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question about fixing evaporator coil

8K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  chad_webb 
#1 ·
Hi everyone. First post. I just shelled out $1400 for new ac compressor, serpentine belt, and water pump for my 1999 Town & Country LXI that has 91,000 miles and of course theres a leak in the evaporator that requires ripping out the dash for another $1200. My question is, if I don't get this fixed will my new ac compressor fry even if I don't use the ac or defrost modes? I've had the freon topped off 3 times now and cold air seems to go away in about a month. Adding to my dilemma is the fact that the power window driver side swith has gone belly up, so now I have no ac AND I can't lower the driver window. I think this is my last American car.
 
#2 ·
If you dont fix the evap, (or any leak) the freon will leak out. (as you know with the refilling that you are doing)
There is oil in the freon that keeps the compressor lubricated.
At some point, if all the freon leaks out, you will lose the oil as well.. and if you keep running the compressor it will grenade for sure..
in addtion, having a leak allows moisture to enter the system as well.
This will ultimately fill up all the dessicant in your dryer. This will cause the system to corrode on the inside.. blah blah blah.. grenade the compressor again..
The short answer is... if you want AC.. fix the evap.. and any other leaks..
lots of folks here, myself included have done this job.. it sucks for sure.. but you can save 1000 bucks for yourself..

The evap on this generation van is definately something Chrysler should be ashamed of.. bad bad bad.. did I mention bad?... design.. buuutttt...

As far as running over to the furrrrrriners.. they break too... let's all puuhhleeeeeazzze not wear this thread out with that old song again...

I have a 98 with 120k on it.. just put in a dvd player.. still better running than the new ones I drove..
take a breath.. have a beer :beerchug: fix it yourself.. :thumb:
 
#5 ·
[The short answer is... if you want AC.. fix the evap.. and any other leaks..
lots of folks here, myself included have done this job.. it sucks for sure.. but you can save 1000 bucks for yourself..


O.k., but what if I just chuck the a/c and not fix the evaporator. Will the compressor freeze and stop the serpintine belt?
 
#6 · (Edited)
The compressor has a low pressure cutout switch. If there is a leak in the system, then the refrigerant will leak out, and the system won't hold pressure. Accordingly, the compressor *shouldn't* cycle on because it should never have enough pressure in the line to do so. However, if it took a month to leak out, it may hold pressure well enough for the air in the system to reach 30+ psi due to temperature variations during the day, which will activate the compressor. Alternatively, once the system is evacuated, you could just remove the schrader valve from the low side port to ensure it never holds pressure. Not really a stellar idea, since you'll then get some crap in there later on.

If it were me, I'd replace the evaporator myself and save some bucks, but have working A/C. Just gotta decide how much your time is worth to you.

Why did the compressor go out in the first place? Did someone put one of those refrigerant cans containing the dreaded sealers in them into the system? They're called "death kits" for a multitude of good reasons.

Re the power window - that's a dead simple fix, but the part costs about $100 from the parts store. I've done both of them on mine. Very common. I know your frustrated right now, but the grass only looks greener until you get to the other side. There are *no* minivans that have universally good reviews. I did that search when I was looking for one. Plenty of problems with all of them. I chose the T&C because it had the lowest resale value (and I was buying used).
 
#7 ·
The compressor has a low pressure cutout switch. If there is a leak in the system, then the refrigerant will leak out, and the system won't hold pressure. Accordingly, the compressor *shouldn't* cycle on because it should never have enough pressure in the line to do so.

If it were me, I'd replace the evaporator myself and save some bucks, but have working A/C.

Why did the compressor go out in the first place? Did someone put one of those refrigerant cans containing the dreaded sealers in them into the system? They're called "death kits" for a very good reason.
To tell you the truth, I don't know why the compressor failed, probably because the evaportor started leaking which led to the freon leaking, which lead to the compressor crapping out.
 
#8 ·
the direct answer to your compressor seize question is,
unless the clutch freezes 'on', the compressor can blow up and the belt will still spin.
Without the engaged clutch the compressor itself is not operating.
once the switch cuts it out, or you unplug the connector, the pulley of the AC is just another idler pulley.
defrost will work just fine, with teh exception the air will not be chilled by the AC..
 
#10 ·
Well, something more to think on and this may or may not work for you.

For the last six years I've been nursing an A/C leak on my 96GC. Over those years a dozen sets of eyes have tried to find the leak without success. The consensous is its under the dash in the evaporator or the proportioning valve. It will work fine for 4/6 weeks then over a few days it will slowly go hot. This is what has worked for me. At the beginning of every summer I have the system vacuumed, removing any contaminants, all the oil, and any remaining refrigerant. Then they reservice it with fresh refrigerant, oil and a dye. In a month or so when I notice it producing warm air, I'll service it myself with a can of R-134 that you can buy just about anywhere for $8-$12. Sometimes I'll have to use two cans. A whole lot cheaper than a grand to fix it. Eventually I'll have to tear into it, if I still have the van. For now, this works for me.
 
#11 ·
RIP, I'm afraid that vacuuming the system does *NOT* remove the oil, or only very small trace amounts. The only way to remove the oil is to remove the components and flush them. If you're adding a full amount of oil every time you do this(what is it, 10-12 oz?), then you probably have *way* too much oil in your system by now. If just adding an ounce or perhaps two, you may be allright.

I disagree with your methods, but all I can say is I hope you're not putting in that death kit, all-in-one refrigerant stuff that contains sealers and what not.

Just out of curiosity, how much does it cost to have your system vacuumed down and refilled?
 
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