Wheel stud replacement



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Thread: Wheel stud replacement

  1. #1
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    Wheel stud replacement

    Morons at Crapy tire over tightened my lug nuts and I ended up having to drill one of the studs out. Going back to them tomorrow so they take the other 2 off for me. Was just wondering how hard is it to replace front studs? Do I have to take the wheel hub off or can I press the stud out while it's all together?

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  3. #2
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    You should beable to do it while it is on the vehicle. Depending on the model, most have a small tab either knocked out already or easy to pop off, to allow the stud to be removed from the back.

    DO NOT BEAT THE STUD OUT WITH A HAMMER.

    This can damage the wheel bearings. Press the stud out and the new one in. You can also PULL the new one in with a lug nut and some washers, but be sure any way you do it that it is the right size and the right length and is pulled in COMPLETELY before you install the wheel. Then TORQUE the lug nuts properly.
    Avatar: EconoVoyager Concept
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    As DSMLVR stated, don't hammer the studs out, like the friggin' Chrysler dealer did on my van. No damage yet (knock on wood), but still. It really gives you an uneasy feeling when the Chrysler technicians are doing it wrong.
    '11 Toyota Camry | 2.5/6AT | Sandy Beach
    '07 Chrysler T&C | 3.8/4AT | Cognac Crystal
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    I had this problem on a G2 van ... the idiots destroyed a thread. I got replacement studs, and tried to get them pressed out and new ones pressed in ... The shop assured me they had a press. HAHAHAHA!

    Ended up with a new hub assembly (the old one was whining a bit anyway so it was due for new bearings anyway), and when they gave me the old one, the old studs were out, but the new ones were mutilated so badly they couldn't go in if they tried to do it right.

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    Two hours later the morons replaced 3 studs and lug nuts and re torqued all the wheels. Hopefully they didn't hammer the studs out but if they did, they will be buying me a new hub as well.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Police Interceptor View Post
    Hopefully they didn't hammer the studs out but if they did, they will be buying me a new hub as well.
    I told the service manager of my local Chrysler dealer in a letter that I planned to never step foot in his shop again, that his guys repeatedly used incorrect techniques to service the vehicle, that his 5-star rating was obviously a farse, and that if the bearing ever did go bad, to not worry about me coming for retribution because I'd never return there anyway.

    Chrysler messed up a wheel stud: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php?t=2237

    Sears messed up a wheel stud: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php?t=2647
    Last edited by Hokiefyd; 02-26-2007 at 02:03 PM.
    '11 Toyota Camry | 2.5/6AT | Sandy Beach
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    It's such a simple thing, using a torque-wrench instead of the air gun. It takes only another minute or two of your time, but saves lots of aggrevated customers.

    A few years ago I had my brakes inspected at Sears Auto Center in a nearby town and that one inspection cost me nearly $700 in damages. Why? Not because my brakes were bad, they ended up being fine. But because of a combination of over-torqued lugnuts, ruined studs and warped rotors.

    It got so bad at one point that they mangled the studs on the front right wheel to the point where the lugnuts wouldn't come all the way off- they'd jam up near the top. This resulted in a phone call telling me that they can't get one of my wheels off.

    After screaming lots of obscenities, running over to the shop and seeing for my own eyes what I thought wasn't even possible, I called a flatbed and had to get the van towed to my trusty dealer which I should've gone to in the first place. This dealer, I know for a fact hand-torques the lugnuts as I'd tested that many times before.

    I told them what happened and the service manager didn't believe me. I waited as he put the van up on the rack and tried to get the wheel off. Minutes later he returned to the lobby wondering if I had the name and address of the place I'd taken the van to so that he never ever goes to it haha.

    All I told the dealer was "Just fix it, tell me if anything else is wrong- and PLEASE do not tell me how you got the wheel off, I don't want to know."

    Came back the next day with new rotors, studs, and an unstuck wheel.

    NEVER GO TO SEARS.
    1996 Chrysler Town & Country LX [My lovable Daily-Driver]
    2000 Chrysler Town & Country Limited [Yes, it's still around!]
    2000 Chrysler 300M [New kid on the block...]

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    I went to Sears in 1997 to get wheel bearing on rear passenger side replaced.
    They did a good job that time, but they ruptured the rubber boot on the driver side front ball joint with the $5 grease job. I told them to do it by hand, but I guess they used their power grease hose.
    In 1998 I went to Sears to get new struts. They left the rubber cushions off, so every pot hole in those garbage Alabama highways made a terrible noise when the front would bottom out.
    I went back a month later, I complained and told them to fix it.
    They said the strut top bearing plates needed to be replaced, I said OK.
    I picked van up around 4 pm, when I went out to van, I noticed the chrome lug nuts didn't look right, I went back in the store and complained some more.
    2 on the driver's side and 1 on the passenger side were overtightened so much that they had cracked the studs, leaving the nuts crooked.
    Another mechanic changed the 3 studs while I watched.
    I drove to a friends house, wondering what the metallic noise was under the hood, I open hood, they didn't bother putting the nuts on the three posts sticking out of the strut towers. The nuts were lying in the grove where the body panels are spot welded. I had my tools, installed nuts, crawled under van, checked to make sure parts were tightened.
    I drove to San Diego and back. The front brake pads were worn from that trip, I did the drivers side, no problem, the passenger side had three studs that were stripped, had to snap them off, replace them. Had to buy 10 new Chrome lug nuts that matched. I was glad that the weather was nice, so it wasn't hard to do.
    I too, have never gone to Sears for any thing ever again.

  10. #9
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    You know, as much as people say "never go to the dealer, they so rip you off there" I'm inclined to disagree. My opinion is that if you happen to find a dealer who honestly does excellent work, with quality customer service - keep going to them. I would rather pay a dealer's service department a bit more and have the assurance that the job was done correctly the first time, than pay less at some mom & pop shop that hired the just-got-ASE certified-but-has-no-experience mechanics.

    Now granted, it's hit or miss in terms of finding a good dealer. Some are great, some are not as evidenced by the previous posts. But seriously I have no problem paying $50 more per hour of labor at the dealer if I know it will save me the aggrevation of broken wheel studs and the like down the road. (And you probably won't even GET down the road with shops like Sears...)

    Don't get me wrong, I don't go to the dealer because of the whole "genuine OEM parts" business- I go for the little things like the use of hand-torque wrenches.
    1996 Chrysler Town & Country LX [My lovable Daily-Driver]
    2000 Chrysler Town & Country Limited [Yes, it's still around!]
    2000 Chrysler 300M [New kid on the block...]

  11. #10
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    It used to be that we had much better luck at Sears than anywhere else, including dealers. Hendrick Chrysler screwed up my wheel stud, but so did Sears. Crown Dodge installed a new power steering pump for me, but now I have to go back (just 2 months later) because it's making the same moaning noise.

    This is really the first issue we've ever had with Sears, but it makes me leery of returning there again. In fact, I'll give it to their customer service practices...they sold me a set of 4 tires and one didn't balance. Long story short, I took it to a Hunter GSP9700 machine and found the tire was out of round (something the Sears spin balancer couldn't detect). Sears gave me a new tire, and also gave me the 60 bucks back that I paid out of pocket to have the tires road force balanced. I had to ask for it, but they did it. I was impressed.
    '11 Toyota Camry | 2.5/6AT | Sandy Beach
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