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Thread: Trying to repair the sliding door locking device

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Brampton Ontario Canada
    Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post

    1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

    Trying to repair the sliding door locking device

    Passenger side slider buzzed a bit last year, a sure sign something was up. Sure enough, the lock/unlock device failed a few months later. Manually locking/unlocking worked, but what a paid.

    I took it aprt today to see if it was something that I could fix... in short, no. Here are some pictures and procedures however.

    First- I loosened the 3 torx screws on the back (rear facing) side of the door, these 3 are around the latching mechanism.

    Then from inside, with the door partially closed, I popped off the door panel- use a screw driver to start popping 1 location, make your way around to pop off about 10 other plastic push-ins. You may break 1 or 2, you can buy replacements. You have to unscrew the juice box holder on top first.

    You will see a black/plastic dust cover stuck on the metal, once you remove the panel. I could not fully remove it without undoing some more bolts, so I just folded it over it as its on the other side of the door anyways.

    With the door closed, and you inside, you can pull out the whole locking mechanism which has a motor and other stuff all in one piece. you will need to remove a styrofoam piece, and undo the lock bar- pull back a holder, a the rod comes out of its holder. Slide the whole piece out, undo the power lock wiring harness (carefully).

    I checked the 4 pins for power- sure enough, 1 pin goes HOT when the lock is pressed to lock, another pin goes HOT when you unlock. Wire 3, I do not know what up with that, wire 4 was a ground, which had connectivity. I was pretty sure that I had no line cuts, so I continued with the removal.

    There is a small torx screw holding the locking actuator to the other things there. I now tested the locking device with a 12V battery. Little, or no movement so I was on the right path.

    I took apart the actuator (picture 1 below), and exposed the guts (picture 2). I popped out the motor (picture 3) and played with that for a bit to see if it was the motor. Sure enough, it was. The motor turned for 1-2 seconds, then stopped. Could be a diode, a current limiter, anything. So I popped the cover, and there was a lot of carbon & scortching (picture 4 below). Time to replace.

    Since is Sunday, and nothing is open, I put the van back together, the door is in LOCK mode, so I am safe till tomorrow.

    If I think about it, I will take pictures of the process to remove/replace this actuator.

    SOLD- 2002 ES AWD

    2009 F-150 Platinum Series super crew4x4, max tow, skid plates, DVD/Nav, box liner and cover. It pulls a 2010 Cougar XLite 27SAB 5th wheel with Pullrite 12K automatic sliding hitch.

    2001 PT, LE, 5spd, ABS, lowered, neons, 67000 kms...,

    2007 Caliber R/T AWD with leather (wife's)

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Saint Paul, Minnesota
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Keep up with the pictures if you can. They are worth a thousand words. My locks are fine for now - 2003 Voyager - but you never know when I might have to do the same thing you're doing.


  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Brampton Ontario Canada
    Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post

    1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.
    Stupid me, or so the day started out. I realized that the door is now locked, but there was no way to unlock it to open it, and get to the latch screws. I went to the stealership to get the part- $172 taxes in! Part number 1-04717961AB.

    Back home, I figurred that I could re-install the actuator without having to remove the latch! I had to hook the slotted end over the matching location in the locking mechanism, lined up the single screw hole, and gave it a try. It seemed to work. So I hooked up the power, and it worked- locked and unlocked!! Whoo hoo.... I had to remove once more to put the latch bar back in place and lock it down (see pictures below). Then, replace the foam piece, lock the bar in place at the front, replace the dust cover, then the panel lining up the push-in pieces and tapping with a mallet.

    Email me if you have any questions.


    Dust cover (marked with tape so I could re-align on re-install):

    Foam piece (marked so I could re-install)

    Connecting rods- both locked into place with the swing-over clip in place:

    Actuator and screw to remove it:

    Actuator and connecting rod, locked in place with the red pull-over holder:
    Last edited by PT_Sean; 06-30-2008 at 12:19 PM. Reason: typo

  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to PT_Sean For This Useful Post:

    Caravan_serai (06-07-2015), ESADORNED (02-03-2011)

  6. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.
    I just did this last weekend on one of my 2005 Grand Caravans. It was the drivers side sliding door and the part number was also 4717961AB. The list on it was $115, but ended up paying "shop price", which is 20% less ($84). The new actuator was larger than the original broken one that I removed. I was concerned it would not fit, but it does. Hopefully, the newer part is bigger because of a better (larger) motor. The shop manual instructs to remove the door handle and door stop, but those steps are unneccessary. The manual also instructs to remove the lock/latch assembly, which may not be necessary, but makes the job easier (especially when putting in the new actuator). Using duct tape to reapply the water shield (black rubber cover) works great. Also, the fastener pins they use to support the inside door panel to the frame are much better than in past generations (did not break or damage any). Some of the pins that stay attached to the door frame when removing the door panel are easily removed by popping them out (prying with a medium flathead screwdriver on the center underside of the pin). You want to have all pins secured in the door panel when reinstalling to the door frame. Overall, the job took about two hours. Good luck!

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to dodgeman For This Useful Post:

    Caravan_serai (06-07-2015)

  8. #5
    Join Date
    May 2004

    I'll be asking questions on this as the week progresses, our passenger sliding door lock has stopped functioning (I can see it try to go up and down, but it does not, only manually) Looks like I have to replace the motor to fix this. And it figures this is the same side I am constantly replacing my wire fix on, plus it has a bad clutch on this side also.
    2004 T&C Platinum Series - Brilliant Black

  9. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Thanked 4 Times in 1 Post

    I Fixed It!!!

    Hi all!
    I had the same exact problem with my door lock as PT SEAN did.
    It took some time but I was able to fix it for about five dollars!
    I was able to identify the motor and purchase two from through EBay.
    The worn-out motor in my lock assembly was labeled as a Mabuchi Motor. A little looking around on their website and I was able to identify the model number.
    Quite a few companies are selling these motors on the internet. The majority of companies selling these, however, are selling them in large quantities. I was able to purchase just two of the Mabuchi FC-280PT-20150 motors from Active Surplus.
    The only drawback is that Active Surplus is located in Canada. They shipped it to me in the US no problem though.

    Here’s how to fix your lock after you get your motor. Carefully remove and disassemble the lock assembly as PT Sean instructs. You’re going to have to take the gear off your old motor because the new one isn’t going to come with one. I wrapped my little gear up with some small pieces of duct tape to prevent any damage and pried it off. (The gear came off really easy). Putting the gear on the new motor took a little more effort but was really easy too. First I put one drop on loctite in the hole in the gear. (Not sure if I needed it or not but figured it wouldn’t hurt). I then pushed the gear onto the shaft as gently and straight as I could. I wasn’t able to seat the gear by hand so I placed the motor and gear into my shop vise and slowly pushed the gear onto the shaft.
    At that point all that is required is to put the motor back into the assembly and button it up.
    (If you happened to remove the large black gear from the assembly while performing all this work, you’re going to have problems getting it back in properly. It’s hard to explain but there is a return spring connected to the shaft. I’ve included pictures to illustrate how the spring looks in the incorrect position. )

    I am sure that this process will work for other small motors that need replacing on various other automobiles.
    Have fun!
    Attached Images

  10. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Cody For This Useful Post:

    amelnik (05-20-2011), ESADORNED (02-03-2011), gusc (12-02-2015), Joel_B (02-22-2014)

  11. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Thanks Cody for the info on the motor. The last actuator I replaced had stripped out the gear on the motor so I had to get the whole assembly.

  12. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
    Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts

    Active surplus is on Queen street in Toronto's downtown. I spent many hours years ago browsing through his place. A lot of everything down there. Cody, if you could post a part number for the motor from Active I would greatly appreciate it. I still have warranty for 20,000 more kms and 18 months yet, but for $5 I would pick a couple of those motors up cause ya just never know....down the road
    2015 Jeep Summit Diesel- Brilliant Black, Tan Leather
    Past Mopars:
    2004 Town & Country Limited AWD Brilliant Black w/Tow Package, NAV and Sat Radio, ATE slotted rotors w/ceramic pads
    1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport
    1996 Plymouth Gnd Voy LE
    1994 Dodge Gnd Caravan SE
    1989 New Yorker 5th Ave
    1984 Plymouth Reliant
    1979 Plymouth Caravelle T bar Roof
    1972 Imperial 4 dr
    1968 300 Convert.
    1968 Newport Custom
    1960 300F Coupe
    1960 300F Convert.
    1955 Windsor Deluxe 4dr

  13. #9
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts

    Thanks to PT and Cody for the excellent write up and info. I just repaired my 05 tonight. I ordered 4 motors from Canada a whopping $11 delivered and now have 3 backups. I have an extended Chrysler warranty but the deductible is $100. You guys saved me some $$$ here!

    Thanks and bunch and happy holidays

    2005 Town and Country Limited
    2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Megacab
    2006 32' Dutchmen Colorado 5th Wheel Bunkhouse
    2002 VW Jetta TDI
    "Once you go diesel, you never go back!"

  14. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Town Country

    I had the same problem a year ago and took it to the dealer (that was before I enrolled in this forum), they charged me $250 for parts and labor.

    A few weeks ago the other door presented the same problem but to my advantage I had the failed actuator I had replaced. I order two motors from ebay and replaced one in my extra actuator, it was a bit tricky to put back into place the large black gear but the tip and the pictures from "CODY" were a great help.

    After I followed the instructions I was able to make it work, but only with the remote, when I unlocked manually the door wouldn't open. I had to dissassemble again and I found that I didn´t place the actuator's arm correctly (the arm with the bigger hole). That hole has to fit a round part (about 1 cm) that unlocks/locks the latch when you are not using the remote.

    After reinstalling everything went well and now it works perfectly. Thanks everyone for the posts you saved me exactly USD244.

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