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Timing Belt (Chain?) Cover Leak?

20K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  stgeorgevi 
#1 ·
Saw a puddle under the van today. I looked and looked, and it seems to be coming from well above the water pump, though I never did place an eyeball on the weep hole. At first I went into total panic mode thinking it was a head gasket, but looking again I think it is the timing belt cover... or is it a chain???

Do you think that I missed something? Seems too high to be a water pump weep hole, and the water pump is fairly dry except for the very back. Main drips are from the second bolt in on the oil pan.

If it is a timing cover, is it as bad as it looks??? Looked like crank pulley, idler pulley, motor mount :)eek:), some sensors, oil pan, water pump (at least the pulley), and I'm sure some things I can't think of right now. Any time estimates? Anything else I should do while I'm in there? On the plus side, the lower end will be resealed for oil (oil pan and front main seal).

AAARGH. Maybe I should just bring it to the dealer and find a 2007 with the lifetime warranty. The 2007s should be going cheap right?

Wow... that's probably too many questions for one thread. Hope you can pick something to reply to.
:beerchug:
 
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#2 ·
Water flows through the timing chain cover and is sealed with o-rings. I haven't had the nerve to change mine and it eventually stopped leaking to the outside but Shipo pointed out that it is likely mixing with engine oil which, depening on the rate and its ability to evaporate, could do damage to the bearings.

At least yours is leaking (in part anyway) to the outside so you are aware its happening...
 
#3 ·
First I would nail down for sure where it is coming from. You don't want to do that job and find out it was just coming from a hose or a water pump O-Ring. The timing chain cover is a major job. Mine was done by the dealer(I chickened out). It was $563. That includes a chain which I had him do, while they had the cover off. That was my choice. Still way cheaper than a new car. Mine was done in the first place, because I was getting an occasional oil spot and I am a "Zero Leakage" type. I get the impression you are talking AntiFreeze.
 
#4 ·
I just had that done to my 2000 T/C van that has 168,000 miles. VERY SAME syptoms. Cost about 450 at a local shop. Like an idiot, I didn't have the timing chain and gear replaced while he was in there.:nut: Spend the extra dough to have it done if you go that far, in my opinion.
 
#5 ·
Oh yeah... it's anti-freeze that's leaking.

$500 seems like a lot of cash - at least $400 of it is labor eh? Doesn't really seem like a hard job... just a LONG, tedious job. Looks like I'll have to schedule a weekend in the near future to get 'er done.

As for narrowing it down, I have to start taking things apart to get a better view of it all. If I'm taking it apart, I want some parts in hand. If I have to return them and get some others, so be it, but I might save a trip and some time if I guessed right.

Don't want to bother with the timing chain if it's not needed. I'll probably just inspect while I'm in there. Anyone know if the 3.8 is an interference motor???

Thanks for the replies so far!
 
#6 ·
Looking at caution notes in the valve timing procedure, it seems most likely is an interference motor. Also, the 3.8 has a higher compression ratio than the 3.3 which of the two motors seems to make it more likely.

Let us know how it goes. I'm finding oily/watery drips on the drivewak again...
 
#7 ·
Yahoo,
I am changing my timing chain and gears, and it is practcally same job as replacing gasket on the cover of course. I'll try to post how it goes. I have hit a snag getting the engine mount/engine mount plate loose. I'm starting a new thread regarding that. My e-mail is aggiejet@cox.net if you want to follow up some time if I forget to post on here.
 
#8 ·
Now that I can get the van started again (see URGENT HELP thread), I'm going to concentrate on the coolant leak for now. One step in the procedure for the timing cover (assuming that's it) says to use a new "paper spacer" on the cam position sensor when reinstalling. Where does one get this spacer? Should it come with the timing cover kit?

Also, FelPro or OEM for the timing cover and oil pan gasket kits?

Thanks for all the help folks!
 
#9 ·
Help! Had a squeak checked, found out timing box is leaking. Could be gasket, could need more. Quote was $700-$1500, depending on what was found. Sounds like a ton of money to me! Could the dealer really be cheaper? This garage has ALWAYS been the cheapest! What am I missing?

_______________________
2000 T&C Limited, 95k mi
2004 Chev. Suburban, 57k mi
 
#10 ·
What's leaking? How much and/or how fast? All in all, you might be best off just ignoring it and keep your fluids topped off. The fact is that a "G" note will buy lots of oil and coolant.
 
#11 ·
Actually, dunno know what's leaking. Garage said it came from the timing box and caused the squeak under the hood. Garage told me to watch the oil and coolant levels & if it gets worse, time for the work. No puddles on garage floor as of yet. Want to hold off if possible, but don't want to cause damage that will cost $$.
 
#12 ·
Hmmm, hard to tell what the issue is based upon what the garage told you. :p

It is possible that your front oil seal is producing a drop or two and said drop(s) are getting on the serpentine belt causing it to squeak, especially at idle, especially when in gear. That said, before I embarked upon major surgery, I'd be wanting some hard and fast evidence that that was in fact the problem, AND that it was causing other more severe problems (like throwing the belt with little or no provocation).

FWIW, cheap aftermarket belts WILL squeak even if no oil or coolant is on them. As a test, buy the top of the line Mopar, Gates, or Napa belt and put it on (or have it put on) and see if that doesn't stop the noise.

Oh, and keep us posted. ;)
 
#13 ·
Water tube behind water pump

Ive got a 1997 with 3.3L. The coolant hose connection tube behind the water pump broke off due to rust. Do I have to replace the whole timing chain cover or can this tube be replaced or retrofitted? The tube seems to be part of the same casting as the large engine cover. Help! At 180,000 miles now I dont think I want to blow $600 on this job, looking for a low cost solution.
 
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