The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

2004 Caravan Instrument Panel Bulb

65K views 41 replies 30 participants last post by  Kamzu 
#1 ·
The bulb that lights the fuel gauge has burned out and the dealer has quoted $300 to replace it. Is it possible to replace it myself?
 
#2 ·
Yes, this is something you can do yourself, and very easily. simply remove the cluster and change out the bulbs, (do them all as they tend to all go at once anyway). Now for the downside. The Bulbs are PC74, meaning that they have a special base on them so they will screw in. You can not get them at the auto parts store, you have to get them at the dealer, I believe for around $5 each. Another option, which is what I did, is to go to www.superbrightleds.com and order from them. If you get the white LEDS, you will have true blue gauges, not the green. (if you like the green, go with a yellow or green LED) If you need more specific information let me know. Hope this helps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: FamilyGuy76
#17 ·
Another option, which is what I did, is to go to www.superbrightleds.com and order from them. If you get the white LEDS, you will have true blue gauges, not the green.
Blue dash lights are cool, but is there any conflict with the BCM using LEDs over incandescent bulbs? The dimmer will it run normally?
 
#3 ·
I literally changed my gauge bulbs just 15 minutes ago. Here are the steps:

1. Remove the two screws on the inside top of the dash bezel.
2. Remove the lower portion of the dash bezel by gently prying it up. This is the black piece over the steering column.
3. Underneath the lower portion of the dash bezel, there are two more screws that hold the main piece of the dash bezel. Remove these.
4. You can now remove the dash bezel. It is helpful to shift the gear selector lever out of park to give you more wiggle room.
5. Remove the four screws the hold the gauge cluster in place.
6. Tilt the gauge cluster forward. Remove the wire clamp so that you can remove the cluster. This took some wiggling back and forth.
7. On the back of the cluster, you can remove the bulbs by gently twisting them with pliers.
8. Replace the bulbs with new. The bulbs are PC74 and you can order them from rockauto.com. I replaced all eight.
9. Reassemble doing the reverse of above.

I cannot believe you were quoted $300. It's $10 worth of parts and 20 minutes of time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tooltime
#8 ·
This is a great post, and I used it today with success. One thing I did not do was to disconnect the wire harness. I could not get it off, and found that I could replace all of the 8 bulbs with the harness still intact. This required a little finesse to reach the bulbs, but was totally possible. Thanks for your original guidelines. Saved me a bundle. Best regards,
 
#4 ·
You can also get the bulbs at most auto parts stores, without the gray plastic housing that twists in. They're kind of a pain to get out, but it's not too hard to do. Each pair should set you back less than $3, so less than $12 for all 8...and do replace all 8. If you don't, one of the other bulbs won't work when you put the cluster back in.
 
#7 ·
Replace PC74 with #74 bulb

To replace the PC74 simply break the old bulb out of the grey housing and gouge out the glass stub with a jewelers screwdriver. Be careful to move any wire stubs to each side and verify that the socket without a bulb does not have a short (No continuity).
Then simply insert an off the shelf #74 bulb. Check for continuity between the two contact tabs or apply 12v to them to :biggrin: verify operation.
I have done this several times on three different caravan/T&C's with no problems.
 
#19 ·
To replace the PC74 simply break the old bulb out of the grey housing and gouge out the glass stub with a jewelers screwdriver. Be careful to move any wire stubs to each side and verify that the socket without a bulb does not have a short (No continuity).
Then simply insert an off the shelf #74 bulb. Check for continuity between the two contact tabs or apply 12v to them to :biggrin: verify operation.
I have done this several times on three different caravan/T&C's with no problems.
I tried to pull a bad bulb out with type 7 stainless tweezers for curiosity and broke the bottom glass part into tiny pieces. If I were not wearing gloves, the glass pieces could go into my skin, which would require a self operation to take the pieces out under a stereo scope.

The glass bulb is attached to the plastic part through two wires. Glass breaks when the wires are broken.

I do not recommend others to do this unless they are as curios as I am. The bulb set is too cheap to worth replacing only glass bulb.
 
#9 ·
This is a good thread. There needs to be a 4th GEN FAQ on common issues and fixes.

Some questions for the bulb gurus here. On my van it looks like the gauge faces around the 3 o'clock position are dim. Are there bulbs in this area, or is it purposely dimmer to discourage triple digit driving at redline? Does anyone know on a manual 3-zone temp control what bulbs are behind the temp sliders? Also behind the rear defrost button? Last one for now, is the hazard button supposed to be illuminated? Seems like it should be.

Thanks in advance,
TL
 
#10 ·
It sounds like you have two bulbs out. The speedometer and the tachometer are each illuminated by three bulbs.

My recommendation would be to remove all eight bulbs, so you won't have to do it again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 06DGC
#31 ·
My recommendation would be to remove all eight bulbs, so you won't have to do it again.
Anyone doing this job should definitely take this advice. :thumb: A few weeks after replacing 2 - 3 of these bulbs, the others started dropping out. The second time I just replaced all of them; not being sure which ones I had originally replaced. I had purchased about 12 bulbs. It really is an easy job and before I tackled it I too was quoted an outrageous price by the dealer.
 
#16 ·
Hazard button should be illuminated as long as the engine's running? Mine only goes intermittent when I put the hazard lights on....
 
#12 ·
my temp gauge lite just went out (03 GC sport) and based on what i have read it is so much more easier then when i replaced them on the bike
so my question is. If i went with leds which ones should i get from superbightsleds.com
im thinking the T1.5?
 
#14 ·
It looks like the right one to replace the [Wagner-type] PC74. I just went with the std bulbs, which were about $0.75 apiece. If you are looking at LED's, you will likely replace all of them [8] at the same time, which is recommended no matter which bulb you use. The work is in getting to them...replacing is fairly easy once you have them accessible. Pliers are recommended with a counterclockwise twist. I could remove some of them by hand, some were a bit tougher to get out.
 
#18 ·
After reading this thread, I purchased some blue LEDs off eBay to replace the bulbs (2 out) in my wife's 2005 Town & Country. $1.39/2 (and I bought 10 of them) + $3 shipping. (You can search for "T5 74 17 18 37 70 73 79 85 86 2721 LED SMD BULB LIGHTS" on ebay to find the ones I bought if you'd like.) Removed old bulbs from plastic holders, inserted these LEDs, and put them back in. MUCH easier than I thought! Getting the dash out was actually no problem at all - followed he instructions on the first page of this thread - put gear shift into drive to aid in clearance, and was easily able to tile entire cluster out and set up on dashboard above without disconnecting wire harness. And to answer your question, YES, THESE DIM! They seem to be made with with some kind of resistor that allows them to dim. Now I'm just hoping my wife will like the blue color - I think it looks cool.

I took some pics along the way too! :)

 
#20 ·
Small light for rear window wiper

Hello ...
I know this thread is old and I might have to start a new one.
Good stuff in this one.

The tiny little lights in and around the rear window wiper button switch on the dash is not working.
Part of my heater control lights are not working.
Are these tiny LED's, or regular bulbs? I guess I will have to tear apart to find out.
I hope someone has some thoughts on it.

(For another post ... the tiny lights in the window controls on the door, also door lock, are not working).
Thanks for any help ...
Bob
 
#22 ·
...(For another post ... the tiny lights in the window controls on the door, also door lock, are not working).
Thanks for any help ...
Bob
The problem is not that bulbs are not working. Assuming your vehicle is model year 03 or later, there are no bulbs there, other than for the driver's window.
 
#21 ·
great write up. I just replaced my 8 bulbs in my '05 Caravan. One of the bulbs for the speedometer went
so it was pretty hard to tell at night how fast we were going. The needle didn't even light up.
I got a 10-pack of the PC74 replacement bulbs in socket from Hire's Automotive off Ebay, just under
$14 shipped, great deal; and easy to replace. I didn't want to have to deal with smashing the
bulbs out of the plastic sockets and replacing the bulbs themselves.
Took me less than 20 minutes to replace.
 
#23 ·
I can't find the bulb with the base (other than dealer) tried ebay, Hires Auto, rock auto, one's that look close on ebay say we've heard might not work with Dodge, guess I'll go to dealer. How hard is it to replace bulb in old base if I buy the bulb's only...thanks eksharp8
 
#24 ·
The bulbs are at Rock Auto, I almost ordered them there until I found my local O'Rielly's could order them with no shipping charge. If you don't have an O'Rielly's nearby, select "part number search" at rockauto, use "pc74" as the part number and "Wagner" as the manufacturer and it will pop up. In the "How did you hear about us?" section use this code 72905126044474 for a 5% discount this month.
 
#25 ·
pc74 bulb

Thanks torque, found it ordered it. when I found this part number on ebay (same # and wagner), it said not compatible with 2005 Dodge GC, I pulled bulb from instrument panel sure looks same to me so I ordered, if it doesn't work I'll report back, thanks again.......eksharp8
 
#32 ·
+1 on the wholesale changeout! Just like headlights, if one goes the other is probably not far behind. On these bulbs, they're cheap and easy to replace once the cluster is out. Do 'em all. One of the few places I agree with the shotgun technique.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 06DGC
#33 ·
I have a 2007 GC SXT with the 3.8L 6. I have all Green illumination all around.
All of the bulbs are dim with the dimmer switch all the way up. It is hard to see in daylight and not the greatest at night.
I have done LED swaps for the reverse lights and every interior bulb except for the vanity bulbs.

Is the green color in the gauge cluster or in the bulbs? I can't quite tell? I don't want to spend more to get the green color when I can get white for less and be a better product.

Thanks in advance!
 
#34 ·
#35 ·
I wish the center console & climate control lamps were so easy,(they are soldered in) but I bought a complete new OEM center console with climate control, all the switches above including heated seats, rear wiper, 4 way and the sensor for the climate control off EBay for $99 dollars. Even has the correct wood trim. The only lamps out now are the RBU radio & in the headlamp switch but I don`t think the headlamp switch lights up like my 01.
I replaced my power window switch with the 01 and it now lights up. Does anyone know if the memory seat switch is supposed to light up...
 

Attachments

#36 ·
re: bulb behind the 3-zone temp control knobs, slider. I fixed mine recently, and just noticed that your old post wasn't answered; I found info from another thread. I got an individual #8640 bulb, type: T 1-1/4, 14v, 0.08A (80mA). I don't know what the 1-1/4 means, but just a 1 without the extra 1/4 is too small, as the guy at Radio Shack showed me. MCM part number 25-2700, order quantity=10, so I have 9 left. NOT a dealer item, not carried at Advance Auto parts; I found it online.
I removed the components until I could get to the bulbs with base exposed, then I unscrewed the flat grey base (1/4-turn, lefty-loosy). I un-wound the 2 wires from the lamp base & removed the old bulb. I removed the thin rubber green cover from the bulb as best as I could without kinking it & rolled it back onto the new bulb- it didn't work out perfectly along the sides of the bulb but at least I had 100% of the top round portion of the bulb covered- it looked just fine once operational. I placed & wound the two leads from the new bulb onto the existing base, and one of the leads was a bit too long so I snipped it off. I screwed the base w/ bulb back into the board & reassembled the somewhat free-floating clear plexiglass light tubes correctly, and it looked good as existing when I finished.
Thanks to others on these posts, I did it!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top