings hold the differential to the chassis and one bolt for the metal driveline bracket Remove the bracket and differential as a unit. You have to slip the differential back about 1 inch to separate it from the drive shaft.

Things went well for the first 50 miles and then I started to get a Howling noise and vibration. I changed the fluids again and was surprised to see how duty they were.
I thought I did a good job of flushing the system. The next day the Howling noise came back for a while and went away. It has been good ever since.

Foresight I would recommend that after flushing the unit with break cleaner you should flush it out again with WD40, this will help lubricate the internal parts.

I repaired the old unit and probably could have fixed the problem without removing the unit from the vehicle. The BOC Bi Directional overrun clutch was not engaging. It is a set of rollers in a plastic housing that cam and engages the viscous coupling. The rollers are spring loaded, there was gook in the unit it took a couple of tries with break cleaner to free it up.
What I would have done is flush the unit out while id was still in the vehicle. Fill it with kerosene, Lift a front and rear tire off the ground; spin the front tire back and forth. Drain the kerosene and spray break cleaner in the unit and let it drain out, fill the unit with WD40 and turn the front wheel back and forth again. If you are successful the rear wheel will start to turn in the direction you turn the front wheel. Just a note you could probably remove the vent from the top of the unit and completely fill it for flushing.

Refill
Overrun 1.22 Pints ATF+4
Differential 1.48 Pints 80W-90

Differential
If you are up to it you can unbolt the rear drive shafts from the differential and remove the drive flanges by prying between the housing and flange. I used two crow bars. The shaft on the flange can be cleaned an oiled and I would put some grease on the seal.
The output shafts sit in bushings.
Let me know if anyone finds this information useful. The dealer wanted to replace the differential for $2000.00.
 
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