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I recently replaced all 4 original rotors and brake pads on 2010 GC 4.0 SXT at 54,000 kms... Replacement MAX carbon metallic pads are a great improvement over stock. They offer more stopping power than ceramic or semi-metallic, as well as much reduced pedal travel since the pad material is less compressible. G3000 iron rotors machined in Canada are good quality too. Pretty impressive braking performance for the low cost.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371320976149

http://maxbrakes.com/

Original rear bearing hubs did start seizing up from the excess heat while breaking in the new brakes... They are a bit snug and dry, but still rolling for now.
 

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Added bigger brakes and and bigger rotors to my van yesterday afternoon. Went from single piston to dual piston....and different wheels. Went from 16's to 19's.

The dual piston brakes were easy to install EXCEPT the 4 little metal clip you need to fit into the caliper.

I got the parts from brakeperformance.com
 

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I have a 2012 Crew with 16-in wheels. Should this brake mod/upgrade job have 17-in or bigger wheels as a must requirement?
 

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The wheels for brake upgrade to HD must be at least 17s. And don't forget about spare wheel.
 

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So this mod/upgrade job is NOT cheap.
It depends. I did it because I had 17s originally. But all my rotors and most pads were due to change plus I got calipers and other parts from scrap yard so it was kind of cheaper. But yes, it costs. You might give a try at scrap yard if you have one around.
 

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Since this upgrade/mod from single piston to dual piston, the master cylinder flow rate could be increased. So, should the master cylinder be changed to meet dual piston set-up?

Also, if the original master cylinder (for single piston caliper) stays with NEW dual piston calipers, does the brake paddle travel distance keep same or go longer?
 

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Since this upgrade/mod from single piston to dual piston, the master cylinder flow rate could be increased. So, should the master cylinder be changed to meet dual piston set-up?

Also, if the original master cylinder (for single piston caliper) stays with NEW dual piston calipers, does the brake paddle travel distance keep same or go longer?
The master cylinder was also my concern but I was told that it is enough to change a brake fluid reservoir without necessity of changing the MC. So I have done this and described here: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/135594-Heavy-Duty-Brakes-upgrade-on-2010-Chrysler-Town-amp-Country
The brake pedal's travel stays the same. I am very happy with the brakes' work.
 

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I did my 08 T&C last summer. I still have not changed the Master Cylinder. My brake pedal will travel to the floor but I can stop on a dime (I did several brake stands from 60+MPH). I see Superbemol just changed the reservoir and his brake pedal did not change so I find that interesting. Now with that said I used A-1Cardone brake calipers and the damn things are rusty so I am very disappointed in that but they still work fine. Also I have yet to see anyone else post that has done the 4wheel upgrade on an 08 or 09. So I hope to get the master cylinder changed to return my brake pedal to its previous feel.
 

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I looked up the piston sizes and the LD front brakes are 76mm pistons and the HD brakes have dual 57mm pistons. So the surface area of the dual is 12% larger in the HD from brakes versus the LD brakes. So Master cylinder will need to provide the 12% more oil to the pistons to get he same motion/pressure on the caliper. The HD master cylinder has a 1.125 inch bore versus 1 inch bore for the LD master. That provides 26% more oil for the same stroke. So the HD master should make a big difference.
I have not researched the rear brakes but I assume these also have increased piston area by some 10%. In case of changing both front and back brakes you will definitely increase the pedal stroke maybe by some 20..25% which should be noticeable.

I am planning on doing the front brakes with the MC change in the next month. Will report back. Will use Mopar MC as I dont trust the re manufactured ones.

BTW the brake reservoir cannot change how the pedal feels or its stroke it can only change oil levels between not pressed pedal and pressed pedal. Not sure the logic behind changing the container with the oil when the MC is the actual pump. Bore size of MC needs to change to make a difference.
 

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I looked up the piston sizes and the LD front brakes are 76mm pistons and the HD brakes have dual 57mm pistons. So the surface area of the dual is 12% larger in the HD from brakes versus the LD brakes. So Master cylinder will need to provide the 12% more oil to the pistons to get he same motion/pressure on the caliper. The HD master cylinder has a 1.125 inch bore versus 1 inch bore for the LD master. That provides 26% more oil for the same stroke. So the HD master should make a big difference.
I have not researched the rear brakes but I assume these also have increased piston area by some 10%. In case of changing both front and back brakes you will definitely increase the pedal stroke maybe by some 20..25% which should be noticeable.

I am planning on doing the front brakes with the MC change in the next month. Will report back. Will use Mopar MC as I dont trust the re manufactured ones.

BTW the brake reservoir cannot change how the pedal feels or its stroke it can only change oil levels between not pressed pedal and pressed pedal. Not sure the logic behind changing the container with the oil when the MC is the actual pump. Bore size of MC needs to change to make a difference.

I'm not good at biology, but your numbers look awful wring to me.

Anyways, I also believe the M.C should also be replaced, but people who made the change withoutchanginh M.C. reports not a single problem.
 

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I looked up the piston sizes and the LD front brakes are 76mm pistons and the HD brakes have dual 57mm pistons. So the surface area of the dual is 12% larger in the HD from brakes versus the LD brakes. So Master cylinder will need to provide the 12% more oil to the pistons to get he same motion/pressure on the caliper. The HD master cylinder has a 1.125 inch bore versus 1 inch bore for the LD master. That provides 26% more oil for the same stroke. So the HD master should make a big difference.
I have not researched the rear brakes but I assume these also have increased piston area by some 10%. In case of changing both front and back brakes you will definitely increase the pedal stroke maybe by some 20..25% which should be noticeable.

I am planning on doing the front brakes with the MC change in the next month. Will report back. Will use Mopar MC as I dont trust the re manufactured ones.

BTW the brake reservoir cannot change how the pedal feels or its stroke it can only change oil levels between not pressed pedal and pressed pedal. Not sure the logic behind changing the container with the oil when the MC is the actual pump. Bore size of MC needs to change to make a difference.
Welcome to the site.
I don't know if your figures are right or not but I just can't let this go:
Brake fluid is a glycol based fluid. Its not an oil. :eek:

PS: I do agree that the master should be changed, especially if you do both a front and rear upgrade.
 

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Hi, that all sounds very interesting thank you, I've only just brought my grand Voyager May I as to where you brought these parts from please?
 

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As it happens, I live around the corner from an AutoZone, and while I'm not a huge fan of their parts, I opted to go with their Duralast Gold brake rotors front and back, part numbers 43166DG and 43177DG, paired with their ceramic Duralast Max brake pads, part numbers DGC1326 and DGC1327. Installation was straightforward, and I used AutoZone's free tool loan for the tool to retract the rear brake pistons, which have to be twisted clockwise to retract them.

It stops fine. I have no idea how long they'll last. I think it previously had semi-metallic pads, and it feels like the ceramics don't stop quite has fast as the semi-metallics, but it is my understanding that the ceramics don't wear out as fast. Time will tell.
I had to replace the front rotors and pads yesterday. The passenger side rotor was getting chewed by the worn out outboard pad. So the answer to "I have no idea how long they'll last" was 21 months, and the rotor was probably getting scored a couple months ago, so maybe just go with 18 months? We put a lot of miles on our van and that's actually around how long our dealer brake-jobs were lasting too. Those Duralast Gold rotors had a 3-year warranty, and the Duralast Max pads had a lifetime warranty, so all my new parts were free.

I guess I'll be back here in 18 more months. :-/
 

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I'm not good at biology, but your numbers look awful wring to me.

Anyways, I also believe the M.C should also be replaced, but people who made the change withoutchanginh M.C. reports not a single problem.
Finally did the front as kind of an emergency due to stuck pins in the rear. I already had the parts for the front but did the back as not HD ( Still not sure why I kept the old calipers....) . Either way the pedal seems to travel further when the car is parked but when driving the car the pedal requires much less pressure to stop the car. The brakes feel much stronger but there is a slight front dive with this setup. I had no issues with bleeding the brakes in the front but the rear brakes took a long time to bleed and had to repeat a few times. The shields and calipers where easy to replace and the only issue had was getting the rotors off as they got a little corrosion welded - nothing a little sledge hammer could not overcome. Either way the stuck calipers have been dragging for a while and causing excessive fuel usage which I blamed the driving habits of the other drivers. After the job was done the fuel usage is down by 20% (no more drag).

One watch out - I got a defective rear driver side caliper from the store. The defect was strange most likely due to the wrong caliper piston installed in the caliper assembly. This caused the Emergency brake to work when released and release when the brake is pressed. The point is check the function of the Ebrake before you mount the rear caliper - otherwise you might be doing the job twice. On the bright side the second time should be much faster as you will now know what to do.

Overall I am happy with the HD fronts and wish i did both front ad rear - but I guess I was in panic mode after seeing the stuck pins and just got the old style rear calipers. The MC was not changed at this time.

Next time I would have changed both to HD. Bad planning on my part.

Good luck.
 

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Finally did the front as kind of an emergency due to stuck pins in the rear. I already had the parts for the front but did the back as not HD ( Still not sure why I kept the old calipers....) . Either way the pedal seems to travel further when the car is parked but when driving the car the pedal requires much less pressure to stop the car. The brakes feel much stronger but there is a slight front dive with this setup. I had no issues with bleeding the brakes in the front but the rear brakes took a long time to bleed and had to repeat a few times. The shields and calipers where easy to replace and the only issue had was getting the rotors off as they got a little corrosion welded - nothing a little sledge hammer could not overcome. Either way the stuck calipers have been dragging for a while and causing excessive fuel usage which I blamed the driving habits of the other drivers. After the job was done the fuel usage is down by 20% (no more drag).

One watch out - I got a defective rear driver side caliper from the store. The defect was strange most likely due to the wrong caliper piston installed in the caliper assembly. This caused the Emergency brake to work when released and release when the brake is pressed. The point is check the function of the Ebrake before you mount the rear caliper - otherwise you might be doing the job twice. On the bright side the second time should be much faster as you will now know what to do.

Overall I am happy with the HD fronts and wish i did both front ad rear - but I guess I was in panic mode after seeing the stuck pins and just got the old style rear calipers. The MC was not changed at this time.

Next time I would have changed both to HD. Bad planning on my part.

Good luck.
You're getting there. :thumb:

If using rebuilt parts, watch out for damaged parts. Had a brake caliper and bracket for an Acura once that was bent, likely had been in an accident in a previous life. I noticed this before installation luckily and had it replaced.
 

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Glad you got it working. The HD upgrade makes a nice difference and is easy enough to do if you are already replacing brake parts. (and even if not!)
 

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As it happens, I live around the corner from an AutoZone, and while I'm not a huge fan of their parts, I opted to go with their Duralast Gold brake rotors front and back, part numbers 43166DG and 43177DG, paired with their ceramic Duralast Max brake pads, part numbers DGC1326 and DGC1327. Installation was straightforward, and I used AutoZone's free tool loan for the tool to retract the rear brake pistons, which have to be twisted clockwise to retract them.

It stops fine. I have no idea how long they'll last. I think it previously had semi-metallic pads, and it feels like the ceramics don't stop quite has fast as the semi-metallics, but it is my understanding that the ceramics don't wear out as fast. Time will tell.
I just had to re-do the rear brakes, so they lasted 27 months. The driver side rear inboard pad went down to the metal backing on one corner and started scraping a half-inch wide zone on the outside of the rotor. Once again, rotors and pads were completely free under the Autozone warranty.
 
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