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power sliding door module location

50K views 12 replies 10 participants last post by  rhgeorge 
#1 ·
Would anyone know where the driver's power sliding door module is located?

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
POWER SLIDING DOOR
SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
Some vehicles are equipped with a power opening
and closing sliding door system (Fig. 1). Depending
on how the vehicle is ordered it may be equipped
with only a right side power door or right and left
side power doors. This power sliding door system is a
complex system consisting of many components.
Some of these components are the door motor, latch
assembly, sliding door control module, lower drive
unit, flex drive assembly, wire harness and track,
lower drive unit track and rack assembly, full open
switch, B-pillar switch, overhead console switch, key
fob switches (Fig. 2), pawl switch, ratchet switch and
child lockout and handle switches.
Each power side door has its own door control module,
located in the center of the door behind the door
trim panel.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC
CONTROL MODULES/DOOR CONTROL
MODULE - DESCRIPTION) The power side door
motor is located in the front portion of the door, on
the inner door panel sheet metal. The latch assembly
is located in the rear of the power side door, near the
body line. The lower drive unit is attached to the
lower door hinge. The flex drive assembly connects
the door motor to the lower drive unit. The wire harness
and track and the lower drive unit track are visible
with the door open in the lower door sill area.
The power side door full open switch is located under
the lower drive unit and is part of the hold open
latch assembly. The pawl, ratchet, handle and child
lockout switches are all located on the power side
door latch assembly. The B-pillar switch, as it will be
referred to, is an open and close command switch
located on the vehicles interior body side B-pillar
trim. The overhead console switch, is an open and
close command switch located in the vehicle’s overhead
console. More detailed information can be found
on these components later in this section.
Safety is of the utmost concern with the power
sliding door system. Software technology has enabled
the power sliding door control module to detect resistance
to door travel. This allows the power sliding
door to stop and reverse direction any time an
obstruction is felt or any of the command switches
are operated (while closing only). Battery voltage is
supplied to the power sliding door system through a
40 amp fuse, located in the Intelligent Power Module
(IPM) assembly (Fig. 3). The child lockout switch prevents
children from opening or actuating the power
sliding door system when desired. In the unlikely
event that the power sliding door system develops a
fault, the power sliding door can still be operated
manually from the interior or exterior door handle,
just like a standard manual sliding door.
The power sliding door control module communicates
on the J1850 PCI Data Bus Circuit. Therefore,
the power sliding door control module can generate
and store its own diagnostic trouble codes (DTC). A
diagnostic scan tool, such as the DRB IIIt is used to
read and diagnose these trouble codes. Refer to the
Body Diagnostic Manual for a complete list of diagnostic
routines.
NOTE: It may be possible to generate Sliding Door
Diagnostic Trouble Codes during normal power
sliding door operation. Refer to the Body Diagnostic
Manual for a complete list of diagnostic routines.
For additional information, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
POWER DOORS - OPERATION). For a complete
power sliding door system wiring schematic,
refer to Wiring Diagrams. For power sliding door system
operation instructions, refer to the vehicle owner
manual.
WARNING: BE CERTAIN TO READ ALL WARNINGS
AND CAUTIONS IN POWER SLIDING DOOR OPERATION
BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY SERVICE OF
POWER SLIDING DOOR SYSTEM OR COMPONENTS.
OPERATION
With the push of a power sliding door open/close
command switch (key fob, overhead console or B-pillar
mounted) a signal is sent out to the Body Control
Module (BCM). The BCM then sends a signal out on
the PCI Data Bus circuit (J1850) to the power sliding
door module. The power sliding door module then
signals the power sliding door latch to release the
door to the unlatched and movable position. The
motor then starts an open cycle.
During the door open cycle, if the power sliding
door module detects sufficient resistance to door
travel, such as an obstruction in the door’s path, the
power sliding door module will immediately stop door
movement and reverse door travel to the full open or
closed position. The ability for the power sliding door
module to detect resistance to door travel is accomplished
by hall effect sensors and the door motor
speed.
The power sliding door control module has the ability
to learn. Anytime a door is opened or closed using
the power sliding door system the module learns
from its cycle. If a replacement power sliding door
component is installed or a door adjustment is made,
the module must re-learn the effort required to open
or close the door. A learn cycle can be performed with
a Diagnostic Scan Tool, such as the DRB IIIt, or with
a complete cycle of the door, using any one of the
command switches. Refer to Standard Procedures in
this section for detailed instructions.
 
#4 ·
What do the motors cost?
 
#5 ·
Everyone with power doors that work intermittently try this:

Open the hood, then the fuse center. Remove the fuse labeled IOD. This is for the BCM. Wait a few minutes then plug it back in. I did this and while either side door just popped open at first, after manually opening then closing them with the door button, they seem to work every time (open and close). This was done on a van that sat over night without beibng started in cold weather (32) so I think it discounts the cold weather theory. I think it is something to do with the stupid BCM software or something. Let me know if this hel;ps anybody else!!!
 
#13 ·
Thank You Very Much!

Everyone with power doors that work intermittently try this:

Open the hood, then the fuse center. Remove the fuse labeled IOD. This is for the BCM. Wait a few minutes then plug it back in. I did this and while either side door just popped open at first, after manually opening then closing them with the door button, they seem to work every time (open and close). This was done on a van that sat over night without being started in cold weather (32) so I think it discounts the cold weather theory. I think it is something to do with the stupid BCM software or something. Let me know if this helps anybody else!!!
Your suggestion appears to have solved my problem. In my attempt to troubleshoot my problem, which was the door would just start to move/pop out, and it would stop. It was intermittent in cold temperatures (32 or below), and seemed to work reasonably well in warmer temps. I took apart the left side cable assembly in the flexible plastic track that moves with the door 3 times looking for a broken wire. The first time, I did find that the ground wire was damaged/charred in several locations, but not completely broken, so I didn't think it was the problem. It wasn't. I then started focusing on the power wire, since I had previously found it was broken in 3 places on the right side door. I replaced a section of the wire; first a smaller section and then a larger section. In both attempts, I stripped back the removed section and they appeared to be in good condition, so I knew I hadn’t found the problem. I was planning on replacing the whole cable assembly, but I hated to spend the money (~ $70) without finding a problem. That’s when I stumbled upon your suggestion. It’s probably too early to tell if it’s fixed the problem, but it was cold when I tried it, and it seems to have worked. I’ll try and provide an update if it doesn’t. Thanks!
:biggrin:
 
#8 ·
I have this problem as well but only on the drivers side power sliding door. It pops open and don't go anywhere. I will try reseting the BCM on mine and see what happens. Hope that does something. thanks!
 
#9 ·
sliding doors

I have a different door problem with my 2001 TC. The drivers side sliding works fine if the drivers door is open. If you try to close the sliding door with the drivers door shut, it will close and immediately reopen. All other sliders work fine.

It makes no difference which button you use the results are always the same.

Any ideas?

thxs

slkfis
 
#10 ·
I tried this, but it didn't work for me. Went to dealer in Chattanooga this morning and asked them to reset the codes. They said this didn't work either. Dealer says I need new latches. Also claimed my driver's side door motor was bad, but I have just replaced both door motors two weeks ago. I noted to the technician that my doors slide much easier than the brand new showroom model!! So I guess I'll go for the new latches and hope this gets the door problem solved. There is a thread on here somewhere showing replacing the door latches solved one guy's problems.

R Martin
Chattanooga, TN
2001 T&C Limited 128K
 
#11 ·
#12 ·
Well, this is one of the problems I'm having with mine. The passenger side sliding rear door is poping open then nothing. I can manually open and close it then it works every time you push either button. It takes more force to open and close it maually than it should. We have to do this each time we use it. I'm going to try to reset the codes. I did however fix the back liftgate this week-end. It would not open at all unless you unlocked the gate with the key. I replaced the latch motor. Bought it at the dealer for $120.00. They wanted $270.00 to fix it which means I was going to give them $150.00 to put it on. That was too easy of a fix to let them do it. The main reason I had the van at the dealer was because the engine light came on. When I took it to my regular mech. to fix the leaking transmission I asked him to see about the engine light. I was told it pulled up a code that "something" was going on with the computer and I would have to take it to the dealer. Now the dealer has told me that I need to replace the computer at a cost of $810.00!!:Wow1: Its a good thing we like our van because I think I'm ready to push it over a cliff! It only has 85,000 miles on it. The two we had before this at least waited until well after 100,000 miles to start giving us trouble.
 
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