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I just got the van with 140k miles on it and have not checked out where an exhaust leak could be coming from. Anything I should look for specifically on this van? It is only noticeable a few seconds or more after strong acceleration - either from a stop or on the highway. The ac was on and the recirculate switch was on at all times, so maybe the recirculate is not completely recirculating in addition to the exhaust leak.
 

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All joints and connectors... A tell tale sign would be any soot coming out. If not, spray some water/liquid on those joints while running, if exhaust is escaping, the water will bubble/pop where there is a leak as the exhaust pushes out.

However, I have to question, after getting on it hard (I presume WOT), it is perfectly normal to smell something as the vehicle is in power enrichment mode...
 

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Welcome to the site Chadr.

On my 13 if I go WOT for a long time like an on ramp for example, my wife will complain of an exhaust smell. It seems to happen more when I'm running the AC.
I hardly ever use the recirc mode.
 

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All joints and connectors... A tell tale sign would be any soot coming out. If not, spray some water/liquid on those joints while running, if exhaust is escaping, the water will bubble/pop where there is a leak as the exhaust pushes out.

However, I have to question, after getting on it hard (I presume WOT), it is perfectly normal to smell something as the vehicle is in power enrichment mode...
Thanks for the reply. Even under full throttle I would not expect fumes to come back in to the cabin unless there was a leak in the exhaust and an opening in the body. Why do you expect to smell fumes after hard acceleration unless there is a leak in the exhaust?
 

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All joints and connectors... A tell tale sign would be any soot coming out. If not, spray some water/liquid on those joints while running, if exhaust is escaping, the water will bubble/pop where there is a leak as the exhaust pushes out.

However, I have to question, after getting on it hard (I presume WOT), it is perfectly normal to smell something as the vehicle is in power enrichment mode...
That will only work on a completely cold engine. Try it on a hot engine and you will get crazy trying to seal all those leaks!

Thanks for the reply. Even under full throttle I would not expect fumes to come back in to the cabin unless there was a leak in the exhaust and an opening in the body. Why do you expect to smell fumes after hard acceleration unless there is a leak in the exhaust?
Your vehicle body is not sealed, if you drive with rear vents open, air would be coming out, and new air will enter your vehicle to replace that air.

It is not recommended to drive wirh Air Rec. on at all times, that might be part of the problem.
 

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I have the same problem with my 2016 (16,000 miles} Chrysler cant fix it and have given up. Did you ever find a source? They say they cant reproduce problem, even though one of there techs smelled it when I took him for a ride....ONLY on hard throttle..
 

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Had a similar problem on the new-to-me 2010 with ~110k miles...I got to poking around in the engine bay, and found that the rear flange on the cross-over pipe wasn't welded correctly at the factory. The weld did not penetrate through the metal, there was just a bead (very nice, I might add) deposited on the flange. It had been that way since day one...

When the motor would heat up and twist under the hood under acceleration, or at times, while stopped on a hill, exhaust fumes would be noticeable in the cabin.

In any event, I took it off, took it to a welding shop and had them re-weld the flange, and now it's good to go.

Total lack of engineering and manufacturing quality...this is just one of many examples, and I've only had this thing a couple months...now the ABS started blinking, and I'm seeing evidence the wiring is too exposed by the wheel, and the insulation is getting worn off from dust and dirt kicked up by the tires. Apparently, the rear A/C tends to leak for this same reason, and I found a brick-sized chunk of wet sand wedged in the left-rear fender between the sheet metal and the plastic insert (no drainage, and open at the top, facing the direction tires will fling stuff in....). The EGR failed after 1k miles, and the front rotors warped. The rear subframe is rusty, and the electronic stability protection being on causes the gas mileage to go way down and excess wear on the brakes and tires. Before I bought it, they had to replace the P/S hoses. The 2-3 shift feels like a turd that sticks to your cheek on the way down to the water, it kind of shudders a little. Apparently they all do that since new.

My Ford that's 3 years older and 50k more miles hasn't had any of these problems. Other than the interior space/convenience features, it's better in every respect, and by a large margin.

First, and last, Crapsler ever. On the plus side, the stow-n-go, cargo space, and convenience features for the kids are why we bought it, and so far, those are working OK. Also, parts are pretty cheap, probably because of the high volume of sales (due to frequent repairs).

/rant
 

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I have the 3.8L, but the 3.3L also has a similar pipe.

It connects the front exhaust to the rear. Just follow that pipe with your hand (careful, heat shield is sharp, thin metal) until you get to the rear flange, which is just below the EGR. I could feel exhaust gas leaking out of mine with my hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
oops, I am just now getting back to this forum to see the replies from years ago. My van still does this but I don't drive it too often, and I avoid accelerating too much (due to the smell). I'll have a close look at the connections which have way too much rust already and see if I can track down any leaks. Thanks for the replies.

This van has had too many problems for me as well. TIPM fuel pump circuit failed (bypassed with $1 jumper wire), TIPM circuit for front blower motor fail (bypassed by running positive power from lighter circuit), ABS c2200 warning though no sensor data appears faulty, door lock module for power side door failed, front window regulator failed. I've driven the van about 20k miles since buying around 140k. Brakes are starting to shudder again even after I replaced the rotors and had on car rotor turning done. At least the van carries people and tows my trailers decent enough for now. If I didn't fix things on my own I'd really not want to pay for these repairs. They would be costly for sure.
 

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There's a TSB out for the Durango that installs an external relay for the fuel pump. It can be used on the Caravan too. That's a better solution than the jumper wire.

The blower isn't safe to run on the lighter circuit. It pulls too much power. Get a trigger for a relay from that circuit, but put a fused relay from the battery to carry the higher current.

Brake shudder with new pads and rotors could be slack in front suspension or engine mounts. I've had issues with that from control arm bushings, ball joints, and engine mounts.

The C2200 code means your ABS controller module has an internal fault and needs to be replaced. That could also be the cause of your shudder. If the shudder is bad enough and caused by something else, it could be causing the error in the ABS module by sending it readings it can't make sense of; but that is unlikely without other ABS codes.
 

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If I accelerate hard on interstate mine did it since new but seems to be better now. I haven't had it on interstate in awhile but last time I smelled it was when I was out accelerating a Camaro convertible. The smell hasn't returned but I can't recommend holding it on the floor until 115 mph. Oh the Camaro driver flipped me off when he comes around me once I slowed down 😂.
 

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I just got the van with 140k miles on it and have not checked out where an exhaust leak could be coming from. Anything I should look for specifically on this van? It is only noticeable a few seconds or more after strong acceleration - either from a stop or on the highway. The ac was on and the recirculate switch was on at all times, so maybe the recirculate is not completely recirculating in addition to the exhaust leak.

If you reverse flow on a shopvac and stick it up your tailpipe you can find leaks easy with soapy water in a spray bottle. Car turned off of course.
 

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I just got the van with 140k miles on it and have not checked out where an exhaust leak could be coming from. Anything I should look for specifically on this van? It is only noticeable a few seconds or more after strong acceleration - either from a stop or on the highway. The ac was on and the recirculate switch was on at all times, so maybe the recirculate is not completely recirculating in addition to the exhaust leak.
Does it sound loud under the hood or outside the van? I have had an issue where my flex pipe came away from my manifold after replacing the crossover gaskets.the smell is really bad and every day it seems to be getting louder. I have to now replace the flex pipe and the front converter with the O2 sensors that are on the converter. After that the smell should be gone. I would troubleshoot a few of them options first.. good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The blower isn't safe to run on the lighter circuit. It pulls too much power. Get a trigger for a relay from that circuit, but put a fused relay from the battery to carry the higher current.
Thanks for the suggestions. The blower motor pulls 15 amps at max speed and the 12v socket is fused at 20 amps. I was planning to run a wire + fuse direct from the battery but it looks like more work than I wanted to get into at the time. I had been limiting the blower fan speed to the middle speed and that only draws about 6 to 8 amps (forgot which). I then happened to see the 12v outlet was fused at 20 amps and just set the ac back to auto. If the van burns down in my driveway at least I won't have all these issues to address :)
 
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