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The thing with 0W-40 is that it has same cold viscosity as 0W-20, it is only hot viscosity that differs ;) Also, in certain EU countries you are not allowed to market cracked mineral oil as "fully synthetic" unless it is actually made from PAO stock. If you buy Mobil 1 in US it is cracked mineral that is deemed "synhtetic enough".

0W-20 will be thinner when hot and thus provide slightly better MPG, but unless engine has very fine tolerances some of that runny oil might escape the piston rings/seals.
And so it should be. The term "synthetic" for a Group III base oil is deceiving enough, but to call it "full synthetic" is even more so. The deception of marketing. Should not be allowed. Call it whatever it is like "Conventional Oil +".or "Conventional HP". :)
 

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I used 0W40 Mobil One in my 2003 3.3, mostly because my other two vehicles used 0W40, and I only had to stock one type of oil.

Regarding what base stock the oil starts from, is it really important, as long as the end result meets the spec they state.
Sort of like calling ice cream, butter, wouldn't you say, but at least they are both dairy products, a cow being the common denominator. :)

Actual synthetic may be better for the environment as well (non petroleum source).

Wait a minute. I think "margarine" should be renamed "butter". A real good margarine could be called "full butter". :)

You are a rebel marvinstockman, using 0W-40 in your 3.3 clunker. :)
 

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Now I risk to derail the thread but all three groups (Group III - cracked mineral, Group IC - PAO and Group V - Esters) are marketed as "synthetics".
Mobile 1 in US and Mobile 1 in Germany have different stocks. To make things more complicated, they sometimes have different ratio of Mineral / PAO / additives as well depending on weight rating. It is a very complicated discussion.

But what I am trying to hint at is that 0W40 synthetic is hardly an issue in low-tech pushrod engine such as 3.3/3.8. Sure, you can get slightly more mileage with 20-weight (but have more blow-by/slop in return) but it is unlikely to cause any trouble. Heck, most of these oils are vastly better than what was available when engine was constructed...
 

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If your engine calls for 20 or 30 and is low mileage, why going to 40?

I use 5-30 and often pull heavy loads over long dustances, never see noticeable use of oil.

If you think it is working for you, fine, but don't try to make other to do the same.

Back on the days of flat grade oils and not so eficient engines, people used 30 and moved to 40 when engine started burning oil.
 

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Absolutely, you should use what factory prescribed. The reason I use 0W-40 is that I buy it in 20L bulk which brings the price down to what I would pay for crappy semi-synthetic around the corner.
But if engine is already clapped out, going up a viscosity notch might slow down the burn rate.
 

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The only oil I buy bulk is hydraulic oil, I use a lot around my ranch, and I also use it on my chain saw machines, it works very well and it is cheap. Chain saw uses a lot of oil! 💰
 

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The only oil I buy bulk is hydraulic oil, I use a lot around my ranch, and I also use it on my chain saw machines, it works very well and it is cheap. Chain saw uses a lot of oil! 💰
I can see a rancher having a lot of hydraulic equipment, but why the bulk consumption?
 

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I can see a rancher having a lot of hydraulic equipment, but why the bulk consumption?

Because it is cheap, good to lubricate machinery seating outside. We often design special hydraulic tools that need extra fluid.

When a piece of machinery leaks, you don't fix it right away, until you finish the job.

Then, chainsaw use a lot of oil. We use chainsaws often.

Next question?
 

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Because it is cheap, good to lubricate machinery seating outside. We often design special hydraulic tools that need extra fluid.

When a piece of machinery leaks, you don't fix it right away, until you finish the job.

Then, chainsaw use a lot of oil. We use chainsaws often.

Next question?
I think I would enjoy ranching, I've never visited one. I was just curious.
Ranch on...
 

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Do you use it when barbecuing steak? chicken? javelinas? :)

I hear you like making lots of smoke. :)
 

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mmm you're making me hungry.
Barbecue grilled chupacabra with the slightest hint of Rotella and mesquite...
 

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mmm you're making me hungry.
Barbecue grilled chupacabra with the slightest hint of Rotella and mesquite...

That's a shell of a meal. :)
 

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The FRAM TG 8A is an excellent large oil filter as is the Motorcraft FL-1a (made by Purolator). Oil filters now days come in all sorts of designs. Some have metal end caps (FRAM Ultra Synthetic), fiber end caps (FRAM PH and TG), plastic end caps, and just plain old glue for end caps.


I have been using Mopar FE00148 for many years. It's made by WIX and I get a deal on them from the Dealership. Use to be $2.50 a filter but the price has gone up as they are no longer buying them in bulk. That's a large size filter. Only drawback is that it has a nitrile (black) anti-drainback valve. Even the lowly FRAM PH 8A has a silicone anti-drainback valve these days.

Your best deal may be the Motorcraft FL-1a at Walmart. I don't know who makes Mobil 1 oil filters, but it certainly isn't Mobil. The FL-1a is fairly popular here, as is the FRAM.

There are 3 sizes of oil filters that can be used: Mickey Mouse, medium and large. More on that here: Caravan/T&C/Voyager oil filter

Are you looking at the Mobil-1 M1-301 filter?
Mobil M1-204 is what I was looking at and am wondering if there is a "larger" size that would fit with the same or similar oil relief valve settings that correspond to what you are saying is a small version, medium version and large version. I guess I can cross reference the Fram 8 to a Mobil1 synthetic filter and see what it comes up with. The stock calls for the the Mobil1 M1-204.
 

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