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ABS & Trac off lights on...then some!

29K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  sideburns2009 
#1 ·
Driving along and my ABS light comes on. No chimes or anything, unless I didn't hear it over the infinity. And also the Trac off light, makes since that one comes on. Trac Control=ABS :thumb:. I have no idea why my ABS light came on. Anything common to fail on the 3rd gen's ABS system? I'm going to check the wiring/plugs at the ABS wheel sensors tomorrow. On monday I'll be able to take it up to the shop and put it on the Genisys or Snapon Modis and run a diagnosis on the ABS system. After noticing this, I was almost home, right down the street at the stopsign and my belt starts squeeling again. Pretty loud, sounded like a seized up alternator. :blink:. I pulled in the driveway as I began to smell coolant so I though, maybe the cheap water pump I put on it 2 years ago let go. Popped the hood and it was a busted radiator hose. Great, no other cars at home right now and I'm all out of duct tape. What to do, what to do? :lol:
 
#2 ·
Update: Electrical tape held good enough to make it to Oreilly. I went ahead and bought a thermostat since it's never been changed so why not now?:thumb: Got the new hose too. When I started it up to leave the ABS light was off but the Voltage light (battery) was one, I think it was just from the belt slipping from coolant and the alternator not spinning because it went off after a few revvs. The ABS light was back on by the time I got to Oreilly's though.
 
#4 ·
Oh boy. I'm not sure yet. I think there may really be a problem with the ABS because when the light came on the Trac Off light also came on, meaning that the ABS system was disabled. Will the solder joint affect the ABS system?
 
#5 ·
The "solder" problem affects communication between some of the modules. The ABS module then sets a code because it cannot communicate with the cluster, and likely with the BCM, and turns on the warning light. Not sure about the traction control, don't have it, but it would make sense if becomes disabled. If you do get it scanned, you'll know the code whatever it is.
 
#7 ·
Well I'm not so sure it's even my ABS. Today as I was driving the ABS light came back on then a few miles later the tach/speedo jumped down about 30MPH/500RPM then back up to their proper speed. Then it shifted very irratically into 4th and the RPM's shot down quicker than I've ever seen when it's shifting. Could this be solder joints?
 
#9 ·
It hasn't been turning off. It went through a spell a few weeks ago where upon stopping and getting ready to go again it would just be dead. Started right back up. Then sometimes upon leaving a stopsign it would miss or stutter for a second and the MIL would come on then go right back off...no codes stored. It hasn't done this in a while though. I'm thinking I'm going to clean the battery terminals and see what the battery is reading on my voltmeter.
 
#12 ·
Hi, im having a similar problem. when i step on the gas i hear a grinding noise from the driver's side and the trac off light goes on along with the abs light. when this happens the car runs fine with no grinding noise but when i shut the car off then back on the lights are off until i hit the gas and the same happens again. im thinking either the drive axle is bad on the driver side or there is a problem with the trac control or abs system.
 
#13 ·
I'm not sure what that is. I don't have a grinding noise, just the lights. Maybe it's missing some teeth on the ABS ring and it thinks the wheel is slipping therefore engaging ABS causing the grinding noise. I'm glad my Dodge Ram doesn't have ABS. :lol:
 
#14 ·
Well, the ABS and Trac Off lights still come on, go off after a restart then eventually come back on. The van died on me again a few days ago and I had to start it back up (started right back up as if nothing was wrong) and about a day ago it started to sputter upon leaving a stop sign...check engine light came on then went right back off after it quit sputtering...no codes stored according to my scantool.(I'm guessing it's a misfire, due to the MIL light just flashing on then back off, though I'm not sure.) The gauges haven't gone crazy again, just that one time for a split second and it's been shifting fine...never went into limp in mode. I'm not sure what's going on. I guess I'm going to replace my battery terminals first and see if it helps because I know a bad connection can cause a BCM to go nuts and they are a little rough (lets just say, beyond cleaning) If that doesn't help then I don't know what it is. The instrument cluster solder joints were mentioned by alvin. Could this be the problem with the ABS light AND the dying at stopsigns/sputtering on take off?
 
#15 ·
Re. the code, if it's an ABS code then you need a DRBIII or aftermarket "pro" scanner to read it. Maybe that's what has to be done. ABS/BCM/airbag codes do not come in standard OBDII format. On the other hand, with a bad solder joint, you'd eventually get P1698, a transmission code which would show on a regular scanner.
 
#16 ·
Well as soon as I have time, I'm going to take it up to the shop and put it on the Modis or Genisys and see what it says, I'll just have to time it right so the light will be on when I get up there.
 
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