2003 Grand Caravan - No Heat



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Thread: 2003 Grand Caravan - No Heat

  1. #1
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    2003 Grand Caravan - No Heat

    My van now has no heat and I've searched and read through numerous threads but cannot quite pinpoint a heater problem the same as what I am experiencing.

    The problem first reared its head when the fan was intermittently blowing hot or cold air, and it appeared the problem was brought on when moving the temperature control dial. When it blew hot, it was REAL hot (maybe even hotter than normal). Now, all I get is cold air at one temp regardless of the dial position. The fan otherwise seems to work normally at all speeds and air is being pushed out the vents.

    The engine temperature gauge is normal and so is the coolant level in the radiator and in the overlflow reservoir. The water pump is factory original and I have no reason think it is not operating normally. I checked the heater hoses at the firewall and both are hot and at the same temperature (to the touch) as the upper radiator hose. Is it fair to assume this means the heater core is not blocked or restricted?

    The problem first appeared several weeks ago and I have since swapped out the thermostat and changed coolant (Zerez G-05). This didn't solve anything although it was due for a change, anyway.

    Could it be a blend door issue? I hear this is a common problem. Most blend door issues reported on this forum are for 3rd gen vans, mine being a 4th-gen. I don't know where to look to see how the blend door is actuated or how to diagnose a problem with the door. If there's an electrical connection for a motor or a vacuum line under the hood then I could use some advice on what to look for.

    Finally, has anyone ever had a problem with the AC/Heater Control module? This seems to be part of the equation that controls the mix of hot and cold.
    Dave
    • 2003 DGC SE 3.3L - 248K miles and still strong
    • 2003 Nissan Frontier 2.4L - 186K miles
    • 2005 Ford Focus - 158K miles
    • 2008 Honda Civic - 90K miles

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  3. #2
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    I forgot to add that this van is an SE model with all Heat/AC functions up front only. It is not a dual-zone HVAC system so there is nothing in the rear.
    Dave
    • 2003 DGC SE 3.3L - 248K miles and still strong
    • 2003 Nissan Frontier 2.4L - 186K miles
    • 2005 Ford Focus - 158K miles
    • 2008 Honda Civic - 90K miles

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    this was my problem

    i had problems with heat as well...there are two metal pipes under the van that get corroded and leak coolent. I had heat one moment then none the next. Check those pipes i had to replace mine with rubber hoses...my mechanic told me this is a common problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kjdoug View Post
    i had problems with heat as well...there are two metal pipes under the van that get corroded and leak coolent. I had heat one moment then none the next. Check those pipes i had to replace mine with rubber hoses...my mechanic told me this is a common problem.
    Thanks, but since my vehicle model doesn't have a rear heater core I doubt I have coolant lines extending towards the rear. Plus, my coolant level is normal.

    However, I DID have a low coolant problem a few months ago. I couldn't find any leaks then so I attributed the coolant loss to be something that was extremely gradual over time. What was happening then (or so I presume) was I would turn on the heat and coolant was routed through the heater core leaving less for actual engine cooling. My symptom was the engine temperature gauge would rise a few ticks when the heater was turned on, but not enough to overheat. I thought the coolant loss could be from a faulty radiator cap causing coolant evaporation. I topped off the radiator and reservoir to proper levels and swapped out the cap and the level has been fine ever since and so has my heater until just recently.

    What I'd really like to find out is how my HVAC blend door is operated. First I have to FIND the darn thing and then figure where the wiring is. According to my Haynes manual, the blend door is moved by an electric motor controlled by the AC/Heat Control module. There's no indication in the manual that it is vacuum controlled.
    Dave
    • 2003 DGC SE 3.3L - 248K miles and still strong
    • 2003 Nissan Frontier 2.4L - 186K miles
    • 2005 Ford Focus - 158K miles
    • 2008 Honda Civic - 90K miles

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    I had random heat, suspected the blend doors and found the radiator was low even with adequate fluid in the resevoir.

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    Solotuion?

    Dave did you ever find the cause to the problem?

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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by friscovoyager View Post
    I had random heat, suspected the blend doors and found the radiator was low even with adequate fluid in the resevoir.
    Sounds like a couple different possibilities.
    1) Check your temp sensor in the grill, the connector may be wet, or corroded, or disconnected. It could also be loose from it's mount bracket.
    2) You may have a bubble in the heater core, since you mentioned you had low coolant, that usually causes a bubble to end up in the core, and you don't get heat from bubbles.

    Find your leak, first. Could be rad cap, or a hose clamp or bad hose, or water pump leaking. Do you have any dripping on the floor ?
    1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE 3.3L LWB-- 222,222 miles and counting ......
    Still Going Strong


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    Checking coolant level: Looking at the reservoir is not good enough. Only true check is by observing the level in the radiator. There can be big differences in information from each method of inspection.

    Air temperature sensor: Any chance your air conditioning is giving you the cold air? The temperature sensor, in front of and near the middle of the radiator can cause problems if it becomes dismounted and senses very hot temperatures from the radiator. It tells the air conditioning to override the heat setting. That applies to automatic temperature control, don't know about manual temperature control.
    2007 GC SXT - Magnesium - S&G - 3.8L - 112,920 kms
    2002 GC Sport - Stone White - 3.3L - 311,200 kms
    2003 Jeep TJ Sport - 4.0L - 251,430 kms

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    Quote Originally Posted by duncinkw View Post
    Dave did you ever find the cause to the problem?
    Well, maybe.

    I am almost certain the AC/Heat blend blend door is not working properly. The motor works fine, somehow the door seems to be stuck in the Cold A/C position and all heat is blocked off. It could be a broken door or the linkage between motor and door. I haven't fixed it because it involves dismantling and removing most of the dash to get at the AC/Heater box. BUT, I would love to learn it is something more easily fixed so I'll check the air temperature sensor in the grille as suggested in this thread. Maybe I'll get lucky!

    Check out this thread regarding the same topic:

    http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sho...ighlight=blend
    Dave
    • 2003 DGC SE 3.3L - 248K miles and still strong
    • 2003 Nissan Frontier 2.4L - 186K miles
    • 2005 Ford Focus - 158K miles
    • 2008 Honda Civic - 90K miles

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    This problem has been fixed. The blend door in the heat/AC box is moved by the blend door actuator motor and the blend door's shaft linkage was broken off and swallowed by the heater/AC box. It can be repaired but it involves cutting open the heat/AC box to retrieve the door and broken shaft piece.

    See the below thread for details.

    http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php?t=11969
    Dave
    • 2003 DGC SE 3.3L - 248K miles and still strong
    • 2003 Nissan Frontier 2.4L - 186K miles
    • 2005 Ford Focus - 158K miles
    • 2008 Honda Civic - 90K miles

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