The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

hello- power steering pump 3.8L

32K views 32 replies 20 participants last post by  nt8us 
#1 ·
Hey folks, I did a search on how to remove/replace a power steering pump but couldnt find a thread. I followed a Chiltons manual, and it said that the pump had to be removed via taking the exhaust/cat off and removing the pump through that area. After trying everything else, I followed the manual. OH MY GOSH. I finally did it after many hours.... (with the pulley attached- I tried to replace the broken pulley up in the van first. I had the pump hanging loose. But the pulley tool had a bent bolt so it pressed the pulley on crooked (sp). Was there a better way to do this???? I couldnt get off the pump bracket because the alternator bolt up top, seemed inacessible. Meanwhile the pulley got a few small chip out of the edges.... 1/4-3/8".Will this destroy the belt. After 8 hrs of hard work, I have only to connect everything, (oh, thats all) and put on the serpentine belt. Was there a better way? I appreciate any help. Jery
 
#2 · (Edited)
The Haynes Manual says the same thing regarding the exhaust removal.
Here's the Auto Zone methodology:
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528003c7d4
Does the belt come in contact with the chipped out areas. If there are no projections, the belt should be okay, I would think - it would be better to see a picture though to assess. Nicks can be filed off. Will the balance be off? You can always run it and see what happens, might need to replace the pulley later.
Did you replace the reservoir? They apparently have a screen in them and get plugged up - hence power steering noise. Replaced mine a month or so ago. Noise went away.
 
#4 ·
Makes sense.
I wonder if disconnecting the front motor mount and rotating the engine to get at the power steering better would work as well.
Working from underneath sounds like a royal pain to avoid.
 
#6 ·
The noise was evident during parking. Otherwise there wasn't any noticeable noise.
I also replaced the fluid in the reservoir about 5 times afterward to get in as much fresh fluid as possible.
It is worth a try, the reservoir isn't expensive. There is a bolt in the back that holds the bracket that you should be aware of.
 
#7 ·
I removed my pulley when the pump was still in the vehicle. Without the pulley, it was able to squeeze out without removing the cat and exhaust.

I reinstalled the new pump the same way, then pressed the pulley on in place.

My 96 is still sitting in my garage awaiting a steering rack overhaul....after all the work of installing a new pump, three months later the end seals on the steering gear failed and began leaking fluid all over.

I just haven't decided if i spring for a reman unit or overhaul my own unit....nor have I had the time.
 
#8 ·
Last week, the 98 GC was slinging oil onto the catalytic converter, and going down the road, looking like an airshow exhibit.

Pulled the driveshaft, and got it out that way. Haynes, and Factory shop manual both say to pull it through the exhaust tunnel. I looked for a different way.

3.5 hours, but I work slow.
 
#9 ·
Another way is to remove the PS pump from it's bracket, leaving the PS pulley on, then removing the Crankshaft pulley which gives enough room to get the pump out through the side.
 
#10 ·
How about working from the top as Post #3 mentioned? Has anybody on here done that. I don't have a hoist so working from underneath, on my back, is avoided if possible.
 
#11 ·
You still need to get underneath to unbolt the PS Pump, or hang upside down to reach it :bcyclop:
 
#13 ·
i hear you, jeeepman. i was there, laying on my back trying to get the pump out from the exhaust/cat converter (instructions from chilton repair manual).
i spoke all kind of languages, not just french, in my garage for that 3, 4 days; until the tech from the dealer suggested to remove from the top. once, i even thought about removing the crank pulley. LOL.
 
#14 ·
What year is your Van? This is a third Generation thread. I just checked the 4th Generation (Haynes Manual) and it says remove from the top. The arrangement is different on the 4th generation, I believe.
 
#19 ·
I just did mine, had to remove the wiper system shroud, which is no big deal, and when it was time to weasel the pump out the top, we put a crowbar on the motor mount to move the engine about 1/4" and we were able to get it out. I had to buy a new pulley from the dealer though, no way to get that thing off. You do need to remove the plastic splash guard underneath, and then its easy to grab the tensioner to get the belt off. Replace your plugs while you have the shroud off! :)
 
#21 ·
It's good to know that there's is more than one way to skin a cat....I mean, remove a ps pump. I checked my van out and taking through the exhaust tunnel just looks like a wasted day waiting to happen. Taking it through the top just made more sense. Maybe if I had a hoist (like the haynes people) taking it off the bottom would make sense.
 
#26 ·
I would like to make a correction to my previous statement. I recently performed this task on my old van with my brother in law. We removed and re-installed the pump through the wheel well. We had to move the brake line over to fit it, but it worked.
 
#22 ·
97 T&C 3.8 Lxi AWD Power Steering Pump

I just spent most of my day tearing one of these apart in my driveway. Here is the problem:
Unlike all the illustrations from Chilton, Autozone, etc. a single bracket holds both the power steering pump and belt tensioner. It is all one piece sitting on my garage floor. I'll be happy to send digital photos if anyone wants proof.​

This single bracket has a single mounting bolt that also holds one corner of the alternator bracket to the engine. The alternator bracket is mounted UNDER the power steering/tensioner bracket.​

I suspect the Lxi with the towing package is built a bit differently from the more common versions found in the repair manuals.​

I had to remove all the bolts from the power steering/tensioner bracket assembly, remove all the bolts from the alternator brackets, and move the alternator out of the way as far as possible.​

There is also a hidden bolt on the backside of the engine between the tensioner and the firewall. It attaches the corner of the power steering/tensioner bracket to a bar that is mounted somewhere under the intake manifold. You can't see it from any angle. You just have to feel for it.​

Once I had the power steering/tensioner bracket and alternator bracket loose from the engine I could see the one bolt that holds them together. This bolt is on the INSIDE of the brackets between the brackets and the engine. You can not separate the power steering/tensioner assembly from the alternator bracket until both are unbolted from the engine.​

After I got all the brackets out of the way I had to disconnect and move the passenger side brake line to get the power steering pump and pulley out on the floor. Even with that it was a frustrating chore.​

There is no way this particular pump and pulley would fit through the space where the catylitic converter is mounted.​

I have no idea if I'll be able to get everything back in where it belongs. I'll be checking with the dealership and other repair shops tomorrow for estimates.

I still expect to do the job myself. I suspect paying someone else for the labor to do this entire job would effectively total my otherwise well kept Town & Country.
 
#32 ·
97 T&C 3.8 Lxi AWD Power Steering Pump

I just spent most of my day tearing one of these apart in my driveway. Here is the problem:
Unlike all the illustrations from Chilton, Autozone, etc. a single bracket holds both the power steering pump and belt tensioner. It is all one piece sitting on my garage floor. I'll be happy to send digital photos if anyone wants proof.​

This single bracket has a single mounting bolt that also holds one corner of the alternator bracket to the engine. The alternator bracket is mounted UNDER the power steering/tensioner bracket.​

I suspect the Lxi with the towing package is built a bit differently from the more common versions found in the repair manuals.​

I had to remove all the bolts from the power steering/tensioner bracket assembly, remove all the bolts from the alternator brackets, and move the alternator out of the way as far as possible.​

There is also a hidden bolt on the backside of the engine between the tensioner and the firewall. It attaches the corner of the power steering/tensioner bracket to a bar that is mounted somewhere under the intake manifold. You can't see it from any angle. You just have to feel for it.​

Once I had the power steering/tensioner bracket and alternator bracket loose from the engine I could see the one bolt that holds them together. This bolt is on the INSIDE of the brackets between the brackets and the engine. You can not separate the power steering/tensioner assembly from the alternator bracket until both are unbolted from the engine.​

After I got all the brackets out of the way I had to disconnect and move the passenger side brake line to get the power steering pump and pulley out on the floor. Even with that it was a frustrating chore.​

There is no way this particular pump and pulley would fit through the space where the catylitic converter is mounted.​

I have no idea if I'll be able to get everything back in where it belongs. I'll be checking with the dealership and other repair shops tomorrow for estimates.

I still expect to do the job myself. I suspect paying someone else for the labor to do this entire job would effectively total my otherwise well kept Town & Country.
Hi. Retired tech doing p/s pump, hoses and tensioner on '97 Town & Country with 3.8L. Once pulley pulled from bracket behind engine and crank pulley removed came out easy so far. Reinstalling pump pulley behind engine again.
 
#24 ·
How to Replace Power Steering Pump on Chrysler 99 minivan, 3.3L

I also read the factory manual info about having to remove the exhaust system to get the power steering pump out. Instead, since I was also planning on replacing the serpentine belt and tensioner, I took off the right frt wheel, the splash guard, then the belt and tensioner, the crank pulley (easy to get to), loosened the alternator and unbolted the power steering pump from the alt/PS bracket (remember to get single bolt at back of bracket), and then removed the bracket. At this point, was able to get at PS lines easily and unbolt them, and then removed the PS pump out through the wheel well. Took a while, but seemed like this was easier than removing the exhaust/Cat system.

Purchased a reman PS pump from Pep Boys, and it came w/o the pulley. Note that the pulley on your PS pump is plastic. I would recommend just buying a new one since they only cost about $13 for an aftermarket part (e.g., Autozone). Also, and this is important, make sure you use one of the correct puller/installer tools when removing or installing the pulley. Autozone loans the tools with a deposit -- Tool made the job achievable - cheesy tool supplied with the rebuilt pump did NOT work for me. Also, since all of the pump except the inner "hub" is plastic, you can't use a standard puller to remove it - The plastic breaks ... Guess how I found this out?

Lastlly, a neat trick to hold the pulley while you are using the tool to "press" the pulley onto the shaft is to wrap the old serpentine belt around the pulley (assuming you plan to replace it!) and then clamping the belt in the vise to "pinch" it around the pulley. This will distribute the load around the pulley, hold it from spinning, and provides enough leverage so you can reasonably easy crank on the tool with your wrench while sort of supporting the P/S pump with your other hand. It required a fair effort to press the pulley flush with the shaft, but be patient and it'll work out OK.

Good luck!
 
#25 ·
Details,Details

I also read the factory manual info about having to remove the exhaust system to get the power steering pump out. Instead, since I was also planning on replacing the serpentine belt and tensioner, I took off the right frt wheel, the splash guard, then the belt and tensioner, the crank pulley (easy to get to), loosened the alternator and unbolted the power steering pump from the alt/PS bracket (remember to get single bolt at back of bracket), and then removed the bracket. At this point, was able to get at PS lines easily and unbolt them, and then removed the PS pump out through the wheel well. Took a while, but seemed like this was easier than removing the exhaust/Cat system.

Purchased a reman PS pump from Pep Boys, and it came w/o the pulley. Note that the pulley on your PS pump is plastic. I would recommend just buying a new one since they only cost about $13 for an aftermarket part (e.g., Autozone). Also, and this is important, make sure you use one of the correct puller/installer tools when removing or installing the pulley. Autozone loans the tools with a deposit -- Tool made the job achievable - cheesy tool supplied with the rebuilt pump did NOT work for me. Also, since all of the pump except the inner "hub" is plastic, you can't use a standard puller to remove it - The plastic breaks ... Guess how I found this out?

Lastlly, a neat trick to hold the pulley while you are using the tool to "press" the pulley onto the shaft is to wrap the old serpentine belt around the pulley (assuming you plan to replace it!) and then clamping the belt in the vise to "pinch" it around the pulley. This will distribute the load around the pulley, hold it from spinning, and provides enough leverage so you can reasonably easy crank on the tool with your wrench while sort of supporting the P/S pump with your other hand. It required a fair effort to press the pulley flush with the shaft, but be patient and it'll work out OK.

Good luck!
Nice post on this labor intensive repair.
Can you elaborate on your reassembly. How did you make out with the single bolt at the back of the Alt/PS bracket? How was your vehicle elevated when you took the front right wheel off? Jack-stands-ramps-hoist-etc? How long did the whole procedure take?
 
#27 ·
I did the one on my sister's 97 T&C like garstein did. I did not have to move any brake line to get it out. I removed the pump with the pulley and metal reservoir attached, and pulled it out thru the bottom. The AutoZone pump is the bare pump, so I had to transfer the metal reservoir and pulley over. I didn't have any special tools to pull off the pulley either, but the right size socket and a hammer worked. :) Put it back in the same way. It took 4 or 5 hours to do, with the van on a jack stand (placed on engine/crossmember cradle) in a small, unheated garage in the winter. My sister's 97 also has the factory running boards, which make it a pain to get/work underneath. That was the last thing I had to fix that was wrecked by the serpentine belt coming off.
 
#28 ·
I wouldn't recomend hammering the pulley back on, it's almost sure to damage the pump to some degree.
 
#29 ·
I did the job last year, no way was it possible through the catalytic hole as mentioned in the Chrysler shop manual for GV 1996 3.8L section and mentioned in few posts, maybe 3.8 is a bigger beast. Nerver thought of pulling the pulley off while pump still in place or hanging. The way i got it done was by removing the drive shaft undoing the strut and tie rod, then had waaayyy ample room for the job and hidden bolt etc. and got the pulley removed and installed by a local shop, will do it myself next time with rented/free tolls. while at it , i replaced the pressure and return hoses which were clearly about to give to rust (salty canadian roads). removing and installing them from the steering gear was THE major pita of the job. Now 1 year later, the bearing of the pump is chirping like mad and i'll have to get to the PS again, I'll try the top technique (removing wiper craddle/alternator brackets etc...) this time as i need to change the serp tensioner as well. Doing this for the joy of maintaining the GV in shape as its paid for and has a very well controlled rust degenerescence ...will get back if any worthwhile event to share
cheers
 
#30 ·
I did the job last year, no way was it possible through the catalytic hole as mentioned in the Chrysler shop manual for GV 1996 3.8L section and mentioned in few posts, maybe 3.8 is a bigger beast.
3.3 or 3.8, makes no difference. It is physically impossible to take the pump out through the Zorst tunnel without removing the pulley from the pump (they forgot to mention that in the shop manual). I went the crank pulley route and pulled the pump out through the wheel well.

i replaced the pressure and return hoses which were clearly about to give to rust (salty canadian roads). removing and installing them from the steering gear was THE major pita of the job.
Tell me about it !
Who had the bright idea of using an 18mm hex on the hose fittings? I tried EVERYWHERE to get an 18mm crowsfoot wrench, but could only get one as part of a large (read expensive) set. So I used a short 18mm combination wrench with a slot cut in the ring end, with another wrench over the open end to give me leverage.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top