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Common symptoms of bad solenoid pack?

220K views 41 replies 18 participants last post by  mcquaderichard 
#1 ·
:hi2: What are symptoms of a failing or worn/gummed up solenoid packs? Or common ones should I say. Anything in particular? ex:delayed/hesitant upshifts, shuddering, etc. I think this would be a good thread to start so people that believe their solenoid pack may be the culprit of their tranny problems can come and read about common problems and issues with them when they are failing or gummy on the inside. Any suggestions or thoughts are much appreciated. :ThumbsUp:

:thewave:
 
#3 ·
Why are so many solenoid packs being replaced? They seem to be blamed frequently for leaks, and get replaced because of that. Otherwise maybe they are often replaced needlessly.
I checked under my van today after a 1 hour trip and no leak. Ambient temperature was +4 C. If the temperature were -4C, there would be a slight leak during cool down. During the Winter I lose 0.5 to 1.0 liter due to this leak, no loss during the Summer. Go figure. Transmission works fine and no codes are showing up.
 
#5 ·
Of all the boards I've been checking on chrysler products i seems that more people on here toss a solenoid pack at every problem. In the service manual, it says how to test the solenoids using a multimeter and to use some pressure gauges. I checked with a couple reputable transmission shops and my local dodge dealer and they all say the the solenoids pack are rarely a failure. Most agree the most common problem is differential pin failure in the first few years of these generation 3 vans. They all say that planet failures are really common especially when the transmission is flushed the wrong way and any junk in the cooler ends up blocking off the planet circuits. But from what I have found out, it's not really a common problem for the solenoids to go bad. Looking even deeper into the design of the solenoids, they are nothing more than a coil of wire that makes a metal arm move to open or close a needle valve. Seems pretty simple and I would think easy to test and diagnose. Did you know, according the the shop manuals, you can make the solenoids engage with a scanner and using a pressure gauge you can see if its working?
 
#6 ·
Well I wasn't trying to spark up this, I was just trying see what can go wrong with them and what symptoms show up.
 
#7 ·
I see that if in the rare occasion they fail the trans just dont shift at all. According to the transmission specialists they say theres some things that have gone wrong like a bad magnetic coil winding, a failed diode and that's about it. They told me that if there's a solenoid problem it's like 99% wiring or computer problems. I'm only able to recite what I was told for what it's worth.
 
#9 ·
I've read about the passages and screens in them getting gummed up. I'm guessing this would cause a restriction and cause a delayed shift or shudder or etc.
 
#10 ·
I read thru the entire diagnostics for that code on Mitchell On-demand and it basically leads to a solenoid shift valve is sticking or not moving so I went to a trans web site and I see that valve is actually located in the valve body. There is no spring or anything on this valve. It looks like when the trans shifts to 2nd and higher the valve moves and the same solenoid that does L/R piston now controls torque converter lockup. Sure seems easy how it works now if I only knew how to fix them.
 
#11 ·
Mine hasn't failed, it's just leaking. I don't want it continuing to leak in my garage. If I can replace it for $100, and it looks like a fairly simple job, why not? More peace of mind when I start towing with it, and less stains in my garage (or less cardboard laying around).
 
#12 ·
I have some short experience with the SPs. As those who followed my posts on my leaking 99 Ltd.

First I removed the old pack and replaced just the gasket.....the leaking continued, actually got worse.
Then I replaced the pack and another gasket myself, but the leaking continued.
Finally I had a dealer replace the pack......leaking stopped.

Go figure, all I know was it worked......no leaking now. :thumb:
 
#13 ·
Yeah, that's what scares me a bit. I followed your thread and thought all was well. I didn't know it still leaked on you.

Any idea what went wrong?
 
#15 ·
I seen pictures of the solenoid pack and there are some alignment dowels that help locate the pack. there are 2 versions of the packs. The old style uses a separator plate and 2 gaskets, the new style uses just a gasket. The pictures show that the gaskets are different so you don't want to mix them up. torque on the bolts is like 105inlbs.
 
#16 ·
manic,

parts man at dodge dealership told me the solenoid pack is a common problem. new one costs about $200, but the gaskets only cost $6.

regards...

dnorm
 
#17 ·
a solenoid is a mechanical 'switch' operated by a coil, which becomes a magnet when voltage is applied. the coil is a very long, very thin wire wound around a form. light bulb filaments burn through, and so will the wire in a coil. an open wire will not allow current to flow... no current flow, no magnet, solenoid does not work...

dnorm
 
#18 ·
Yep. I'm not sure what's going on with mine, it's still functons but it sounds very weak when it buzzes, maybe the electromagnet is getting weak or somethings are getting clogged up.
 
#20 ·
sideburns,

a solenoid should not 'buzz'... if it is, it is 'ready to fail'... if it is 'buzzing', the coil is not strong enough to lock it into position, so the actuator is vibrating back and forth. it is not 'locking' into the 'on' position, so it keeps trying... (could be the 'gumming up' one mentioned, or a piece of debris blocking the valve.)

electromagnets do not 'get weak'. they work, or they fail, but if the channel for the actuator is 'gummy' or partailly blocked... i recommend you do a flush and filter (and magnet) change, and soon. pull the pan to do so, but you should look into running some solvent in the tranny for a few minutes first, something similar to 'motor flush', which i use before i change my oil and filter.

btw, guys...

the newer solenoid pack was introduced in 1999, per the dealer, and will retrofit to older transmissions... new design, same function... the differences are...

the 'spacer plate' between the solenoid pack and the tranny is discarded, so only one gasket is needed, not two...

it IS a different gasket...

i assume that the new one is cheaper to produce, and therefore may not be as high a quality unit as the old one. the new gasket is a different cutout, to match the new channels in the new unit (and the new transmissions, i suppose) to the channels in the old transmission.

there are 'placement pins' (as others earlier have said) on the solenoid pack which position it on the tranny. the older solenoid pack 'pins' pass through both gaskets and the spacer... since the spacer is not used when retrofitting, i would bet those pins are shorter...

regards...

dnorm
 
#23 ·
I'm not going to use any sort of flush or solvent in my tranny...not good for it. The fluid and filter have been changed regularly and recently along with 8 quarts of fluid exchanged out with new ATF+4, so I'm going to count out the fluid. ALL A604 and 41TE solenoid packs, along with almost all other chrysler transmission, make the buzzing noise. It was only on the 4th gens(I believe, but not sure) when it was revised and made much quieter. I was referring to how the sound of the buzz has drastically changed. :thumb:
 
#22 · (Edited)
Yes, it is normal and the all do it except for the newer revised solenoid packs.The buzz pattern has vastly changed on mine. It used to be sort of short, strong sounding buzzes like all of my A604's and 41TE's but now the buzzes are very very long and sound quieter and very weak, along with the rough shifting, I'm thinking I need a new solenoid pack.
 
#24 ·
Could the problem of not shifting into gear until it warms up, be related to the solenoid pack?

The shop explained to be that it means the trans is simply old, and the internal valves and components are gummed up with varnish. might also mean the pump is going.

I did replace the filter, but was told to NEVER flush an old trans, so I did not. I'll probobly have it rebuilt since I really like the van. Could the solneoid pack cause a problem like that? They are cheap enough on ebay that its probobly worth a try. If I end up rebuilding... well... then It already has a new pack installed.
 
#26 ·
I checked with chrysler and the say ALL functioning soleniod packs make a buzzing noise just some are louder than others. The oringals had a thick rubberize cover to dampen customer NVH complaints. They also tell me that the solenoids will never be the cause of delayed engagement and that valves in the valve body rarely cause problems except for the solenoid shift vavle. I looked at the 604 Ultradrive reference book and it shows only 5 valves in the valve body manual valve to shifter which only has 3 postions park/neutral, reverse, forward direct to 2nd gear only. that's it and the solenoids do the 1, 3, 4 gears. It also says if the trans it computer operating correctly, you can throw it in reverse while going forward with no internal damage, but if in limpin it will go into reverse and do damage. I tried this with my 1994 town and country when a guy was riding my butt, the back up lights came one and the trans went to neutral, then he backked off and I put it in od and it worked perfect.
 
#27 ·
I tried this with my 1994 town and country when a guy was riding my butt, the back up lights came one and the trans went to neutral, then he backked off and I put it in od and it worked perfect.
Pardon my language, but that was a BALLSY move! I would never throw my gear selector into reverse while hauling down the road in drive. Good lord... just the thought makes me nervous.
 
#37 ·
The "newer" solenoids work on the older transmissions. You just have to leave the separator plate off. Putting the plate on the new pack will cause all sorts of problems.
 
#38 ·
Well just yesterday morning I noticed the trans acting differently & the check engine light came on while taking the family out to breakfast. Happened while in San Diego,a 430 mile drive from were I live.I had the code read & turrned out to be codes, P1776 & P0770.
Searched this board for the issues at hand & it really paid off.I just unplugged the battery & cleaned all the related plugs/connectors with WD40 (it's what I had on hand) & was able to drive the family back with no problems.No engine lights or trans problems what so ever.
Question is,not long I changed the fluid with ATF+3 or +4 along with new filter & a trans cooler.Would I need to do it again?
Also should I just go ahead & replace the Transmission control solenoid?
Thanks,Juan
 
#40 ·
I think mine has to be replaced, the torque converter locks up on highway but doesn't seem to unlock and engine stalls when exiting highway and coming to a stop.

Here's my post about the issue.
http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sh...lling-when-exiting-highway-dealer-is-clueless!
The part is. About $150 but I not know where it's located and how to replace it. I am about to bring it to another dealer because the first dealer was clueless. Please pm me any advice / info.
Thanks , Louis
 
#42 ·
I will continue to drive my 1997 until it quits. Engine is incredibly strong 3.3. Van will not go above 2nd but no lights etc. come on. Will do 55 at 4000 rpm. Will actually go higher. Told that the planetary gear is bad. Cost to rebuild? $2800.00! Not worth it after paying $1100. for my Rallye. So will drive until the end. Has lived for 230k so far. Still look for a tranny at a reasonable price, but, there is none. Wrecking yard? Will not touch one as they do not cover all the labor! Love these vans and maybe will find another.
 
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