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Discussion Starter #1
OK guys just got a 2006 T&C and im not familiar with the 3.8 engine not trannny so i have a few questions.

Did the oil change today and put the motorcraft larger oil filter plus 5 quarts of royal purple 5-30. So far so good here...

Want to change the tranny fluid but have to confess i havent look where the return lines of the tranny are located :) the question is, where are the in and out lines of the transmission?

Are the 3.0 and the 3.8 engines matted with the same tranny??

Anybody have used the power steering cooler to drain the power steering system? I know might be easier just use one of the reservoir tubes right?

Battery life, the van i got is a touring edition with tv and stuff, got one of the back doors fixed yesterday and took me maybe 2 hours because two cables were badly cut everywhere... when I was done fixing the door I couldnt start the car because the battery went bye bye, my old 3.0 after 15 or 10 mins cuts the ceiling lights and stuff when a door is open for example when the engine is off. In the 3.8 i never saw the lights inside of the cabin to go off as result after 2 hours the battery went bye bye and I had to jump the van and everything worked perfect. The battery might be old but anyways there is a way to force the van to cut the lights after 10 or 15 mins??? Asking because if i have to repair something and i need to keep the doors open too long this will drain the battery big time... since this is my 1st gen 4 van maybe I'm missing something or maybe there is a problem in the van?

Thanks a lot...
 

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Any particular reason for 5w30 VS the 5w20 which is prescribed by the engineers who designed the motor?

trans cooler lines are visible in the front driver's side of engine compartment (just follow them from the rad back to the bell housing), which one is which I don't recall.

BCM (with the aid of IPM) is supposed to protect the battery from depletion, but only if there's no change in the sensor inputs (like doors being opened/closed)..
Do test that battery, weak battery is the most common cause for all kinds of problems on these vans.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TOo cold and too hot in here... since i dont know the car because i got it a few days ago just put what I found and what gave me good results in my other cars.

Ok i'll look into the lines then :p

The battery is kind'a weak i have to recognize than, ran the car tonite like for an hour but still need to test it tomorrow (today) in the morning and check its condition.

THanks :)
 

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In my 2003 3.3, I run 10x 30 in summer and 5w30 winter (MN). I ran 5w20 partial synthetic once, it burnt 1 quart in about 200 miles. with 5w30 it burns about 1/4-1/2 every 3000 miles. (the van has 128,000miles). MY oil cap says 5w30 only and manual says 10w30 or 5w30. I would check you levels to make sure it is good to go since changing.

Tranny fluid ask around to several shops and see what is recommended. What does the fluid look like now? It is pink?

I would ask about fluid they use for refill as you want to avoid shops using Dextron, the tranny will be gone in a manner of a few thousand miles from I hear. Only use the ATF 4. (as stated in owners manual)

Have the battery tested to see condition, might be time for a new battery (if original)
 

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Hey thanks... battery doing ok today, went to the extreme yesterday using old man methods... the battery was low in distilled water so i went ahead and add some. Drove like 30 mins and looks like everything is ok, asked my neighbors his battery tester and was showing full charge.

Followed the tranny lines and no wonder people in the big engines are dropping the pan to drain the oil out, doesn't look like get the tranny lines disconnected is as easy as in the 3.0 for example, i even put an extra cooler for the tranny but looks like will be harder to do in the 3.8. Still have to look at the situation better and look what i can do because im not familiar with the vehicle at all yet. Did not know until yesterday that the 3.8 has an oil cooler right on top of the oil filter. An extra part that can fail IMO. VW cars have issues with that part quite often for example.

Today replaced the front and rear speakers, for triaxials and 4 bias in the front and the sound changed completely, wont touch the door speakers anyways. One detail, the radio and dvd changer work but the system sound is not the best around, well cant complain the whole thing works just fine. Anybody know whats that condenser in the negative side of the front speakers?? is like doing a ground but no clue what is it for.

Need to change the tires now and hope the darn pressure light will be gone. With other brands looks like is possible to train the sensors and reset them but with looks like Chrysler engineers developed something so automatic and revolutionary that there is no way in **** to reset them neither know if a sensor is not working, PLOP! Anybody has been rejected in a safety inspection because of that light in the cluster?

Thanks.
 
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