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Window won't go down

83K views 107 replies 58 participants last post by  brenthen 
#1 ·
The driver's side window of the 2002 Grand Caravan Sport won't go down. Passenger works, rear wings work.

Awhile back it was intermitten. Somedays it would go down and others it wouldn't. Mostly through the winter and I thought it was ice build up. Well it is 85 degrees now and it doesn't go down at all.

Could it be the switch or a problem with the window track?

Are any special tools required to get the door panel off?

Any help would be appreciated.

Pete
 
#2 ·
psal2, I will be following your footsteps at sometime in the future, as the drivers window on my 01 Grand Caravan Sport, will not close on first attempt. (Occurs less than 1 in 40).

Since your challenge is now a hard fault, it may be easier to trouble shoot.

I had switch problems (replaced it on my old GM however I had used the window a lot over the years)

Mechanical - binding problem would place high current demand and the window motors internal self resetting fuse would open (until it cooled) without the engine on you would likely see a dimming of interior lights during this high current draw, depending on the age of your battery you may see dimming while operating the good passengers window too.

To determine if it is the switch (and associated circuitry) you might consider removing the 18 pin connector at the window switch and test out the motor by connecting a ground and a fused 12 volt source to the corresponding wires. Connect them one way for up and the opposite way for down. Per the Shop Manual you will need a trim stick (a 1" putty know often works for the DIYer) start at the bottom of the switch and bezel assy and pry up to remove from the door trim panel. If you choose to go ahead with this I will provide the 2 pin numbers and colors (chances are your 02 MAY have the same sw assy pin out and colors.)

cheers.
 
#3 ·
To determine if it is the switch (and associated circuitry) you might consider removing the 18 pin connector at the window switch and test out the motor by connecting a ground and a fused 12 volt source to the corresponding wires. Connect them one way for up and the opposite way for down. Per the Shop Manual you will need a trim stick (a 1" putty know often works for the DIYer) start at the bottom of the switch and bezel assy and pry up to remove from the door trim panel. If you choose to go ahead with this I will provide the 2 pin numbers and colors (chances are your 02 MAY have the same sw assy pin out and colors.)

cheers.

I am not that electrically/mechanically inclined and not really sure what I could use to do this. Can you give me an example of a fused 12 volt source? The only thing I can think of is the radio (and I don't want to pull that). Can I use jumpers from the passenger door?

Now give me a piece of wood and I can make something but electrical stuff boggles my mind.
 
#4 · (Edited)
well, if you can get your hands on a cigarette adapter with 6 foot length wires, strip the ends bare 3/8" that would do. If you pick one up at the local auto store ask for one that is not fused (if it is make certain it is at least 10 amps, if less then buy a 10 or even a 20 amp fuse for it) then you can rely on the adapters fuse in the fuse panel.

You are looking for pins 6 & 8 on the 14 pin connector (I incorrectly stated 18 pin in my earlier post), per the manual for my 2001, 6 is Orange with a Light Green tracer (a thin line of light green) and Orange with white tracer respectively. After removing the wire harness from the switch, place the wire harness in your hand with the tab (the tab holds the connector in place you needed to push on it to remove the wire harness connector from the switch assembly) at the bottom and wires going away from you. In this orientation they are numbered 1 thru 7 from left to right on the bottom and 8 thru 14 from left to right on the top. 10 and 12 should have no wires. If all the above does not match, then your wire coloring and harness may differ from mine.....in which case a dealer may be a better option.
 
#5 ·
I had the same problem on our's, replaced the motor/gearbox, it worked for a bit, then stopped again. You could hear the relay coming in/out, but no movement. I took it apart again, the motor still worked fine.

This time around though, I greased the cables on the back side of the vertical metal guides, and it's worked flawlessly for 2 months or so now.

Taking the panel off isn't that hard if you've done it before, but for a first-time, get a Haynes/Chilton/factory manual to get a better idea.
 
#7 ·
Still haven't gotten to this but my wife was at a local mechanics place the other day and he said it was the motor. Said he is replacing Dodge window motors all the time.

Sounds like they have a problem. Any idea what the motor to the window will cost?

Pete
 
#8 ·
Partly why they replace so many is because there are so many. There are at least twice as many Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth minivans on the road than any other manufacturer. Power window motors are subject to failure, no matter who the vehicle manufacturer is. More problems with Chrysler products is mostly because there are more of them on the road.
 
#9 ·
Cheap fix ...

Try this, it worked for me! (2x in 2 years)

Open Door,
Place finger on the switch for the down position,
With your other hand, Slam door closed real hard ... while finger is still on the button, watch window resume operation.
Repeat if necessary.
Enjoy!
 
#10 ·
Try this, it worked for me! (2x in 2 years)

Open Door,
Place finger on the switch for the down position,
With your other hand, Slam door closed real hard ... while finger is still on the button, watch window resume operation.
Repeat if necessary.
Enjoy!
:scratchin :scratchin Okay...I get it...first thought was I was on the outside and my finger :ThumbsUp: was on the inside...ouch... :)
 
#74 ·
My passernger-side window has only worked once in the last year. Didn't need it much. I went out about 10 minutes ago and did this procedure (if you can call it that)........didn't work. Tried it again and damned if that window didn't begin working perfectly.

Alex is a genius !!!!

Try this, it worked for me! (2x in 2 years)

Open Door,
Place finger on the switch for the down position,
With your other hand, Slam door closed real hard ... while finger is still on the button, watch window resume operation.
Repeat if necessary.
Enjoy!
 
#13 ·
I have the exact same problem with my 02 GC sport. The motor costs around $65 in ebay. But that is for 01 and I am not sure if it will suit 02 and if it will solve the problem. The mechanic that I checked told the motor is the problem and gave an estimation for $320 for parts and labor. I said no thanks. I have never done anything on my own in cars but may be I would do if I know that its the motor that needs replacement. Let me do more googling and see if anybody had done this before.
 
#15 ·
Driver Side Door Malfunction

I had the same problem with my driver side window--off and on function. I got a price at my Dodge Service Department to replace the entire motor assembly. They wanted over $500. I went to my local auto glass guy. He replaced the motor assembly with an OEM from a different Dodge dealer. The total cost, parts and labor, ran me $214.43. This was back in January and it's still working A-ok.
 
#16 ·
I have been trying over the weekend to buy a l/s replacement motor for my 98, but the stores only have the motor and regulator package. The motor is so easy to get at I don't get why they don't stock the motor alone. The price difference is only $7.00 and it would be easier on the knuckles.
 
#19 ·
Perhaps you had a loose connection, I took mine apart and after a few hours if was hanging up again when it was lowered 2 inches or all the way down.
I bought a OEM motor from a dealer for $137.55+ tax. This was the easiest power window motor I have ever replaced as long as you keep the glass taped up until your replace the regulator cable spool.
 
#22 ·
funny thing happened with my 02 window twice. It would not open, and the same thing happened when I originally purchased the van. Well when I went to get the first oil change, I had mentioned the window not opening to my mechanic, he went over to my door, pushed on the upper right hand corner of the window (looking at the door from the outside towards the inside) where it meets the rubber seal of the door. I heard a popping sound, and it worked again. He said that around or area of high heat and humidity, this was a common problems with our vans. The windows stay up because of the a/c, and the hot sun bakes the rubber, so the rubber becomes a bit sticky and glues itself to the window. He said what sometimes works too is if you take a plastic knife and run it around the rubber seals wherever they touch the windows. I did all of this yesterday, and it worked.
 
#23 ·
The mechanic came and... I was right :) Actually it was the collector which was very dirty and greasy not allowing the brushes to get a good electrical contact. He cleaned them with a very fine sandpaper until they regain their's copper color and now everything is working great. He said it's a known problem with these motors... even it was a recall as they put too much oil which went down on the collector preventing electrical contact.

All the work, for both doors took less than an hour :biggrin: if you know what are you doing :rolleyes: The big part of the job is to get to the motor than you open 2 screws and take down the rotor, clean the collector and put it back!

As I knew, he advised never to replace motors unless they are burned which occurs very rarely. 90% of the situations a good cleaning is enough.
And even a burned motor is also not worse a new one but a rebuild one... but of course for the 'smart' mechanic is easier to replace it and to rip you off :eek:

Final advice: roll the windows from time to time (especially the passenger side which is less used) to prevent oxidation of the collectors!
 
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#28 ·
I also had the drivers side window fail to open or close on every try. I had my auto glass guy look at it. He replaced the motor/gear assembly with OEM at a price half that of my dealer. It's been working well for several months. I have a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport.
 
#29 ·
He replaced the motor/gear assembly with OEM at a price half that of my dealer.
Half price is still more than the price of 1 hour job with no parts needed... :jpshakehe
 
#30 ·
Drivers power window motor

The problem is usually in the regulator part of the motor mechanism, but it comes a one unit. The motor overheats and so the regulator shuts it down as a safety mechanism. My window had the same problem. I bought a new motor (complete with tracks) on ebay motors for about 50 or 60 dollars and installed it myself. It took a couple of hours but it was not a big deal except for getting the star wrench to remove a bolt.
 
#31 ·
greasing the cable guides

Took apart the motor and cleaned the commutators and the motor now works. The issue I have now is that it's louder and seems to vibrate more than the passenger window motor. It also seems slower when rolling up the window. Can someone include pics of where to grease the cables...this may be my second problem?

Thanks
 
#32 ·
I was able to fix my window motor. Cost 0. Time about 30 minutes - less than what it would take to replace the whole window regulator.
After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget to reconnect the electrical connections and door handle. Now you are done. Oh, by the way, the phillips screws are on tight - I used a vise-grip to loosen them.
 
#35 ·
thanks for the tips, did it all, motor was black inside, cleaned it all up, power to the switches checked out on both doors, but it won't go up, goes down a little, so looks like i have to replace everything anyway. Good tips on taking the motor off, and I would like to smack the guy who thought the rubber on the back of those screws was "user friendly!"
 
#33 ·
mine wont go up...

:ask_wsign He all.
new to the forum and glad i found you.
My windows (ChryslerVoyager2001) wont go uo if there has been a temp change outside, i usually give a push/assist the window and it goes up slowly.
Track maybe, sometimes if we hit the lock switch a few times then the window up a they will go. ?
d-----
 
#34 ·
:ask_wsign He all.
new to the forum and glad i found you.
My windows (ChryslerVoyager2001) wont go uo if there has been a temp change outside, i usually give a push/assist the window and it goes up slowly.
Track maybe, sometimes if we hit the lock switch a few times then the window up a they will go. ?
d-----


O you mean all your windows are affected by a temperature change?
 
#40 ·
Weak motors for the power windows. This problem is common. You can back off the nuts on the motor a bit and it will free up (jammed). Might get some more months out of it this way. Best thing to do is replace the assembly (call a regulator). A recent "thread" describes the process in detail.
 
#42 ·
I thinks its easier to replace just the motor. Just make sure the window is all the way closed. Then tape it up to prevent it from sliding down when you remove the motor. This will prevent the regulator cable from unwinding. You should be able to slde the unwound cable into the new motor easily. If some of the plastic door panel clips break you will have to get them from a dealer.
These photos are from my 98 g/cv

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r100/mrbizness1/dodgedoor004.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r100/mrbizness1/dodgedoor003.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r100/mrbizness1/dodgedoor001.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r100/mrbizness1/dodgedoor008.jpg
 
#41 ·
Take a look at the thread "Door panel removal, power window repair".
 
#43 ·
I have replaced the regulator on both sides. The new regulators have different motors and a simpler fastening system (3 inserts rather than rubber nuts). Saw somewhere that Chrysler changed suppliers because of poor performing motors.
 
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