Installing window lift moter in 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan SE



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Thread: Installing window lift moter in 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan SE

  1. #1
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    Installing window lift moter in 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan SE

    I just joined this forum. I'm trying to figure how to install a window lift motor in a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan SE. Passenger side. Supposedly there is a post by DSMLVR with step by step instructions, but I don't know how to find the post out of his 500 posts. My husband is working on it, wanting me to read the Haynes manuel to him. First problem it says to pry off the light box in the door panal. He is trying, but says prying it off will break the door panal.
    He is mechnically inclined, we've changed dozens of motors in all sorts of cars/trucks over the years, on the oak tree in the front yard. We aren't dumb, but this window lift motor is a REAL PAIN. Everything we try to fix on newer vechicles, generally requires another trip to town, to buy another tool.

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    I used the search this forum function and typed in window regulator installation and got it, here ie the thread:

    http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sho...r+installation

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    These directions didn't really seem to apply to a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan. Similar directions were in the Haynes manuel, except they were located in different spots.
    To change the window lift motor, we did not have to take the retainer clips off the glass or tape the glass up. We did not have to remove any rails. There was a hunk of plastic that pulled off the moter, which wanted to twist & sidewind. We taped that with masking tape so it wouldn't come apart. 3 bolts held the motor in place. The nuts on the bolts were rubber lock tights, made to stay on permanently. The nuts stripped when taken off. We broke one small place round piece of junk that fits in a door hole.
    The dealership charged $12.60 for the 3 brass/rubberized lock nuts & $5 for the retainer-doo piece of junk plastic. The window lift motor was $66.97 from Advance Auto with a limited life time warrenty, what ever that means. No place else in town had these specialized nuts. That's about a total of $85 to make the window go up & down again.

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    You would have been better off replacing the entire regular. The whole thing is only around $100.
    I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. I now have over 400 repair articles, TSBs, and wiring diagrams on my blog: http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com//

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    The Story on the Window Problem:
    The typical problem is the motor. If you didn't have this problem with a 2002, like mine, you would probably be the exception. Other years can have this problem as well. The window tends to jam in the window up position, and especially so, in my case, during humid weather.

    Temporary Fixes:
    There are various ways to get the motor to operate temporarily:
    - jar it electrically / physically such as by closing the door and pressing the window button at the same time.
    - slack off the two very small motor nuts a bit and you will hear it release.
    - apply current directly to the motor (hot wire), bypassing the switch protection.
    - got my Driver's side motor to last a few more months by lubricating etc, including the window channels, but eventually it had to be replaced.

    The Remedy:
    The real cure is to replace the motor or the whole regulator system. In my case, there was no choice but to replace the regulator as the motor was not available separately. Apparently it is now.
    I replaced the regulators (motor included) on both sides (2005 and 2006) and all has worked well since. The switches have never been replaced.

    Motors:
    I believe the replacement motors are made by a different Manufacturer (hopefully). At least the new regulators, with motor, are a somewhat different design.

    Previous Threads
    There are previous Threads on here as to how to replace the regulator. They are well detailed. One follows:
    http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sho...r+installation
    This site may also be of some help in removing the door panel:
    http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 112,920 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 311,200 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 251,430 kms

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    The problem with both of our windows was not the motors, but the cables needed some lubrication on the vertical rails. They would bind and the motor could not get them to move by itself.

    Greasing the cables was the true fix in the end after replacing one motor and almost replacing that one after it couldn't operate the window after one month.

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    Thanks. Obviously some situations are different.

    My Experience:
    Not understanding the problem initially, I lubricated the cables (Driver's side) along with everything else I could spray lubricant on. This helped for awhile but the motor stuck a couple of times after that. Each time I would take the panel off (was getting good at that by this time) and loosen the two small nuts on the motor to release it from its jammed position (could hear it release), and lubricate everything again. I nursed it along this way for a few Months but eventually gave way to replacing the regulator (includes cables and motor) and, knock on wood, no problems with that side since Summer 2005.

    Recommendation:
    Probably best to replace the regulator assembly so everything is new. Seems the price for the regulator assembly has dropped somewhat, saw some on line the other day for less than $90.00 (includes the motor). Also saw some regulators without the motor - didn't know such a thing existed. Take a look:
    http://www2.partstrain.com/store/ind...94967263+11921
    Since the motor is weak, anything to help it out might work. My sense is that if the motor doesn't work right away, the switch triggers an overload protection, cutting off the power. During my experimentation I also hot wired the motor - and it worked. Conclusion is that if the power is left on the motor long enough, it will likely work. Boderline stuff for sure.

    Pictures of Regulator Installation:
    Gotta love this site:
    http://www.a1electric.com/caravan.htm
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 112,920 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 311,200 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 251,430 kms

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    Same vehicle - Right Door - Doorman unit w/regulator from Advance Auto Online $75 w/free shipping.
    Biggest issue is door panel removal; one just has to remove all three screws, pry it at the bottom with a putty knife, work your fingers into the gap and PULL HARDER than you would think is normal at the bottom of the panel. The rest is easy. Don't squish the rubber motor mount nuts too much and they can be re-used.
    The HAYNES manual truely sucks - not worth reading as it covers too many years - I couldn't have done it without reading up on it first on this great forum.

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    minivan window regulator motor replacement

    BUY THE REGULATOR WITH THE MOTOR !!!!

    I saved thirty bucks and just bought the motor and wasted a whole day.

    In either case, the regulator will most probably come out anyway, unless you have done this a half dozen times before. If the spool does not go in easily or if your hand slips, it won't work. And to reuse the rubber attachment fasteners, you will need a 6mmx1.00 tap and die. Refitting an exploding spool will require that you take the regulator out and set it on a floor to figure out which joint is easiest to refeed the cable.

    One alternative: When you know the motor is weak or faulty and the brushes look worn, buy a new motor the remove the new brushes to replace the old brushes and use the new armature and if it looks like a fit try it and throw the rest away.

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    I've just replaced the friver's side door window motor in my wife's 2001 dodge caravan, in the process, the spool came unwound. Does anyone know where i can find the routing schemaitcs for the window cabels, and a description of how to get the cables spooled up?

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