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Has to be either air, fuel, or spark. How's the air?
On modern engines is not that easy.

Air: Easy to check.
Fuel: Fairly easy to check
Spark: Not that easy because ot has to be at the correct time.

Then, you are missing exhaust, very important on modern engines.

Agreed, his vehicle is not really a modern one, but is not a carbureted one either.
 

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Discussion Starter #462
well if I could afford to take things to a mechanic and avoid this incredible aggravation I certainly would do that but I'm not working right now and I'm living on somebody's property in exchange for helping so I've been basically homeless for many years and I have two dogs to worry about the only income I have is coming from plasma
 

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I have it in there I started it without touching the gas pedal it ran for about 5 minutes and Died by itself I restarted it and let it run for another 15 minutes and still when I put it in gear it lowers the RPM and dies
This sounds fixable. What happens when you try to increase the rpm via under the hood manipulation of the throttle?
 

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On modern engines is not that easy.

Air: Easy to check.
Fuel: Fairly easy to check
Spark: Not that easy because ot has to be at the correct time.

Then, you are missing exhaust, very important on modern engines.

Agreed, his vehicle is not really a modern one, but is not a carbureted one either.
Squirrels in the exhaust?

That's code PSQRL. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #465
The same thing when you step on the gas pedal
it is probably the flywheel it really can't be much of anything else other than that jumped timing which I don't think it did so I'm going to get the guy who owns the shop to help me take the transmission out and I've got to change the flywheel
 

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Discussion Starter #466
I am on the way to the shop to take out the transmission so I can replace the flywheel seems like a nightmare does anyone have a quick solution to take out that rear transmission mount? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #468
Well just in case this helps anyone.
I was wrong in the beginning I didn't think I was didn't want to believe that it actually needed a flywheel but after two days of taking it apart and pulling the transmission the flywheel center part was completely busted out how it ever started or ran I don't know, so I just put a used flywheel in from a 2003 caravan that I bought on eBay so what it was was the flywheel all along

Okay I'm ending this thread
 

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--UNKNOWN MEMBER--
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A quick Google indicated that you might have a cracked flexplate (flywheel).

This suggestion is not crazy, freshly cracked flexplate may not be noisy.

Check wiring real good, especially connectors.
You had your solution on the very first response, but you choose to ignore it and just listen to one person.

That is the main reason others lost interest on your problem.

Hope you learned something here.

Glad you got your problem solved.

See why I told you Chrysler would not be interested on listening to you?

You had a very easy solution but you kept blaming Chrysler.

Bet you could've seen the crack from the insoection port before removing transmission.

Before you say no, you couldn't, please post pictures of the flexplate.
 

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Happy to hear that you finally realized the problem. Part of this is denial, I know, it also happened to me. I originally never heard of the flex plate issue, and having worked on many cars over the years a cracked flex plate seemed far out. Then I came across a few threads describing this issue and I had all of the symptoms. My very good mechanic was sceptical also, but at my insistence he checked through the inspection port and saw I was correct. Cost me $900 total including rear main seal (torn up by the cracked plate) and fluids. I was very surprised and disappointed at the obvious poor strength and thinness of the flex plate itself, certainly looks like designed to fail! My 02 Caravan now runs like new, all the power it ever had, burns no oil, and trans operates flawlessly. Well worth it to me, I've owned it since new and it gets the best of care. We love this car and now has 195,00 miles and going strong. Owes me nothing. We also have a '18 Pacifica but honestly, the '02 is way more fun to drive around town !

I'm writing this hoping to help anyone who is experiencing these issues. Check the plate first, it's easy. Here's my pics :

56496
56497
56498
 

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.... I was very surprised and disappointed at the obvious poor strength and thinness of the flex plate itself, certainly looks like designed to fail!
You are incorrect here, flexplate is designed to "flex".

Engines fail, transmissions fail, alternator fail, brakes fail. All those fail a lot more often than this flexplate, so all those are designed to fail?

Flexplate actually rarely fail, but when it does, many doesn't listen to those who give good advise, then they blame the manufacturer.

Posted this picture time ago.

 

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Drivin' Maniac
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Where is the inspection port? Is that the little pressed-steel cover between the bell housing and trans?
 

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01 tc 100k
P0203, P1478, and several others.
Mine needed the fuel injector harness replaced. Melted from exhaust manifold.
Remove air plenum and inspect very carefully near the 8 pin harness connector.
Mine was not obvious until I pulled back outer insulation.
Dorman has a harness for $190
911-089 for mine.
O'Reilly had one locally
 

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3rd gen > all others
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^^It was the flex plate, not the harness.

No, it usually cannot be seen from the inspection plate. Need a borescope/endoscope to see far enough up in there to get to the break.

Also, very happy you put this issue to bed. Way to go!
 

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Drivin' Maniac
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Need a borescope/endoscope to see far enough up in there to get to the break.
The descriptions I read said that a broken flexplate will have trails of rust extending to the outer edges. See post #470.
 

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^^It was the flex plate, not the harness.

No, it usually cannot be seen from the inspection plate. Need a borescope/endoscope to see far enough up in there to get to the break.

Also, very happy you put this issue to bed. Way to go!
Yes, it can be seen from the inspection porr.

No borescope needed at all.

I already replaced three of them, no borescope needed on any of them.
 

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Must be the engines run with them broken for a longer period of time before causing problems. When I read of this on the 3rd gen forum 7 or 8 years ago, no one could see the cracks until the transmission was removed. The crack would only be around the bolts, not travelling outwards. The "plate washer" thing that would sandwich the flex plate to the crankshaft would cover the crack up. This was before the 5th gen vans started having this problem as well.
 
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