Passenger Side power window works intermittently



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Thread: Passenger Side power window works intermittently

  1. #1
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    Passenger Side power window works intermittently

    The passenger side power window doesn't go up and down all the time. Sometimes, it will stop when attempting to roll it up.

    It seems you have to give it a "break" for it to work again.

    If you give it a break for 10 seconds it may go up an inch. If you let it rest for 1 minute it will go up all the way.

    This is obviously a thermal issue.

    However, I don't know if the motor is getting to hot due to an internal problem, or if something is binding.

    I have had the paneling off for days now. I sprayed around with some WD-40, but the motor still sticks eventually.

    The biggest problem is that I don't know what I am looking at inside the door.

    (I have never really messed around with the inside of one).

    I can tell you that when the problem happens, pressing the driver side switch doesn't help either.

    (This rules out the switches).

    Any thoughts or suggestions?

    I have read that installing a motor is easier if you buy the OEM one somewhere. Not sure why that is.

    If not, I'll just grab a motor at my local parts store or ebay.

    Thank you!
    98 White T&C lxi FWD 3.8 106k, Jasper Tranny, Aftermarket Tranny Cooler, 99+ seats, 99+ rims, 99-00 emblems and lettering, Nivomats, Class 1 Trailer Hitch, TYC headlamps, aftermarket driver mirror

    Waiting to go in:

    KYB GR2 front struts, NAPA Front Poly Swaybar Endlinks

    Other Vehicles owned:

    94 Infiniti G20, 93 Ford Escort GT

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  3. #2
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    Welcome to the Chrysler 4th Generation Window Regulator / Motor Replacement Club (TC4GWRMRC). Some things in life are not known for sure. The failure of this unit doesn't appear to be one of them.

    The motor gets weak or the window guides are offering too much resistance. So the motor trys for a second or two and the electrical overload protection in it kicks out (so as not to blow fuses, and create bigger problems). This most often happens in the up position and if one removes the door panel, and backs of the two little nuts holding the motor together, it will un-jam with a snap and start working again. Another solution is to press the switch as you slam the door, the jarring motion sometimes frees the motor up until next time.
    Other than being tedious and requiring patience, the replacement is not that bad to do yourself. I have done a couple.
    Here's a site that should help with doing the work yourself. I can find you other sources if need be. Let me know. I would replace the whole motor and regulator assembly (around $100.00).
    http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c1528003c929
    Another site to look at: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sho...ight=regulator
    When you click on this thread, a pop up "Power Window" ad shows up in the upper section. Click on that for a picture.
    Last edited by Jeepman; 07-15-2008 at 02:58 PM.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

  4. #3
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    I'd be highly suspicious that something is binding in the window regulator cabling.

    Since you have the door panel off, is there any cable fraying?

    The usual solution is to replace the power window regulator. I've done both of mine on my van. Not particularly difficult.

    Chad
    2003 Honda Odyssey EXL (3.5L)
    1997 Town & Country LXi (3.8L)
    1992 Honda Accord LX (2.2L)
    1990 Chevy K2500 (5.7L TBI)

  5. #4
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    Frayed cable was the culprit on my driver's side door about 2 months ago. A new unit was under $100 after tax at AdvanceAuto and it took about 45 minutes to replace (After I spent about 2 hours taking all the old stuff apart trying to figure out if I could just repair it or rewind the cable...)

    I called the dealer and they wanted something obscene - $550 I think - to do it. They said the part alone was over $300.

    If I remember, the only snag I had was you have to insert the forward track in the door first, then the rear track. The cables weren't long enough to allow me to do that in reverse....or maybe that was the other way around. Either way, I guessed wrong first, but it was easy to figure out.

    If you have a small mirror, you can use it to see exactly how the little metal clips hold the window glass to the regulator. That was the only part that was scary to me at first as I had never done that before. Ultimately, they're just two little c-clamp type clips that you can pop out with a screwdriver and pop back in with your hand. I should have taken pictures...

    Oh, and there will be LOTS of grease, so keep a roll of paper towels handy to dry your hands on occasion. And those rubber nuts used to hold on the original motor are a joke. Use the replacement nuts when you put it back together.
    - Dan

    '08 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 3.8 (65,000)
    '01 Buick LeSabre 3.8 (145,000)
    '73 Porsche 914 1.7 (???,???)

  6. #5
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    I had to replace the passenger side window regulator on a 98 GC about 8 months ago. I purchased one from ebay for $40 + $15 shipping. It's been working fine. It took me over an hour to do.

  7. #6
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    Here's what the regulator, including motor, looks like.
    When one mentions "cables", they are included as part of this assembly (the X shape is cables, the motor is in the center).
    http://www.directauto.com/category-e...rch_year/2002/
    Replace this regulator assembly to get rid of both motor and cable problems.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 115,600 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 314,240 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 246,430 kms

  8. #7
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    How to manually lower power windows...?

    I am replacing the motor and regulator in my 2002 Grand Caravan. It seems really straightforward, especially with the explicit instructions I have found here to date.

    The challenge I am facing: the window is in the UP position, and all sets of directions I have read state to lower the window so that you can see the clips that connect the regulator and glass.

    How does one lower the window manually?

    I have unbolted the entire regulator assembly and motor, and moved the "legs" of the regulator around to try to see more of the glass inside the door, to no avail.

    I think that I am very close to success, but just not able to get over this hurdle.

    Thanks for all the great info here to date, and thanks in advance to any help that may be forthcoming.

  9. #8
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    I ended up greasing everything up. So far no issues. If only my van was driveable! lol
    98 White T&C lxi FWD 3.8 106k, Jasper Tranny, Aftermarket Tranny Cooler, 99+ seats, 99+ rims, 99-00 emblems and lettering, Nivomats, Class 1 Trailer Hitch, TYC headlamps, aftermarket driver mirror

    Waiting to go in:

    KYB GR2 front struts, NAPA Front Poly Swaybar Endlinks

    Other Vehicles owned:

    94 Infiniti G20, 93 Ford Escort GT

  10. #9
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    Got it!

    I beat on the motor casing, and it got it working enough to lower the glass to work with. Wheh!

    Lesson learned: make sure the long cable is behind the motor and all other cables... the short cables make up the UL->LR (\) part of the X. The long cable (LR->UL or /) needs to be as long as it can to mount the unit and screw in all the screws.

    Wheh!


  11. #10
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    here's something to think about,
    my wife drives a cavalier, I know it is a chevy but she had the same problem for couple of years now, I found it to be the window swich, gets carbon build up on it, I clean them up they are ok for a while than it hapens again, never got a chance to properly deal with it, check out your swiches just in case.
    99 plymouth grand voyager se, 3.3 engine, 185 000 mi. recently replaced engine, repaired strut towers, and other odd ball repairs and now just finished rebuilding the tranny, should be good for a while.

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