Trying to repair the sliding door locking device



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Thread: Trying to repair the sliding door locking device

  1. #31
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    still having problems.

    OK, to answer previous question: My van is a 2007 T&C withOUT powered doors. The original motor in my actuator is the FC-280SC-20150. At first I bought the FC-280PT-20150 motor from active surplus per Cody's suggestion but I think he must have had a different model year because that definitely didn't work - the shaft comes out the wrong end for what I need.

    So then after reading some other forums and looking at some motor specs, I took a chance and bought a FC-280PC-22125 from ebay ( I think it was about $12 after shipping). I thought it would be a slightly higher torque equivalent to my motor. I finally got the gear off my old motor by baking it in the oven at 400 for about 25 minutes then I was able to pry it off. I think there was some epoxy or something in there that I broke loose after heating it up. With the gear in hand and some JB Weld, I was ready to seal the deal.

    I'm getting good at taking the door panel off and getting the acutator in and had it back up and running in about 30 minutes. Then the problem presented itself - I think the motor spins the wrong way. When I hit the "lock" button, the door unlocks and vice-versa. After spending a couple hours staring at it, I've determined that the motor spins Counterclockwise when the lock button is pressed, and it needs to spin Clockwise, so I don't think the FC-280PC-22125 is not a direct replacement for the FC-280SC-20150.

    Anybody know where I can get a FC-280SC-20150 or true equivalent? I'm back at the motor search now and am wondering if anybody else has the same issue. Not sure if it matters, but this door is the drivers side door.

    Thanks.

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  3. #32
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    You may just want to reverse the polarity of the wiring, unless you like taking the assembly apart constantly.
    Candy the van. '98 Sport 3.8L 132,200 miles. Used trans at ~96k. Great piece of my life and a fine van.

    '69 GTO drop top
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  4. #33
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    reverse the motor polarity

    This is what I'm going to do since I don't think I'll be able to get that gear off there anymore after the JB Weld. There are just 2 wires into the connector so I'll cut them and switch them and hope for the best...Thanks.

  5. #34
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    you might be able to just pull the contact pins out of the connector and reseat them in (reverse polarity) "correct" pos..
    relevant vehicle: '05 -=C=- T&C Ltd @~110K

  6. #35
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    Update on my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan with powered sliding doors.

    I ordered a couple of the Mabuchi FC-280PT-20150 motors, but from a different vendor than Cody and others used (see notes below). When I ordered them, I still wasn't absolutely sure which motors my van had. Note, it's still hard to say for certain whether the different Mabuchi motor models are a function of model year or powered sliding doors.

    This past Saturday, I yanked the door panel and actuator, opened the actuator (using a very small size Allen wrench, I didn't pay attention to the exact size, but I think it was metric), and sure enough, there was the now famous Mabuchi FC-280PT-20150 motor! I swapped out the motor, wrestled for a few minutes with the aforewarned big black gear (see sidebar below), replaced the actuator and the locks are back in business.

    NOTES on the Mabuchi motor:
    - Be very careful pulling the brass gear off the old motor. It's relatively delicate, and I almost damaged it beyond usability trying to get it off the motor shaft. The duct tape idea mentioned above by Cody is probably a good idea while pulling the gear off the motor shaft! I think this step is more critical than the aforewarned big black gear!
    - KUDOS TO CODY on posting the model number of the DC motor and how easy it is to find them.
    - The Mabuchi FC-280PT-20150 turns out to be a very common hobby DC motor. I actually found it in a nearby hobby store, but it was about $12 per motor.
    - I found them from a US-based vendor on Ebay, and was able to order 2 of them for $11 with shipping (less than 1 motor from the local hobby store).
    - I now have a spare motor for when the next actuator that goes out.
    - Also, KUDOS to BrodyB for his great photos of his 2002! They looked exactly like my 2006!

    SIDEBAR for black gear:
    - The big black gear is not a huge deal, it turns out to be relatively simple to put the gear back in.
    - The main trick with it is to make sure the sliding pin is located in the middle of the screw-shaft when you set the hooks of the return spring.
    - The Mabuchi will reverse it's direction, turning the screw-shaft one way or the other, depending on whether it's locking or unlocking. Therefore the slider must start in the middle of the screw-shaft. It was actually pretty easy to re-set it.

    My next project - dealing with the passenger side (powered) sliding door. It's gotten very temperamental on whether it will shut itself or not and at this point is basically functioning as a manual door (except it takes significantly more force to shut than a purely manual door). Seems like it may be a flaky switch or relay, when it does work, the motor seems fine.
    Last edited by Ron Hemphill; 06-14-2010 at 06:23 PM. Reason: Add one more comment about BrodyB

  7. #36
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    I just installed the "Mabuchi FC-280PT-20150 High RPM" Motor from Activesurplus.com ($1.50us) in the driver's side sliding door of my 2003 Grand Caravan Sport.

    The problem I was having was the elec. lock would not always operate (intermittent). It worked fine manually.

    A couple of points:
    - I used Star Pits sizes T8 & T15 for the actuator screws.
    - The gear slid off the old motor/shaft easily after heating it briefly with a torch (oven would work). Easy on the heat, the gear melts quickly.
    - I placed a T40 bit over the shaft/gear on the new motor to push the old gear onto the new shaft. The hole in the center of the bit allowed the shaft to come through thus pushing the gear down closer to the motor body.
    - I did not deal at all with the black wheel and springs as others mentioned. I just opened the actuator, popped out the old motor, switched the toothed gear to the new motor's shaft, pushed the new motor back in place = DONE!
    - There was no need to take the 3 torx screw in back edge of door out that hold the latch. I just removed door panel, folded back the black rubber sheeting and removed the 1 screw holding the actuator. Disconnected the 1 elec connector, metal bar, and removed the actuator as described in above post.
    - The toughest part of the whole project was getting the door panel back on.

    Thanks again for all of the earlier post...couldn't have done it without ya!!!!!

  8. #37
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    I have a 2006 Chrysler with non power doors. My motors have the screw type gear. Maybe Chrysler switched vendors part way through 2006? Here's a pic of my setup.

    I took the part number that was printed on the motor and Googled it (FC-280SC-20150). I found the Mabuchi tech sheet here: http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/en_US...fc_280pcsc.pdf All four of the motors listed have the same physical size, so every one will drop into the housing. I googled each number and the only motors that I could find were the FC-280PC-22125. These motors have slightly more torque than stock, so I figured they would be okay.
    I removed the gear from my old motor by heating with a torch, then prying it up. This worked well.
    The new motors had a slightly shorted shaft and were not splined like the old motors. I roughed up the shaft so the epoxy would stick. Then I marked the shaft to where the gear needed to be. (Since the shaft was shorter, I was concerned that I'd put the gear too far down.)
    Hard to see in this pic, but this is where I marked it.

    Next picture is with the epoxy and the gear installed. I was nervous that this would hold, so I also took a pair of channel locks and squeezed the end. The gear is brass (soft) and my goal was to pinch it on the shaft.

    I installed this in my van and just like the poster above (BrodyB), the lock worked opposite from the rest. The other thing that happened is that now the manual lock will not work. I took apart the module a second time and the spring under the big gear had come off its tang.
    Here's picture of the spring:

    I fixed that, but once back together it did it again. But since I got the electric to work, I won't worry about that for now.
    To fix the directional issue, I swapped the wires going into the connector. This was a bit of a hassle.

    It's hard to get the wires out of the connector, but I didn't want to cut and splice the wires. So others can learn, this is how I did it:

    First, I removed the yellow cover. There are two small slots on the top that span one of sockets. It's hard to describe, but if you could insert some SMALL tweezers in there and pinch, the cover would release. I just man handled it off- uh, carefully. Second, I took a flat bladed eye glass screwdriver (small!) and pushed it in above the sockets and levered the screwdriver down. this released the wire and it pulled out the back. I swapped the two wires and viola! It worked.
    The only issue I'm having now is that the lock won't work manually. I'm not really sure why other than the spring popping off its tang and I can't figure out how that's happening. Anyone have ideas on that? Otherwise, it's fixed for now and I thought it would be helpful for others.
    2006 Chrysler T&C LX 3.3L
    1992 Dakota 4x4
    1966 Dart GT SlantSix IRS

  9. #38
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    Do you have the rod hooked back up to that turquoise tab? If you move the lever where the tab is by hand, does it lock it?
    2005 Town and Country Limited
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  10. #39
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    I do have the rod hooked up. The lever that the rod attaches to will not move by hand. When I first put it back together it does, but after using the motor a couple times, it won't move by hand anymore.
    2006 Chrysler T&C LX 3.3L
    1992 Dakota 4x4
    1966 Dart GT SlantSix IRS

  11. #40
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    Dart,
    I have a 2006 T&C Touring 3.8L V6 with power doors & did the same as you step by step down to the FC-280PC-22125 from Ebay & my results were exactly the same. I cannot manually unlock nor open the door; the only alternative is to open the door automatically via the remote.
    The only difference I can see is the combination of the wires switched in the connector. Dart, you mentioned you have 2 wires going to the back of the connector, well I have 4 with the power doors. While holding the connector in hand identical to your picture with the yellow cover facing you, going right to left I have black/yellow, orange/blue stripe, peach/light blue stripe, & peach/dark blue stripe. I switched the peach/light blue with the peach/dark blue & was able to reverse polarity. As of right now I'm satisfied that we can fully lock the vehicle again but it is a pain in the arse that we can't manually unlock or open the passenger sliding door.

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