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Blower motor resistor removal?

8K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  Doug_C 
#1 ·
It appears the resistor is secured from the inside of the firewall, I removed the glove box but still can't get to it. Any help will be appreciated. BTW it's a 96 caravan 3.0.
 
#2 ·
#4 ·
OOOps, wrong Thread, Wrong Generation. Try Post #18 of this thread instead: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php?t=9988&highlight=blower+resistor&page=2
3rd Generation: under the hood on the fire wall near motor location. The following Thread, and Posts #9 & #11 in particular, tells where the resistor is located on a 3rd Generation and how to replace it. http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php?t=9851
May as well go to this one first. It has the pictures: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=340871
 
#3 ·
I just changed mine its also a 3.0 but 2000 voyager, mine was burnt, had to pull it hard since the little metal things where bent had to pull it hard from the engine compartment, however mine had a bit burnt the connector but I cleaned it and it worked, if gets on fire Ill just collect the insurance ajajajajaa
 
#7 ·
Hi just changed my resistor on a 1999 chrysler t&c --just yank it out -any way you can -held in with clips-use a screw driver to pry it out from the shock tower side-do not worry about damaging the clips-you have new ones on the new resistor- do not pull on the wiring -but do pull the wiring and the resistor out together-then separate the plug and the wire harness- the wire harness may need to be replaced-but do inspect it for wear-or rust
 
#8 ·
To answer the question in its original form, there actually is a way to access the spring tabs from behind the firewall. The resistor sits inside HVAC housing, and can be reached through the recirculation door opening after removing the blower motor cover (but not the motor, 4 screws). The door has to be in the "fresh air" position. This may even be less painful then the usual way.
 
#9 ·
HI ALVIN PLEASE INDICATE THE YEAR VAN YOU ARE WORKING ON-AS MY 1999 CHRYSLER t&c-HAD NO ACCESS FROM BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX-AS OTHER POSTS HAVE ALSO INDICATED YOU WOULD FIND-ALWAYS INCLUDE BASIC INFO-YEAR-MODEL-ETC -IN THESE POSTS-SO OTHERS CAN BE OF MORE HELP WITH A GIVEN SUBJECT
 
#11 ·
Hey Tony0707,
STOP YELLING ! ! !
I can hear you just fine in "lowercase" ......
:lol:
Update your "LOCATION", please ......

Access to some are through the firewall from the engine compartment side, instead of the glove box.
 
#10 ·
Mine is a 1999 model so it's the right forum.
The cover is not behind the glove box but on the bottom of the blower housing, facing down. The glove box can stay in place (closed) for this procedure. It's the cover you would have to remove for replacing the blower motor, but taking it off also allows to reach through the air intake towards the firewall side of the housing.
There's lots of room to work, just use a good light.
 
#13 ·
Some models require you remove the glove box, some models are below the glove box, just under the dash, where your feet go. Mine is on the firewall inside the engine compartment to the very left near the hood hinge.
 
#14 ·
Just to clarify one more time: on 3d gen. we're talking about, the resisitor is always found in the same spot. Behind the hole in the firewall, there's a hole in the HVAC housing, so the resistor actually sits in the air flow inside that big black box. Because of that, the locking tabs can be accessed from within the box, through the recirculation door passage as described above.
 
#15 ·
The best way to remove the resistor is from under the hood! A flat blade screwdriver is all it takes to pry it out, the new one will simply snap right in to place, no need to crawl under the dash. The hardest part is unplugging the connector, it's a helluva tight fight.
 
#16 ·
There is simply no room for a regular-sized screwdriver if one wants to use it as shown in the service manual, that is to slide it under the seal from the side and push the tab inwards.
But the difficulty does depend on one's dexterity, and of course the brute force method is another story. I had to improvize with makeshift tools (bent metal strips, sharpened dowel sticks) to remove that part. The second method was found later, by accident.
 
#19 ·
Very hard to unplug! I actually had to break the plastic around the plug on the resistor to get it apart. Applied a little grease to the connector in order to get it plugged back in. It's a tight fit but not water tight, Chrysler should have used a weather pack connector but then again, there are many things Chrysler "should have" done :jpshakehe
 
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