The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

3.3 Litre Power Steering Pump - Removal

15K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  MOSDAUMD 
#1 ·
After much cussing/swearing/crying I have finally managed to remove the PS Pump from my 97' Grand Voyager LE.

The attached photo shows the mounting bracket which caused so much grief, and the numbers represent :-

1. Lower Alternator Mounting Point.
2. Rear Bracket Mounting Point.
3. Belt Tensioner Mounting Point.
4,5,6. Bracket To Engine Block Mounting Points.
7,8,9. Pump to Bracket Mounting Points.

As well as the above, there is also a crossbrace bolted to the back of the pump itself.

Bolt #9 is completely hidden by the ribs on the bracket and the pump pulley. It can only be seen and removed by turning the whole assembly edge-on to the bracket so that you are looking from bolt #5 towards bolt # 9.

There is no way the pump - with or without bracket attached - can be removed through the exhaust tunnel, and it won't come out between the driveshaft and wheelarch (inner fender) with the pulley still attached.

To get it out, I resorted to removing the Crankshaft Pulley.
Forget what the manuals say about removing the road wheel/driveplate cover and jamming a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth while a 'helper' undoes the crankshaft pulley bolt. (my dog is clever, but not THAT clever :lol:). All I did was to slide a large screwdriver through one of the gaps in the pulley and in front of the engine block. Once pressure is applied to the bolt the screwdriver won't fall out, and with only 40 lb/ft torque on the bolt it comes loose easily.
You WILL need a 2 legged puller to get the crankshaft pulley off, but I just happen to have one from many years ago.

I have a used replacement pump ready to go in next time it's not raining/snowing and hopefully I won't have any more problems.


P.S. anybody in the UK needing used parts (not just for minivans), try http://www.autobreakers.co.uk
My PS Pump cost £35.00, already removed from the car and waiting for me to collect. They also do overnight delivery of whatever you need.
 
See less See more
#4 ·
Yep. And that how I felt trying to get the damn thing out !

This pic is the diagram from the Haynes manual, obviously its identical twin - NOT.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
I did consider pulling the driveshaft, problem is the car is sat on wheelramps at the front with the belt/alternator etc already removed.. As it happened, removing the crankshaft pulley proved a far easier way to get the pump out. the reason for removing the Cat & Exhaust - which I did - is for easier access to the bolts at the rear.
 
#9 ·
No need to remove the bracket, OR the exhaust. I've removed these 4 times, and installed 3 times. Always with front on jack stand, wheel off. It does suck getting to the bolts at the rear, but it can be done (as well as the rear bolt/nut for the belt tensioner). I did have to remove the front brake line bracket bolted to the aluminum crossmember for clearance, and it took a lot of turning the pump this way and that but it came out. It has to be removed and installed with the pulley ON, so that's what complicates the heck out of it.

I changed the one in my sister's 97 because of a shaft leak, got one from the junkyard for my 2000 which turned out to be bad. So installed that one, removed it, and installed a new one. Also during that time i had to swap the alternator, so I had that out and did one removal/install out the top.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MOSDAUMD
Top