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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My vehicle (06 Grand Caravan SXT) temperature indicator needle keeps running past the operating temp line and into the RED. I have no indication of the engine running hot whatsoever. I have changed everything except the lower radiator tube and map sensor. What could I be missing? This problem keeps occurring and causing me the blues? Could the community help me out?
 

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I have changed everything except the lower radiator tube and map sensor.
Does that include the water pump? The impeller can erode away, slip on the shaft, and do all kinds of ghostly things.

Did you replace the thermostat? Might be worth checking it's working by pulling it, and testing it in a pot of water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does that include the water pump? The impeller can erode away, slip on the shaft, and do all kinds of ghostly things.

Did you replace the thermostat? Might be worth checking it's working by pulling it, and testing it in a pot of water.
Waterpump been replaced as well as the thermostat. Will test the thermostat for faults thanks
 

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Coolant seems low after filling to recommended level and the overflow stands steady.
What "recommended level" is?

Turn engine on. Add coolant "all the way to the radiator neck."

Allow engine to warm up until thermostat opens. Add more coolant as needed. Re-attach radiator cap.

You cannot add too much coolant, excess coolant will flow to the recovery bottle once engine is warmed up.

See if that helps.

Let us know.
 

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Unless you neglected the coolant system, a bad head gasket isn't common these engines. Have you tested the coolant water/coolant mix ratio? (Should be 50/50.) Are you throwing any codes? Did you change the coolant temp. sensor?
 

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If the coolant reservoir fluid level is not changing and the level is dropping in the radiator then you should look to the small diameter rubber lines that run from the rad to the reservoir. Mine was blowing fluid out the cap but unable to suck it back in when cold. A zap strap where the tubing joins the rad top and new cap solved the issue but not before I (foolishly) changed out a perfectly OK radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Unless you neglected the coolant system, a bad head gasket isn't common these engines. Have you tested the coolant water/coolant mix ratio? (Should be 50/50.) Are you throwing any codes? Did you change the coolant temp. sensor?
I did a full flushing of the heater lines and radiator. Talking to the community the case is closing in on the head gasket. Thank to all for their response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If the coolant reservoir fluid level is not changing and the level is dropping in the radiator then you should look to the small diameter rubber lines that run from the rad to the reservoir. Mine was blowing fluid out the cap but unable to suck it back in when cold. A zap strap where the tubing joins the rad top and new cap solved the issue but not before I (foolishly) changed out a perfectly OK radiator.
Thanks I'll follow-up on that.
 

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I did a full flushing of the heater lines and radiator. Talking to the community the case is closing in on the head gasket. Thank to all for their response.
When did we say we suspect the head gasket? Head gaskets on these engines RARELY go bad. Lower intake manifold leak is more common.

You first said the gauge shows it overheating, but the engine doesn't feel like it. Bad temperature sensor? You need to VERIFY you have an overheating problem before trying to diagnose it, or firing the parts cannon at it.
 

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My vehicle (06 Grand Caravan SXT) temperature indicator needle keeps running past the operating temp line and into the RED. I have no indication of the engine running hot whatsoever.
Talking to the community the case is closing in on the head gasket.
Hold on a minute. Let me get this straight. You have "no indication of the engine running hot whatsoever" yet you are on the verge of replacing the head gaskets that nobody on this forum has recommended? Is that right?

I would suggest that you take a step back and diagnose your issue before throwing more parts at it. Anything else is just guessing. In my many years of experience with automobiles the SWAG* method of repair is rarely effective. You might get lucky every now and then but usually you end up where you started just short a few more dollars.

You state your temp gauge is in the red yet the engine is not running hot. How hot is the engine actually getting? Measure the temperature with a thermometer. Is it actually getting too hot? If not then you have some problem with the gauge. The gauge gets its info from the ECT sensor via the PCM which sends the data over the PCI bus to the cluster.

If it is actually getting too hot, when does it get hot? At idle/low vehicle speed? Going down the road at higher speed? Under heavy load? Each of these circumstances can be caused by different problems.

Generally the first step in diagnosing any overheating issue (after verifying that it is actually overheating) is to check the coolant level and condition. If it is low then find out where the coolant is going. A pressure test is the most effective way to find cooling system leaks.

Bottom line: test don't guess.


* SWAG = Scientific Wild A$$ Guess
 

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It was me who suggested a head gasket, that is if the temps rise and fall. There is a simple test for a head gasket leaking combustion gases into the coolant, it is a sniffer test for hydrocarbons.

Please don't just replace them without testing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
When did we say we suspect the head gasket? Head gaskets on these engines RARELY go bad. Lower intake manifold leak is more common.

You first said the gauge shows it overheating, but the engine doesn't feel like it. Bad temperature sensor? You need to VERIFY you have an overheating problem before trying to diagnose it, or firing the parts cannon at it.
Good ideal, I'll check that and make another assessment of the problem.
 

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Good ideal, I'll check that and make another assessment of the problem.
Ditto on the temperature sensor. I believe it's behind the p/s reservoir. Sorry at first I said the p/s pump in error. On mine the insulation had deteriorated and the bare wires began corroding and shorting. Check the coil pack connector back there too. It will do the same thing.
 

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As someone else said earlier. could be the radiator cap after he replaced radiator.
Mine ended being the radiator cap also which was causing the evaporation of the coolant when running at normal engine temperature.
I actually say white stain just below the radiator cap which caused me to believe the cap was bad. so I bought a new cap, stant with the red lever on top.
been good for three years now.
sure hope you can find the reason.
 
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