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Trying to repair the sliding door locking device
Passenger side slider buzzed a bit last year, a sure sign something was up. Sure enough, the lock/unlock device failed a few months later. Manually locking/unlocking worked, but what a paid.
I took it aprt today to see if it was something that I could fix... in short, no. Here are some pictures and procedures however.
First- I loosened the 3 torx screws on the back (rear facing) side of the door, these 3 are around the latching mechanism.
Then from inside, with the door partially closed, I popped off the door panel- use a screw driver to start popping 1 location, make your way around to pop off about 10 other plastic push-ins. You may break 1 or 2, you can buy replacements. You have to unscrew the juice box holder on top first.
You will see a black/plastic dust cover stuck on the metal, once you remove the panel. I could not fully remove it without undoing some more bolts, so I just folded it over it as its on the other side of the door anyways.
With the door closed, and you inside, you can pull out the whole locking mechanism which has a motor and other stuff all in one piece. you will need to remove a styrofoam piece, and undo the lock bar- pull back a holder, a the rod comes out of its holder. Slide the whole piece out, undo the power lock wiring harness (carefully).
I checked the 4 pins for power- sure enough, 1 pin goes HOT when the lock is pressed to lock, another pin goes HOT when you unlock. Wire 3, I do not know what up with that, wire 4 was a ground, which had connectivity. I was pretty sure that I had no line cuts, so I continued with the removal.
There is a small torx screw holding the locking actuator to the other things there. I now tested the locking device with a 12V battery. Little, or no movement so I was on the right path.
I took apart the actuator (picture 1 below), and exposed the guts (picture 2). I popped out the motor (picture 3) and played with that for a bit to see if it was the motor. Sure enough, it was. The motor turned for 1-2 seconds, then stopped. Could be a diode, a current limiter, anything. So I popped the cover, and there was a lot of carbon & scortching (picture 4 below). Time to replace.
Since is Sunday, and nothing is open, I put the van back together, the door is in LOCK mode, so I am safe till tomorrow.
If I think about it, I will take pictures of the process to remove/replace this actuator.
SOLD- 2002 ES AWD
2009 F-150 Platinum Series super crew4x4, max tow, skid plates, DVD/Nav, box liner and cover. It pulls a 2010 Cougar XLite 27SAB 5th wheel with Pullrite 12K automatic sliding hitch.
2001 PT, LE, 5spd, ABS, lowered, neons, 67000 kms...,
2007 Caliber R/T AWD with leather (wife's)