Interesting write-up and great advice. One question, the dialog seems to suggest that all vans (or at least Gen 3 vans) need to have this fix done. True? I ask because our June 1998 built Gen 3 is showing no signs what-so-ever of having any rust on the strut towers. Do you reckon that I'll need to perform this TSB anyway?
Interesting write-up and great advice. One question, the dialog seems to suggest that all vans (or at least Gen 3 vans) need to have this fix done. True? I ask because our June 1998 built Gen 3 is showing no signs what-so-ever of having any rust on the strut towers. Do you reckon that I'll need to perform this TSB anyway?
Not everyone depends on where you live and also if you ever wash your vehicle in the winter , just got rid of a 96 and I live in the heavy salt belt and i never had this problem and was just starting to see the faintest rust around the bolts but nothing close to perforation .
My daughter's 1999 is fine, no problems with the strut tower corrosion at all. If you don't have the problem, I think you just need to check - and DOUBLE CHECK the towers regularly to keep ahead of the problem.
According to the original TSB, the problem is due to a manufacturing defect, namely a void
between two stampings, which does not affect all vehicles.
The right thing to do would have been to identify suspect minivans by VIN and issue a recall.
Yeah, sorry, I wasn't clear about that. 2 per side leaves enough left over to coat the backside of the rivets inside the strut tower. After the adhesive cured, I also sprayed down the inside walls of the tower with undercoating.
My 2000 GV has the usual strut rust problem. I will buy that part. Does anyone know which idler pulley is a good replacement for the bowl shaped one that lets the serpentine belt slip off? --Bill
No question that there were good days and bad days on the assy line. My 96GC rusted big time on the right side, and no sign of rust on the left. $40.51 including taxes from my dealer for the part, some structural adhesive/sealant from ****, half a dozen 1/4" MS bolts and nuts (POP RIVITS?? not likely), and job done. Took me about 51/2 hours, I'm not as spry as I once was.
Thanks Rich, your info was spot on.
Mine 2000 is also rusted. Took it to a body shop yesterday and was quoted a price of $750 to do the work on one side. They said it is always the driver side strut tower that rusts out. Anyway, I have decided to dig out the rust, and spray it with a rust preventer. Than spray it with undercoating to try to slow it down. It appears that about a third of the top has rusted the top layer of the tower. Hopefully it will last for three more years before I replace the van.
Mine 2000 is also rusted. Took it to a body shop yesterday and was quoted a price of $750 to do the work on one side. They said it is always the driver side strut tower that rusts out. Anyway, I have decided to dig out the rust, and spray it with a rust preventer. Than spray it with undercoating to try to slow it down. It appears that about a third of the top has rusted the top layer of the tower. Hopefully it will last for three more years before I replace the van.
You wrote that you are HOPEFULL that it will last for three more years.
Check it out carefully because the strut tower hold the whole weight of that side of the vehicle and under certain vehicle manuvers, it can be under sever stress because of body/chassis twisting. If that strut tower fails, the driver of the van can lose control of the vehicle.
IF the tower is not in bad shape, you should be ok. However if it is marginal, it might be best to have it fixed.
Again, if the rust is surface and not real bad, you can wait. In that case, I would spray/brush on some EXTEND made by Permatex.