The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

41 - 60 of 60 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Be careful with allcomputerresources.com ---------- here is the BBB report on that company. All Computer Resources, Inc. | Better Business Bureau® Profile
here is another place. at least its not in florida.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #42

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,634 Posts
OP, for now, why don't you install a battery disconnect switch.

Also, charge battery, disconnect battery from car, read voltage, let sit overnight and read voltage again. Voltage should be about 12.5 volts.

Also, and again with as much feeling as Jeepman can give me, 75 ma is not going to kill a good battery. Your numbers would make more sense if the 5 ma was actually 50 ma, which is normal, and the 75 ma was 750 ma, which would kill a battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
OP, for now, why don't you install a battery disconnect switch.

Also, charge battery, disconnect battery from car, read voltage, let sit overnight and read voltage again. Voltage should be about 12.5 volts.

Also, and again with as much feeling as Jeepman can give me, 75 ma is not going to kill a good battery. Your numbers would make more sense if the 5 ma was actually 50 ma, which is normal, and the 75 ma was 750 ma, which would kill a battery.
Marvin, thanks for that info. Yes. a battery cut off switch will do the trick. on these cars, if i pull the IOD fuse, it also does the trick. i was just hoping to have the vehicle work properly. a work around is cheaper. The battery sitting disconnected holds a charge very well. doesnt lose anything. i will charge and see how much it loses over night connected to the vehicle. the factory manual says the draw should be no more than 25-30 miliamps. im at 3 times that level. as stated, something is stopping the vehicle modules from staying asleep. thanks for your input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #45

check out this article. many newer cars cannot sit more than one week without the battery going dead. maybe one option would be a solar panel that plugs into cigarette port. I tried that with a cheapo from harbor freight for 20 bucks, but it only put out 3miliamps. a bigger panel would get closer to 40 or 50. with this issue, auto makers really should be putting higer amp hour batteries in cars. i know that costs money and weight. let the consumer figure it all out I guess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,708 Posts
... a bigger panel would get closer to 40 or 50. with this issue, auto makers really should be putting higer amp hour batteries in cars. i know that costs money and weight. let the consumer figure it all out I guess.
Also, FLA, standard Flooded Lead Acid batteries, have an internal resistance that draws them down over time in storage. Differing batteries have differing characteristics. Consider an Odyssey dry cell battery has very low internal resistance and will likely be over 96% state of charge after a few years storage.

Regardless, something is certainly amiss with James' minivan. With a good FLA battery, his mini should last more than a month or so. I went away for three months and mine (which previously had a similar situation) started right up, without the IOD fuse disabled. I forgot about pulling the IOD fuse for extended storage.

**Note, I believe there is a fused power tap that can be plugged into a blade fuse position. Perhaps that could be rigged to a toggle the IOD fuse position with a remote "convenience" switch.
 

·
fix it if you can
Joined
·
4,850 Posts
James, if you can show me a consumer vehicle that's approaching 2 decades for which you can buy new computer modules from the manufacturer I will agree with your grudge of Chrysler not supporting its customers...

It is a complex system, and it takes patience and persistence in methodically testing one part / possible cause at a time. Dealer and most decent shops charge over a hundred an hour for labor and very few places have anyone who's good at troubleshooting complex electrical systems.

If you want to give up on it and just pull the IOD fuse, that's understandable.

However, the only way to get to the root cause is to work backwards from the symptom to the source - no amount of part throwing is going to solve it (your BCM is working fine - what makes you think there's anything wrong with it).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
James, if you can show me a consumer vehicle that's approaching 2 decades for which you can buy new computer modules from the manufacturer I will agree with your grudge of Chrysler not supporting its customers...

It is a complex system, and it takes patience and persistence in methodically testing one part / possible cause at a time. Dealer and most decent shops charge over a hundred an hour for labor and very few places have anyone who's good at troubleshooting complex electrical systems.

If you want to give up on it and just pull the IOD fuse, that's understandable.

However, the only way to get to the root cause is to work backwards from the symptom to the source - no amount of part throwing is going to solve it (your BCM is working fine - what makes you think there's anything wrong with it).
Atoman - you have been a big help and I do appreciate all your thoughts. my comment about the BCM modules not being available was not meant to slam dodge. ( I can still get those parts for my 91 mustang, although not from Ford.) With as many vans as have been sold, and that are still on the road, I wish Autozone or someone would carry them. I can get virtually any other part fairly easily. I have heard prices anywhere from 600-1800 to have the dealer figure this out, which is not reasonable for a car this old, at least for me. I agree with you on the complexity. When I first began this I hoped that I would track down whatever module, switch, or whatever, was causing the trouble. When I traced it back to the ODO and that stopped the draw, I considered that a victory. But the PCI bus makes it hard to follow the trail. I am wondering if at this point, it is just the age of the connections and components that pull more power than when new. Im beginning to think that the farther I go, and the more components I check out that are OK, I am not going to find a smoking gun. I have always been a buy and hold kind of person, but this makes me wonder if that is a good plan for highly integrated vehicles. Where I live in the southwest, we have no rust issues, so this van could easily make 30 years old. I will continue to consider other options. But I have to ask myself, how much time and money am I willing to spend to find 40 miliamps ? We shall see. Rest assured, If i do find the cause, I will be on the site and sharing my findings. You have great insights and they are appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,708 Posts
JamesCotton, all this has me curious about my mini.
How do i test the overall milliamp draw on my vehicle?

Is it as simple as open the hood, disconnect the battery, use my Fluke in amperage mode between the battery terminal, close the door and wait for it to go to sleep?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
JamesCotton, all this has me curious about my mini.
How do i test the overall milliamp draw on my vehicle?

Is it as simple as open the hood, disconnect the battery, use my Fluke in amperage mode between the battery terminal, close the door and wait for it to go to sleep?
Yes it is that simple. Pull off the negative battery lead. use multimeter between the disconnected lead and the negative battery terminal. if you have a courtesty light under the hood of the engine, make sure its disconnected. if you open the van door, the meter will jump way up, when the interior ilghts go out, your meter will drop down. from there, you can see what your van is doing. on mine, it will sit at 75 miliamps for about 30-50 seconds before dropping down, then poping back up to that level. its not a bad idea to check it out if your van is working well to have a baseline amp draw in case something changes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
JamesCotton, all this has me curious about my mini.
How do i test the overall milliamp draw on my vehicle?

Is it as simple as open the hood, disconnect the battery, use my Fluke in amperage mode between the battery terminal, close the door and wait for it to go to sleep?
If your run the test, and If you wouldnt mind, post what you find out. I would be curious to know. thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,708 Posts
If your run the test, and If you wouldnt mind, post what you find out. I would be curious to know. thanks.
That is kinda along the lines of where I was thinking...

Will disconnecting my battery wipe out my trip meter?
It has been 14,786 miles since I rebuilt my own transmission with the help of this forum. I'd like to keep this clock running until I shred a gear or something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
That is kinda along the lines of where I was thinking...

Will disconnecting my battery wipe out my trip meter?
It has been 14,786 miles since I rebuilt my own transmission with the help of this forum. I'd like to keep this clock running until I shred a gear or something.
I wouldnt risk it. I dont think it would, buy why take a chance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
OP, for now, why don't you install a battery disconnect switch.

Also, charge battery, disconnect battery from car, read voltage, let sit overnight and read voltage again. Voltage should be about 12.5 volts.

Also, and again with as much feeling as Jeepman can give me, 75 ma is not going to kill a good battery. Your numbers would make more sense if the 5 ma was actually 50 ma, which is normal, and the 75 ma was 750 ma, which would kill a battery.
This is actually great advice. I have the same problem and after reading your post I realized that a physical switch for disconnecting the battery costs like 5 bucks/euros. Thank you, Sir.
 

·
--UNKNOWN MEMBER--
Joined
·
10,617 Posts
This is actually great advice. I have the same problem and after reading your post I realized that a physical switch for disconnecting the battery costs like 5 bucks/euros. Thank you, Sir.
You don't need a switch to disconnect the battery, just install a little switch to disconnect the IOD circuit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have tried a variety of things, one at a time. I have used a variety of meters. the symptoms have been consistent and have never changed. all the things i have tried have been in an effort to stop parasitic draw from cycling and causing a 76ma power drain. all along it has been when the vehicle shuts down, within a few seconds the interior lights go out, and the current draw is 76ma. it will remain this way for 30-45 seconds, then drop to 5ma , but only for a second. then cycle back to a 76ma draw. it remains this way past 20 minutes, and I believe it reamains that way until the vehicle is used again. by removing the instrument panel, i was able to stop the cycling and the draw would hold steady at 5ma or so. I will say one thing about the BCM units. Chyrsler created so many varieties of them, changing them from year to year, that new ones are not available for a vehicle this old. there are some places on line selling bcm's, but when you read customer reviews, it is like going to a casino. good luck if you get something that works. many bad stories of parts purchased that didnt work properly. the PCI bus runs throughout the vehicle and talks to different modules. perhaps the instrument cluster is just one link in the chain, and when i pull it, it breaks a circuit and stops the communication. simply replacing the bcm with a good one is seemingly impossible at this time. I have searched on the internet quite a bit and keep coming up with nothing for new bcm's. with that said, i am hesitant to do a lot of multimeter testing of the bcm, for if i short it out, my vehicle is done. it is alarming that a vehicle could be rendered useless by one piece of electronic equipment that is no longer available. my van only has 77k miles on it, despite its age. Perhaps some other module is waking and talking on the circuit. it is just too much money to swap out module after module ( cant get bcm anyways) and even if i was to take it to a dealer, who could figure it out where are they going to get a bcm ? the mopar parts sites online no longer carry them. There have been some great suggestions here, but without a replacement bcm, i think i am out of luck. Now i see why I have not been able to find many solutions to this issue !! I have a 91 ford and the electronics in it never have a problem. It would seem that electronics will kill off these minivans even though you can keep them up mechanically. dont know what else to say but thank you, and im at a loss from here.
Mine was the ignition switch - the electrical part. The van (2000 T&C) would be dead in the morning. If I disconnect the battery at night and reconnect it in the morning, it was fine. Battery tested good, but I changed it anyway. Same problem. Bought a replacement 09 Dodge Grand Caravan because the problem 2000 van was set up as a handicap van for the wife. Could not risk it being dead when we needed it. After having all the handicap items switched over to the 09, I just decided to change the ignition switch on the T&C, because nothing else made any sense. The switch has a security Torx headed screw, so I used a Dremel to cut a slot in it and took it out with a small flat tip screwdriver. I think I used a #6 or a #4 phillips head screw to put the new switch in. The switch solved the problem! Now I have 2 good vans!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
Mine was the ignition switch - the electrical part. The van (2000 T&C) would be dead in the morning. If I disconnect the battery at night and reconnect it in the morning, it was fine. Battery tested good, but I changed it anyway. Same problem. Bought a replacement 09 Dodge Grand Caravan because the problem 2000 van was set up as a handicap van for the wife. Could not risk it being dead when we needed it. After having all the handicap items switched over to the 09, I just decided to change the ignition switch on the T&C, because nothing else made any sense. The switch has a security Torx headed screw, so I used a Dremel to cut a slot in it and took it out with a small flat tip screwdriver. I think I used a #6 or a #4 phillips head screw to put the new switch in. The switch solved the problem! Now I have 2 good vans!
Autoplay - wow, thats a great piece of information. the ignition switch does show feeding through the instrument cluster, which would explain why when I pulled the cluster the drain stopped. I will look into that. It takes a bit to figure out how to get to the plug in on the ignition switch, its a bit deeper than the items i have pulled. A couple days ago I pulled out the IPM fuse box under the hood. I would not recommend it. There are a bunch of plug ins on the bottom, and the plastic retainers have been in place for 19 years. It took a lot to get some of them to release. I would probably try spraying the releases with WD40 if I was to do it over to let them release easier. I sprayed all the connections under the fuse box with electronics cleaner and put it back together - i got a 4 miliamp improvement. my draw went from 75ma to 71ma. I also pulled out the overhead electronic console, and disconnected the front doors, made no difference. I will get into that ignition switch connetor and see what that does to my draw. Im happy that you were able to figure out and fix yours, a great success story. Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Thanks, James, you rock! The IOD fuse pulling is a good trick to use as well and that is the only one that pulls the draw on my van that you mentioned pulled the draw on your van in your previous post. And yes those are the grounds I was noting. This is my second instrument panel and I have tried 4 BCM's in my car from similar vehicles. The BCM's are very fragile and break easily. Also, I have had to make sure my engine hood was closed all the way down as well as the light switch that operates the light that illuminates the engine when one opens the hood can stay on if the hood is not closed completely. Yes, those engines are great since they have a non-interference engine and a solid transmission with quality metal parts in them. The electronics and HVAC systems can make even a Chrysler mechanic run through a shopping mall with a semiautomatic weapon. After this vehicle, I have been looking for a Honda odyssey from 2002 to 2012 and Toyota Sienna as the Honda's have near-zero problems if you change the trans fluid when you change the motor oil and the Toyotas are similar. btw. my 1999 Subaru forester has stayed outside for 20 years as has the Plymouth and has twice the miles as the Plymouth and can run circles around the Plymouth on reliability and performance. Also, Nissan is breaking ties from Renault so expect to see better vehicles from them in the near future. I love American made stuff when it performs, but they have to go back to treating the customers well with quality built machines if they want to compete in the future. Thanks for the BCM info as I may use it to get old blue (Plymouth)back to operating performance.
Where did you hear that Nissan is "breaking ties" with Renault? As far as I know the Nissan/Renault/Mitsubishi alliance is a going thing, and given the level of product integration, that's unlikely to change.
If you really think that Honda or Toyota makes a better minivan than Chrysler, good for you, I've got a ton of anecdotes that suggest otherwise. They both make vehicles that are overcomplicated and expensive to fix, compared to any old Chrysler van. I'd take a Dodge or Chrysler any day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hi guys, I thought of doing the parasitic current test since my battery was weak enough to just click the starter about a month ago and I came across this thread. I have a 2001 T&C Limited 3.8L. After driving two days ago my van battery is 12.06 V. Temperature is about 60° outside. It was in a warmer climate since then with no starting problems so the battery is likely wearing out.

With the interior light rheostat turned off, connecting the battery shows about 900mA for 17 seconds then 870mA for 14 seconds then 48-44mA for 10 sec then it settles at 23 mA for at least 30 sec.

With the rheostat in the lower dot position the readings are the same. Hope this helps someone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Where did you hear that Nissan is "breaking ties" with Renault? As far as I know the Nissan/Renault/Mitsubishi alliance is a going thing, and given the level of product integration, that's unlikely to change.
If you really think that Honda or Toyota makes a better minivan than Chrysler, good for you, I've got a ton of anecdotes that suggest otherwise. They both make vehicles that are overcomplicated and expensive to fix, compared to any old Chrysler van. I'd take a Dodge or Chrysler any day.
Scotty Kilmer noted it a few weeks ago about the Nissan thing. Hondas from 2002 to 2012 ( Odyssey and Accord) are the best-made vehicles on the road for engine and electronics if you want dependability. ( Odyssey's have Accord engines in them).The problem with Honda's is the fluid pump in the trans when people don't change the trans fluid when they should. And if you can place an Accord manual trans in the Odyssey you will have one of the most dependable vehicles on the road as far as the engine, trans, and electronics. This comes from many online forums and personal mechanics I have spoken with who worked on Honda's for years, but now work and own on Subaru's. True, our Plymouth and Chryslers have good engines and trans but the electronics are sketchy with age and are, as you know, a pita to locate issues.
 
41 - 60 of 60 Posts
Top