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Removing Blower Motor -2003 Town & Country

74K views 15 replies 13 participants last post by  Scooter_b 
#1 ·
Hi. I am new to this forum. I own a 2003 Chrylser Town and Country and the blower motor went out last week. I was driving down the road and it just stopped completely. It will not work at all on any speed. The blower in the back seems to work just fine. I am trying to replace the blower motor and am having a heck of a time with the bolt that is in the back, up against the floorboard. It is very hard to reach and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to what I could use to remove it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
#2 · (Edited)
Are you sure it is the Blower? If you have not done it already, you could disconnect the blower plug and verify power is there when it should be on.
Also, I think that one has a cabin filter that can cause a blower motor to work harder if the filter is plugged. Maybe blew a fuse.
 
#4 ·
Same problem on my 03 T&C but it is the back blower that does not work. Local garage said it is the rear blower module (I think that was it, he said it so fast my head was spinning) and it would cost $220 from Chrysler Canada + labour costs to install it. This sound familiar to anyone here? I am a total newb to this stuff, not used to all the extras on this sucker compared to my old 87 Regal. :)
 
#5 · (Edited)
Removing 2003 Blower Motor Screw or bolt for Housing

Did you ever figure out how to get to that screw or bolt out? I have the same problem and I'm having a heck of a time trying to get to it, or even see it. I've tried pulling the carpeting back, and now there is padding underneath that I'm beginning to tear up just trying to reach where I think the screw/bolt might even be. I think I can feel it, but no clue how to get to it. I can't figure it out?
 
#15 ·
Accessing difficult bolt

Did you ever figure out how to get to this bolt/screw? I'm having the same problem.
use an 1/8" drive w/ about a 6" extension and a knuckle between the socket and extension. Locate the handle of your socket drive at the lower portion of the housing, front-center, the shaft up toward the bolt area, and the socket angled upward to the bolt. It works perfectly for removing and replacing that bolt.

Tearing the insulation seems to be a given, not a big deal.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Removing Blower Motor 2003 Town and Country Hard to get to Screw or Bolt

Well, after several hours I have finally gotten the blower motor out. As far as the hard to get to screw in the back it is indeed a major fuss. I ended up having to pull the carpet back along with the padding just to reach the bolt. I had to dig and grind and work several angles before I was able to get a socket on the puppy. It took me forever. I was finally able to reach it with a small socket, and I actually used a small extension on a small ratchet to get at it. I used an 8 socket, or a 5/32 I believe. I don't see any other way to get at this thing without tearing up some of your padding. Once I got that removed I then had to try and get the 3 screws out that hold up the blower motor inside the housing. That wasn't fun either. The lower housing is always in the way. The lower housing does flex quite a bit. You just have to keep working it and flexing it and finding the best angle to get at the three screws. You will need some decent lighting. I used extensions for a couple of screws. One screw remained, after taking out two screws. In retrospect I think I should have just loosened all three of them, because when I took two screws fully out it put some torque on the third screw and I couldn't get it out. I finally was able to put a small wrench on it. There is also this recirculation door inside the housing that moves around quite a bit. You can move it around to get to the screws. I've never done this before, so it was my quest to get it out. I'm not any professional mechanic either. Just want to save some money. Here are some other notes that may help you.

1. Don't use too hot of light under the dash. I used a very hot light and it started to melt my molding on the center console. I caught it just in time, and no major damage.

2. This lower housing cage thing was constanly in my way. From what I read in other forums it seemed like you left this part in and slipped the blower out through the flexing of the lower housing. But once I got the lower housing loose and the blower screws out I was able to slip the lower housing completely off. All I had to do was lift up the blower, out of the nozzle type thing it was seated in. Instead I struggled with the lower housing being in my way the whole time. I don't see why you can just loosen the lower housing, then the blower, lift up on the blower and slip off the cage. Maybe that is how it was supposed to work I don't know. You do have to slip the wire harness through the hole before doing this. Hope that makes sense.

3. As far as pinching that wire harness goes that was quite simple. I just squeezed it with a pair of flat ended needle nose.

4. I have no idea if I want to reinstall this thing. I probably will give it a shot, but with where all the screws were located I have no idea how well it will go back. Especially, that one screw in the back.

5. I will have to try and put my padding back as well as possible.

6. I had a quote for an hour of labor to install a resistor and blower motor. Perhaps I should have done that. It took me hours to get it out. But hey, it was my first time and success was mine. Just don't look forward to the hours it may take to put it back in. It may be well worth it for you to have it installed-especially if a shop is only quoting an hour at $55 for doing so.

Well, like I say, I'm no pro and I couldn't find anywhere on the net that discussed this in any length. There were plenty of people with questions on the blower motor and everybody wanted to tell them, "Are you sure it is your blower?" It may just be your resistor, and then no detail on the blower motor. My T&C has already blown two resistors, and my blower was making a loud roaring noise. The mechanic said I would have to replace the blower or I would keep blowing the resistor. Hope this all works out for me-and you!

Good luck, and hope this helps.
 
#8 ·
Removing Blower Motor 2003 Town and Country Hard to get to Screw or Bolt

Well, I am posting again. I did get the blower motor installed and also installed a new resistor and everything is up and running. I'm a happy camper so far. I've never done this before, but I'm pleased with the results.

Here is some more pointers.

The reinstall went a lot faster than taking the bloody thing out. It took me about 45 minutes to reinstall the blower and replace the resistor. Perhaps, as a first timer on this job, the next time would go quicker.

1. I did replace the resistor as well as the blower motor. I got a new resistor part (Mopar) from the Chrysler dealer. It cost around $30. It was a Mopar part. I'm glad I did because the dealer told me that the part had been redesigned. The new part had a rubber type sealant around some of the circuitry, and the plug in area was black, and looked just better made. The old part had a lot of spring like looking features that were exposed, and the plug in area was white. Here is the part number that I got for the resistor. 68029175AA

2. When you uninstall the lower housing, take the blower out, and take that one part off the lower housing which mine had a blue wire attached (I think it is called the recirculation actuator) you should end up with nine screws. 2 for the actuator, 4 for the lower housing, and 3 for the blower motor.

3. I purchased a used blower motor, (risky) on ebay motors. So for the blower and resistor I ended up spending around $70

4. My blower motor was making a "roaring" noise so it had to be replaced.

5. When I purchased my resistor from the dealer he printed out a service tip for me for the resistor it said this, "IMPORTANT: Once the new resistor is in place, turn the blower switch to high before supplying power to the circuit. Run the blower motor on high for at least two minutes before checking the lower speeds."

6. The service tip also gave some advice on checking for 12 volts at the resistor power supply which I did. I had to connect the wires in a few different spots before I found 12 volts but it was there.

7. My 2003 Town and Country did not have Automatic Temperature Control. The resistor for yours might be different if you have that feature.

8. I never did disable the negative power cable to the battery to disable the air bags. I probably should have looked into that better.

9. The back screw on the lower housing went in fine, but still difficult to get at. You really have to work to get at it. I used a socket, with about a 5" extension and nut driver wrench to get at it and some of the other screws.

10. I should have probably cleaned out my used blower motor, but I didn't. I forgot. Not going to worry about it now.

11. I did find some information on justanswer.com about replacing a blower on a 2002 Chrysler Town and Country. That did help.


Well, that is all I can think of for now. Hope it holds up for me. :ThumbsUp:
 
#9 ·
My blower motor appeared dead. I was working on it last weekend, and was unable to remove the last screw to take a look at the motor, but I bough a new motor TYC700070 anyway. Today I was able to remove the last screw very easily with a borrowed flexible screw driver (without cutting the pad or touching the HVAC module). However I found my old motor is still working fine after the fluffy insulation dust was removed from inside the motor. I am now ready to sell the new motor for $40 if anyone is interested (PM me). Thanks.
 
#10 ·
Finally got it out

after spending way too long upside down i got the front blower fan out. i thought that i might check if the fan was working or not by connecting the fan directly to the battery and it turned, fast.

So i reconnected the plug from the fan to the resistor and tried it again, but no spinning. then i tried swapping the front and rear blower relay just to check this again. still nothing on any speed setting

not being too sure about fans, i was wondering if this is misleading by connecting the fan directly to the battery. or does it still suggest the fan is not working.

so i'm stumped but prepared to accept that i should buy either a fan or both fan and resistor.

any thoughts whilst i watch lost???
 
#11 ·
Thorough diagnostic of 2005 T&C Blower motor and Resistor

Did you check the resistor module upstream? It may be burnt out.
Here's an excellent tread to troubleshoot the non-functioning blower/ resistor problem:

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/76x1-my-2005-chrysler-town-country-s-fan-for-the

After checking the usual fuses and relays, it narrows down to:

1. The a/c control head (least likely cause)
2. The blower motor (likely cause)
3. The blower motor resistor (most likely cause)

Easy to diagnosis, a PITA to pull that blower motor out.

Good Luck everyone!!! Not too hard of a project for the DIY'ers.
 
#12 ·
On my 2001 Chrysler T&C Ltd AWD, you can access that front, top mounted, screw from the top right speaker hole. I had to remove the pillar trim on both sides and then I could remove the speaker/defroster dash panel. Unscrew and remove the speaker. Then we used 1/4" drive flexible (spring) extensions with a couple of solid extensions with a deep 8MM socket. After digging out most of the insulation from around the top mounted front screw, one of us held the socket on the screw head while the other operated the ratchet. We have no plans to replace the screw. The other four should hold the Recirc Panel Door as it is very light. One other thing, the Recirc Door Panel can be punched out of the lower housing, it just snaps in. But be very careful as the three sided Recirc mount on the bottom of the lower panel is fragile.
 
#13 ·
I just recently replaced the blower motor in my '01 T&C with ATC. Tried everything I could think of for that last bolt against the firewall. Wasn't about to disassemble the upper dash to get at it though. As I had read on a post here, after a longer period of time than I would want to admit to in my attempts to get to the bolt, I took the frustrated DIYer's attitude and twisted and pulled unitl the rear ear portion broke off. Once I popped the recirculation door out of the lower housing, I found that a 1X3 section of the housing had broken off. Knowing that this was not an air-tight housing, it didn't worry me the least bit. Once the housing is re-installed, the broken piece fits the opening and is against the firewall so no one sees it and it has zero affect on operation. The hardest part of installing the new motor was getting the recirculation door to fit into the pivot point above the motor so that it moved smoothly and freely once the housing is re-fastened.

Side notes: Read on here about the cabin filter and replaced it as well. Cheap insurance to remove the possibility of a clogged filter from the equation. As for the motor, all the local parts stores had it (with the blower wheel) in stock for $100. Found it online and got it from RockAuto for $60 including shipping. Same part number but $40 cheaper.
 
#16 ·
I replaced my blower fan tonight and as most others have found, the job was a piece of cake... well OK, EXCEPT FOR ONE FRIGGEN SCREW!!! :blink:

I did happen to view this video on YouTube that I thought was well worth the time. Two tips that he gave concerning the recirculation door I thought were extremely helpful and something that I would have been clueless about if I hadn't seen the video: Use a tool from the bottom to remove the recirculation door from the lower fan cover; Position the recirculation door toward the right side before reattaching the actuator to the fan assembly.

Another tip you might find useful anytime you reattach something back to a plastic boss, Place the screw into the hole and then slowly turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until the screw "jumps" or "dips". Once this happens you can then proceed to turn the screw clockwise and it will now re-thread itself into the same threads that already exist in the plastic without having to cut a new thread. This can be critical if you are constantly removing a screw out of an assembly and you don't want to eventually strip out the hole...
 
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