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door panel removal, power window repair

27K views 32 replies 13 participants last post by  Wire tree guy 
#1 ·
Having trouble removing the drivers door panel on my 2001 voyager. The power window has been working intermitantly so I purchased the entire assembly from Rock Auto. I have read many posts and it sounds like it will be a bit of work but very managable. I pryed the panel off but don't know how to disconnect the rod that connects to the interior door handle. At this point I just put it back together and thought I will try to find some info. I did try EAUTOREPAIR.NET but they told me they don't cover that topic. I think this falls under the body shop area. I have read a lot of posts that mention taking the door panel off, so it must be something simple. Any suggestions about this and replacing the power window unit? Thanks, Vango
 
#2 ·
Having done a little more searching I found a post by DSMLVR that had the step by step instructions for what I was looking for. On step #9 of door panel removal it say "Disengage clip attaching linkage rod to inside latch release handle (fig. 13). Is there any way to get this diagram or photo?
 
#3 ·
Interesting little connection for sure. Look at what is "grasping" the rod at the latch, just before the rod bends down into the latch opening (hole). "Ungrasp" that clip from the rod and observe how the connection works. Too neat (sweet).
Any help????
 
#7 ·
Had some decent weather so I did get the window regulator replaced yesterday. Anyone interested in doing this might be sure they have a T-30 TORX driver before they start. You'll need it to remove the tracks and motor. I was pushing on the glass retaining clips with no results. I went to my local auto glass shop and the guy told me to remove the clips. When I did that the window came off. I later checked the instructions that I have found on this forum and sure enough had I read them carefully, I would have known that! I found getting the old tracks out to be quite a challenge. My advice would be to come back to it after a rest and somehow it was easier. My thanks to DSMLVR, Gasman and Jeepman for their help.
 
#9 ·
Congratulations. You succeeded. Bet you feel closer to your van now. I always feel more "in touch" with my vehicles after I have successfully repaired something. "Mission accomplished" is a boost in pride as well.
The replacement of the power window regulator on the minivan is not an easy task. Be proud of your accomplishment. I would rather replace sway bar bushings / links, tie rod ends any day than tackle that job again. I am sure you would see some local mechanics, not familiar with your model of vehicle, struggling and asking advice from their fellow mechanics when working on one of those regulators.
A "groaner" is that you can expect the other window regulator to go in a year or so - bad original equipment motors, I believe. Hope you took notes - surprising what you can forget in a year.
The question is "If I had a vehicle that I didn't have any problems with and didn't have to do any work on it, would I look at that vehicle with less connection or pride?"
Cheers
 
#10 ·
Drove to the local donut shop this morning using my window, feeling pretty good knowing that it would go back up each time. I feel pretty connected to this van, since I am nearing retirement age and will have to make this one last.

It's interesting that you mention the tie rods and sway bar bushings. I am temped to try that one for myself. Have no experience on the suspension. I have had mine done twice by the dealer but it still makes noise. It must be the OEM parts! I would like to try the NAPA parts that I hear mentioned. Will need to buy jack stands for this one, and I will wait for warmer weather. I think this will be physically more demanding, but much less of a puzzle to figure out.

Thanks for your help.
 
#11 ·
A man after my own heart.
Some tips on sway bar bushings & links based on my experience:
- Although the tendency is to replace both bushings at the same time, I would replace the right one (passenger's side) first. The problem seems more right sided than left sided.
- The last bushing I got from the Dealer was polycarbonate, not rubber, with a little different interlock (joint), so I think it is safe to get them from the Dealer now. They probably ran out of the original batch of rubber bushings.
- Replace one bushing at a time. The bushing on the right side is easy to replace. The bushing on the left side is more difficult because there is other equipment (ABS brake stuff I think) in the way. You will need a small boxed end type wrench and patience there.
- The bushings can be replaced with the wheels on the ground (on a ramp).

- Links have connections similar to outer tie rod ends. Proper tools, to apply force to the stud, will make it much easier to get them out of the holes. Sometimes they practically drop out, others times they stick like glue.
- Some replacement links have grease fittings. They are not likely to get any grease unless you bring the fittings to the Technician's attention or grease them yourself. Suggest you CHECK the replacements you have now for fittings.
- Link on the left side seems to be lasting forever on my Van whereas the on on the right side has been replaced (and now has grease fittings). As with the bushings, the right side seems more problem prone.
- Will need to remove wheel to best get at link.

Note: My last replaced link and bushing now have 45,000 kms behind them.

Retiring - good for you. I retired a year ago. Retirement has been easier than I thought - don't miss work, although it was a big part of my life, at all.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I replaced my window regulator this weekend, too. I did not disconnect the rod from the door handle, instead I just unscrewed the door handle from the door panel and set it all aside.

The regulator was a trick, though, and a dose of patience and close observation of how things go together will do wonders. Getting the old one regulator took some gymastics, and again I suggest one really study the way it is installed before removing it entirely. I took numerous photos "just in case". I purchased a Dorman (sp?) model from Rock Auto and thankfully everything fit back in properly without too much problem. All screw holes, etc. fit properly. The only issues I had were "mechanic's issues" -- me. Again, it was somewhat of a struggle to get the new regulator in with the correct orientation (took me 2-3 tries before I got it right). I also did not remove the window, I got it all the way up and then duct-taped it in place. I found I DID have to remove the rubber weathestripping along the top of the door near where the inside panel meets the window.

Thanks to this forum, let's just say I had the confidence to attempt this job rather than farm it out to a mechanic for $300+. Instead, the job cost me $75. My wife says I can now spend that extra $225 on her :Blink
 
#14 · (Edited)
Now if you start spending the savings on your wife, you can leverage that a bit an get her support to buy more equipment, fancy wrenches, and such so you can save even more money to spend on her. Within a year you will probably have to replace the other regulator (poor motors, tend to jam), so best you get plan underway the soonest. :ask_wsign
Congratulations, by the way, on your accomplishment and for having such an understanding wife.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Brought this thread back because there is a new similar thread for the same problem as follows.

"Window won't go down"
 
#18 ·
Retiring - good for you. I retired a year ago. Retirement has been easier than I thought - don't miss work, although it was a big part of my life, at all.


I feel the pain, having been laid off from my post-retirement part-time job a few months ago. Biggest problem I have is figuring out which Saturday I'm waking up to every morning (sometimes afternoon). :lol:

Ron.
 
#19 ·
A tip on replacing the left front sway bar bushing... It's easier if you move the ABS pump (not sure that's what it is) that blocks the bushing bolt/nut access. The pump is held on by two bolts. I took the closer bolt out but only loosened the second. This allowed the pump to be rotated out of the way.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the tip on the bushing. Something associated with the ABS is in the way for the Driver's side. I used a small "boxed-in" wrench.

Had any problems with your power windows?
 
#21 ·
I hear ya on the Waking Up To a Saturday everyday!!! I had carpal tunnel surgery on my hand (both at different times actually) and was out of work for 5 weeks..It got boreing REALLLY quick around here....
 
#26 ·
Welcome to the forum Antoniordz,

Try the search function. Enter "power window motor replacement" This should take you to a few threads. Members DSMLVR and CHRYCARZ have posted step by step instructions. Also feel free to ask any question at any point that you encounter a problem. There is always someone who has done it before you.
 
#28 ·
Use a battery charger with wires in the leads and try the pins on the window motor. One way will be up, reverse it to go down. Piece of cake.
 
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