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Was having a slow leak at water pump so I replaced it. But after 300 mile trips I still lost a gallon of antifreeze; never had any drips underneath, at hoses or even tailpipe. The thermostat was removed; Nothing found in the oil either! A weekly consumption of antifreeze is costly and unacceptable. Has anyone experienced a similar experience?
 

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Check the radiator top two or three rows, it might be leaking.

If radiator leaks from the top rows, you might not see coolant leaking.

Fill radiator all the way up, allow engine to watm up, fill again up to the top.

Install radiator cap, move vehicle a little bit to a dry spot and let engine run for about five minutes. See if leaking, if not, turn engine off and again look for coolant leak.
 

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Have done the let run and then cool and check....no loss after stationary and running for 15-minutes.
Indeed a puzzlement for me.
 

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Have done the let run and then cool and check....no loss after stationary and running for 15-minutes.
Indeed a puzzlement for me.
Have you done it "after" radiator top off?

If radiator is not full to the top and radiator had a leak on the top rows, radiator will not leak.
 

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Radiator topped off and upper hose squeezed several times to remove any lingering air bubbles in hose to radiator.
 

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Have you tried a leak test using a pressure tester or checked for a failed head gasket using a combustion leak detect kit? May be able to sign them out from a parts store.
 

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4-5 yrs ago I had a very slow coolant leak on my 1998 GV 3.8. Maybe 1/2 qt 1000 to 2000 mile maybe less. Never a sign of overheading and nothing on the ground. That persisted maybe 2yrs until I saw dried coolant residue on the wiring harness not far from the water pump and on the under-hood insulation. I ASSUMED it was the WP and replaced it. In the process of buying coolant from the local parts store, I saw they had coolant pressure test kit for loan. After I replaced the WP, before adding coolant, I decided to pressurize the system. Low and behold, it would pressurize, but the pressure would slowly drop. I could actually hear the faint hissing sound, but not from the newly replaced WP. Turns out I had a tiny pin hole in the plastic side of the factory radiator. The leak's certainly not visible to the naked eye, and there was no coolant residue on the radiator. So that lead to a new radiator; and the subsequent pressure test looked good.

First drive to work after the repair, I could see a small puddle of coolant below the new radiator after the van sit for 5 min. This was Feb in VA; so not the AC condensation. Opening the hood I can see small amount of coolant just below the radiator cap. Thinking... defective radiator cap; so bought a new cap and replaced the previously OK cap. But problem persisted. Same place, small amount of coolant on ground, everyday. Then it finally dawned on me, it's the overflow tube. I'd re-use the overflow tube that ran from the top of radiator to the reservoir. The rubber tube was the original factory unit, and the end was stretched and cracked. So the fix was also easy. Just trim back the rubber tube end by 1/2" and this made for a sufficiently tight connection to the coolant reservoir.

Sorry for the long story, but I suggest getting a pressure test kit to confirm the primary cooling system is tight. But don't forget, you can lose coolant in the overflow reservoir as well. Our plastic coolant reservoir along with its rubber hose are 20 yrs old, and may develop small cracks and leaks.

Hope this helps.
Woof
 

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Turns out I had a tiny pin hole in the plastic side of the factory radiator.
Similar experience here; small crack near top of plastic tank on passenger side of radiator. The leak was pretty slow, and seemed to depend on temp.

After replacing radiator, a much smaller mystery leak continued until finally identified (years later) as being from water pump shaft.
 

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Did you add 1 gal only once? That could easily be just air in the system working thru. If you keep having to add a gal every month or so, and the reservoir level is fine, look further. I had one leak at the rear water pump housing. There is a rubber cap on a stub there, only in vans w/ a rear heater I understand, though could be those w/ an oil cooler. I have both. You can buy a replacement cap in Help at Autozone (5/8" cap), but I used a short piece of 5/8" silicone heater hose w/ a 1/2" copper cap (for home water pipes) stuck in and hose clamped, which should last forever. Another leak I had was dripping on the driver's side of the radiator. I thought the drain plug was leaking and kept fooling with O-rings on it until I surmised it was coming slightly above from the radiator's side gasket. A new radiator fixed it. With rear heat, many have reported leaks in the plastic elbows which turn from the under tubing to inside the cabin just in front of the rear wheels. I have silicone hose there and also to the rear heater core since those are inaccessible. I use Evans Waterless Coolant which is pricey ($43/gal) but should last forever and stop internal corrosion, so I am motivated to find and fix any leak fast.
 
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BillGrissom
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