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Aluminum pitting - water pump replacement

5K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  Jeepman 
#1 ·
I am preparing to replace the water pump (2001 Chrysler T&C lxi) and found this pitting on the Timing cover. I was planning to NOT use any RTV, but maybe I should? Thoughts? Maybe just fill these areas smooth and then install new water pump?

57823


Also, I definitely benefitted for this forum on two counts. First, I soaked exposed bolts with PB Blaster for a few days and then used my propane torches to heat the area. The result: no snapped off bolts!

Second, I used the advice on the forums to drop the engine a few inches in order to remove the pump and pulley.

Thanks to all contributors for this archive of information.
 
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#2 ·
JB Weld to the rescue?

Repairing Aluminum Cylinder Head Pitting with JB Weld
 
#3 ·
I filled pits in sealing surfaces of my 3rd gen's water pump/timing cover with JB Weld, filed and sanded flat/smooth and they sealed fine. The first time I did it several years earlier I used silicone, and it eventually leaked past. Epoxy is the way to go.
 
#7 ·
Is that what typically causes the corrosion? I have been through the system pretty well and don't recall seeing any, but will double check now. The radiator did have the typical (relatively minor) leak where it meets the plastic on the side, so I am replacing that already. I still have the old radiator and by way of the magnet test, it appears to be aluminum. The vehicle was in (cold Wisconsin) storage and undriven for a few years, so I assumed the corrosion was just from sitting. (??) I found a few corroded spots at the thermostat connection too, so JB welding them up as well.
 
#8 ·
It might still use some brass parts in the cooling system stock, like the heater cores. My 2000 3rd gen had a copper radiator, until I changed it out to an aluminum one because the fins were corroded and falling out. Maybe that was the cause of my pitting as well? A factory oversight? Although, the van had green coolant in it. I think it was supposed to have the red-orange coolant like Zerex G-05. Some, if not all 4th gens do.

Also, while the coolant is out you may want to check on the condition of the rear heater pipes on the firewall (if equipped). Some were steel and rust out, and some were aluminum. My 2004 has steel, but my 2001 parts van had aluminum (kept it to swap in later).

The radiators can sometimes be repaired by just crimping the side tanks tighter all around with a channellock. My current radiator only leaks from there in the winter during the cooldown cycle. I have 2 other spare radiators, and I recrimped one of them to try later.
 
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#10 ·
Also, while the coolant is out you may want to check on the condition of the rear heater pipes on the firewall (if equipped). Some were steel and rust out, and some were aluminum. My 2004 has steel, but my 2001 parts van had aluminum (kept it to swap in later).
The 2001 had a replacement octopus pipe (2010), made out of aluminum. Somewhere along the way, they wisened up and got rid of the steel pipes.
 
#12 ·
Correct. Thermostat body used to be brass, now manufacturers use stainless steel as much as possible, but stainless steel doesn't have good heat conductivity properties, so copper still needs to be used on critical parts of the thermostat. Manufacturers also try to isolate thermostat by using plastics housing instead of aluminum. Many are quick and good to blame manufacturers for using "cheap" plastic thermostat housing without even thinking the reason why plastic is used instead of metal.
 
#15 ·
Have you ever connected a garden hose with aluminum fitting to a brass fItting?

Like this:

Aluminum Female Fitting (Description shows made of metal)
57850


Brass Male Fitting:
57851


Well, I did.

I couldn't find a 3/4" brass female fitting, so I bought an aluminum one. Connected the garden hose to the water line. Couple of months later I had to use a pipe wrench to remove the hose.

My "garden hose" is 3/4" ID. X 100 ft.
Not easy to find 3/4" fittings.
 
#16 ·
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#17 ·
#18 ·
I really wish I got notifications, well I can throw my 2 cents in. I had the same corrosion on the front cover at the water pump and like everyone else has suggested I used JB weld. Wire brushed and filled in with JB weld and sanded smooth. 3 years on and no problems (knock on wood)
 
#19 ·
Thanks for the report, a test case really. (y)
 
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